post them homemade handlebars here, i need ideas. so please go right ahead and spam this thread with pics
search, I know there are loads on here.
I’ve seen a couple of them too, but I do think it’s a very good idea to collect all those pictures in one thread. That way people can get inspired a little more quickly than otherwise.
Now playing: Pink Floyd - Money
these, from this post
these, from here
these, from here
these from here
do any of those help?
i know they are on here and i did use the search bar it just i thought it would be great to have them on one thread
Here’s my coker handlebar: JC Coker Handle (revision Beta 3)
The links in that thread to my gallery have changed. New link to my gallery: Miscellaneous Stuff
GB4, or 04 KH?
Mine? It’s a GB4 frame.
So my T7 snapped today, and I don’t think I’ll be getting another one before Roger improves the design once more. I think he should at least put them on sale now because of all the major flaws they have. Offering a free reinforcement would be even better though. Instead he keeps selling them as if there was nothing wrong with them. As a matter of fact,
- They are all crooked,
- they all break at the same spot (mine lasted for about 7 months of light use) and
- the bottle cage mounts come loose after the first couple of kilometers.
- The powdercoating sucks too, by the way. And
- it is too heavy.
To sell that piece of crap for 70$/50€ as the most useful addition to touring unicycles without any warning is quite impertinent IMHO. The text “It has been developed over 1000s of miles of riding” even misleads people to believe it would actually last for 1000s of km… Well, unfortunately it doesn’t. This might sound as if the T7 was all bad which it isn’t. It’s just very faulty the way it is made now. Without all the problems mentioned above it would definitely be the cat’s ass.
I really wish Kris Holm would come up with a straight aluminum handle that offers some sort of adjustability. Maybe with a possibility to put aerobarish things on too. It would be a great addition to his KH36s… Putting a T7 on those is a shame anyways because the colors don’t match. While I’m at it, it should be either black or silver, not blue, so it would work with any frame color you choose…
I hear ya, bro
It’s not a horrible design, but they’re underbuilt, overpriced and poorly fabbed. It’s made like an entry-level touring product, and should be priced as such. It’s not hard to design a better handle for mass production. I’m not saying they should cease to exist, but fab it better and sell it for $30, come out with a stronger, lighter design to fit the current price point.
any one have tuts on how to make them i do no there is tuts on here but i dont have a “spare” bike
lots of pictures.
corbin wow thanks you got me some ideas
This is one way to strengthen an existing rail adaptor or T-7, but the time to cut and weld the six plate steel gussets was a real pain and makes fitting the seat post and seat more difficult. That said, it makes has made the rail adaptor much stiffer than the stock adaptor.
This picture shows my road Coker’s modified Wyganowski handle. In my approach, I mounted the handle as low as possible. Actually, I didn’t have a choice as it was made to fit the frame rather than the seat post. I bought it used from a guy who was shorter than me.
- I put bar-ends on what was intended as a front bumper, creating my “aero” position. It’s only semi-aero, because I don’t feel comfortable in an extreme, pavement-eating position.
- The regular T-handle comes up near my seat bumper, as the basic handle for upright riding.
- I also have access to the built-in seat handle for those steep climbs.
- The bottle cage fits a large bottle, except when I had longer cranks on there and had to lower the seat. Then Camelbak only!
- I used the bungee cords on the back to bring a backpack of clothes to and from work. Not the most secure attachment on that rear bumper area, but it worked.
That handle has served me well, and still does. I’ve tried the T7 and find it in too neutral a position to work for me. Too high for any aerodynamics, and too low to lean on, to take some weight off the seat. It’s just kind of there. The only thing I worry about with my Wyganowski is how it’s held together with two little bolts. If one of those breaks while I’m in my aero position, it could be ugly!
Here’s a pic of my set up (The Florian Green). Wish I could take credit for it, but the high praise goes to Pete Perron. Of course, these handlebars require that you get Pete to make you one of his “V” frames.
I really like these aero bars. They allow me to reach out farther forward. Thanks to the “seat post” mount there is no flex in them when I pull up on them while climbing hills. I set the “seat post” clamp (really the handlebar clamp) just loose enough so that when I UPD the handlbars can move enough not to break. As you can see from the torn tape at the tip of the aero bars, I’m not a stranger to UPDs. Another thing I like about these is that they are narrow enough not to bang up my thighs when I do go cartwheeling off the front. There’s space enough to mount my b*ke computer. When I’m riding at night I wrap a head lamp around the bars and I’ve got a head light.
Just doing my part to encourage all of you welders to get wild.
Oh how I miss Florian Green! Maybe he and The Red Menace can roll on down the road together some day!
As for the handles (and without voting for mine), I still think JC takes the design cake.
Here is my ultralight version. Actually shaved 2.5 lbs with a Wallis base and aluminum bars over stock Coker seat, no bars
That looks good. I think I may want to have someone build me something like that.