Yeah, I’ll play around with the air pressure. The reason I pumped it up that much was because I had a longish commute on flat tarmac to get to the head of the trail. So I also put the pedals in the 125mm holes for quicker spinning. Then when I got to the trail I didn’t feel like fiddling with that weird presta valve (only having used my hand pump with the normal valves) and decided to try the uphill with high pressure (maybe it wasn’t quite as high as 40psi). For the downhill part I just wanted to give it a try in high pressure and it worked pretty well also in the more technical sections. I might put in a regular schrader(?) valve inner tube later, although I would have to enlarge the hole in the rim then.
So I’m sure I could have had better suspension with less air but actually it was pretty nice, a little more like a 29er ride. The disc brake is nice but I definitely expected it to take less power to brake. Maybe that can be adjusted?
The KH cranks have a little more Q but I think that can be a good thing because it reduces rubbing on the seat and on the frame.
While I haven’t tried the current Nimbus gel I thought the shape of the foam was different than the KH FFR, isn’t it?
I measured them, outside dimension, pedal insert to pedal insert:
Conundrum, Nimbus Isis Hub, 4mm crank spacers, 165 Moments ~7.5"
Oregon, Nimbus Isis Disc Hub, 2mm crank spacers, 170 QuAX Chromoly ~8.5"
The Nimbus Disc hub is 25mm wider than the Nimbus Isis Wide. With the Nimbus cranks having less Q, I’m betting the width woudl be even less, maybe 1/2" in difference. I like wider, it feels more stable.
I’ll get ya picture when I have time. I did notice that, though the Oregon seems really wide in the frame, I have yet to hit my legs, whereas on the Conundrum I hit my legs often enough. The rounded tubing seems to be a little more leg friendly.
I think the pressure was a little over 30psi yesterday. Today I dropped it to about 25ish and went for another great muni ride in the poring rain.
The tire was better in the rocky and rooty stuff. And I think the brake was better today as well, maybe it had had to be broken in first.
It was a very fun ride inspite of the awful weather. Wet roots and rocks are still pretty slippery, even with the Larry. But overall the Oregon performed very well in all kinds of conditions. I’m glad I got it.
The spooner doesn’t actually fit the Helix lever but it kind of works. I think I’ll try to make some DIY solution for it.
Well it got here yesterday and that wheel and tire combo is almost comically gigantic. Set up with a KH saddle on a shadow base with a modified Titec H-bar handle and K1 cranks it actually weighs in just a hair over my Hunter with a Minion 2.7 DH tire and surprisingly does not feel the slightest bit sluggish.
It is a seriously FUN ride. I only ride a few times a month on average and am adequate to mediocre in the skills department, but this thing makes you feel like you can ride over anything. From one 4 mile maiden voyage I am already accustom to it’s handling and not only is the Hunter destined for some dust gathering but it may take the place of one or two of my weekly mtb rides.
Also, if you think you got looks and comments while MUniing before, the Oregon is quite the attention getter.
Out in colorado riding and boarding for the next couple weeks, really enjoying the oregon, great ride for big terrain, makes things easier for sure.
I upgraded to a hayes 180mm disc and was able to make it work with a few washers to space the calier out from the frame, running a shimano m575 caliper.
I’m sorry to say that my Oregon frame has passed away yesterday at the very tender age of only 2 months and 3 weeks.
As you can see on the pics it broke through at the end of the crown right by the little hole. There is a large crack on the opposite side at the same height too, which would have broken through simultaneously if I had been doing a drop or a jump or stairs.
I had taped the front legs of the fork in order to keep the paint unharmed by my legs so I couldn’t see the cracks before it broke.
What I did notice was a creaking sound while going uphill and downhill. I thought it was something to do with the bearings or the cranks…
So if you have an Oregon that makes a creaking sound be sure to examine the frame for cracks in that area.
Needless to say I am very disappointed that this frame has obviously not been properly tested on technical DH trails, which is what it should be used for as Roger and others confirmed before I ordered mine. So once again I have been sold something very promising and great looking that is still in the beta stage and flawed to say the very least.
Now I’m sure it is under warranty and I could get a replacement from UDC but there is no way that I could trust this frame design for the mildly technical riding I’m doing ever again. So what can I do? This is the only frame that fits this wheelset with the LM, Larry and disc brake. I don’t have the money to get a Triton frame and Mountainuni disc set either. So it seems I threw that money out the window unless there will come an improved frame as a replacement from Nimbus.
By the way the Oregon came with a 160mm disc which didn’t fit properly so I had to remove the left bearing to be able to remove that disc and replace it with a 180mm one. Of course I also had to file off the edges that were left on the brake pads from the too small disc. And I could go on and on about my attempts of bleeding the brake and all that but who cares. I spent way too much time and money on this piece of crap now and I am now left with a broken frame and no good options in sight.
One thing is clear though: This frame is NOT fit for actual muni riding as I understand it. It should be pulled from the UDCs and redesigned with stronger and thicker tubing. The way it is now it is very dangerous and way underbuilt.
I have forwarded your pictures on directly to the manufacturer. This is something new and the first failure of it’s kind.
It is not fair to say this design has not been tested on muni… it has! The oregan was tested for over 9 months before it came on to the market and the basic design has been used on the nightrider for over 7 years now. I will get to bottom of why this happened, it should not have.
The brake issue was known and you had one from the first batch and you should have been sent a replacement 170mm disk that fitted correctly by your supplier for free. Please contact them with regard this. The brakes also bleed very easily, I have done this several times and they are some of the easiest ones I have found to do, this is an odd comment.
Roger
I’m with Roger, no problems with my Oregon nor have I see any reports of other frames breaking, and since it’s still under warranty…
UDC is a stand up company, they’ll fix or replace as needed, so I wouldn’t be suprised if there’s already a frame on the way to your house 
I love the Oregon
BTW, I was also an early adopter and had to do some brake work. I spoke with Josh the day after the Oregon arrived, I had stayed up late that night working on brake mods, and he had a replacement disc (larger) at my door the next day. I have worked out my own brake set up using a Shimano caliper.
Thanks for your reply Roger! I do appreciate your work very much and I really don’t mean to offend anyone involved in the development of the Oregon. After all I bought it as early as I could because it looked so great and had very promising features.
But it seems to me that it has been released prematurely rather than after a period of extensive testing, something that I have experienced way too often with many other companies. So I guess my lesson is to not always jump into new things as an early adopter but to wait and see how it works for others.
By the way I did get the other disc for free from municycle.com (their service is usually outstanding) but only after calling them and asking about it. I don’t think anybody from UDC actually officially informed people that the 160mm disc didn’t fit. Or if they did they managed to hide that info very well. I actually almost bought another disc myself but then I called MDC and got it for free.
The problems with bleeding the brake may have been bad luck and/or lack of experience on my side but I eventually got it right after a couple of tries and a lot of leaked oil. But that’s nothing major. But then two days later the frame broke through. Bummer.
The thing is I don’t know how this could be a manufacturing fault rather than a design problem? So how could a new frame with the same materials and proportions be any different from this one? I would be very worried about it breaking in the middle of a great muni ride. This could be very harmful to someone else in other circumstances (which is why I am posting this on the forums right away rather than sending e-mails back and forth with UDC and MDC).
My own conclusion is that the front legs must be too thin to withstand the strong forces that come into play on rocky muni rides with occasional drops (less than 1m in my case) and UPDs. The little holes probably are where the crack started and worked itself outwards until it broke all the way as the crack on the other leg shows. Maybe if the holes weren’ there it would be less prone to breaking? One more thing that is different on this frame than the nightrider is that it is much wider at the crown, so that might explain something here.
I actually remember now when it started creaking and it was on the steeper uphills rather than the downhills. So it must have something to do with the strong forces involved when you pull on the seat and stand up cranking up the hill at full force. This may put more pressure on those little holes in the crown than going downhill.
So once again I’m sorry if I have caused any hard feelings but I really mean to help getting this problem solved and prevent people from getting hurt in an accident with this frame.
Currently I can not be sure why they have failed. lets see what the manufacturer says about it. It may be the holes and it could be the width… or a combination. The tubing should be strong enough, the nightrider should be rougher on the frame than the Oregan.
I have arranged for a replacement from sent from the manufacturer to Roland for you.
We may need the frame, so don’t dispose of it. This is the first instance of this kind of failure so we do need to investigate.
We do tend to fix problems as soon as we find them and things like the brake are best dealt with off the forum. On the day we got the containers we identified the problem. We also realised that it would not prevent the disc being used but would cause uneven wear. We then got replacement disc’s airfreighted from Taiwan. I can only guess you did not get it immediately is that there was a little delay in that process, my appologies about that.
Roger
Thank you Roger, I appreciate that! I have the frame here and can send it somewhere for further investigation. Roland and Petra are on a vacation until the 4th of September AFAIK. So I didn’t contact them yet about the frame.
Keep hold of the frame for the moment, this kind of thing when you are dealing with different time zones always takes longer than you think it should to get answers. I will get in touch.
Roger
The Oregon
I like it !!!
I am wondering if those vent holes are even necessary if there are ones down by the bearing caps? Could be a pretty easy design fix for the next batch if they don’t need to be there.
Yes maybe the ones by the bearing holders would be sufficient. But beefing up the tubing would be a good idea too, I think. The added weight wouldn’t matter that much. Strength is a lot more important IMHO.
I’ve always wondered about the strength of my nightrider, but I’ve never had any trouble with it. I must admit it bugs me that the supports that connect the front and back crowns aren’t symmetrical . . . not even close.
Is it like that on the oregon?
Anyway, I hope all this gets resolved. : ) It could just be a fluke, and I hope so, but even if it isn’t all the Unicycle.com crew will be sure to take care of it and make things right, they always have for me. Trust me, I’ve given them my fair share of hardship with all the mods I wanted. Luckily I was able to go by the shop.
One thing is for sure, unicyclists sure don’t like their equipment failing. : P It always gets posted with a raging review just after something goes wrong, though it can be frustrating when your equipment has issues.
I met a biker the other day, he rides a Fischer Rig 29er. We started talking about gear, he mentioned that he’d had some frame problems: “This is the fourth frame they’ve (Fischer) given me, not sure how long this one will last before it breaks”.
Breaking gear sucks, but if you are the kind of person who must be the first on the block to have the newest and best, then it’s not unreasonable to expect some problems as it goes with the territory.
Now, if you start breaking frames like the guy I mentioned above, then yeah, it might be a little more than you deserve 
Speaking of which, I could tell you all about my broken hub problems…
I took a look at Munirocks picture of the broken Oregon frame and compared it to my Oregon’s frame. The break seems to be at or very near the vents (if that is what they are). The holes seem to be placed in an odd place in regards to structural integrity. I am not a structural engineer, but it does seem strange that they were placed at that point.
Are these “vents” designed to allow condensation to escape? If so, then wouldn’t the top of the seat post allow for this as well?
If the vents placement can cause possible frame failure, couldn’t a welded and vented plated be placed over them? In this way, the vent would be intact and structural integrity would be improved.
I have been working in the commercial printing industry for over thirty years and it is not uncommon for us to “improve” on the original manufactures designs. I am, of course not doubting the skills of the Oregon design team. I am very attached to my green beast. I just think that sometimes it is best to fix something before it breaks.
What do you guys think?
the holes are there so that when the frame is hardend it dosnt blow the welds. if it were a seald tube the air inside would heat up and cause the parts to deform and / or rupture which isnt good the holes let the air escape when it expands
thats my understanding of it anyway so correct me if you think its somthing else
I got to try an Oregon recently and found it to be more nimble than expected. It’s heavy, obviously, but turning and fine adjustments aren’t that difficult considering the monster truck wheel. I also noticed that it stands the same height as my 29"er. Not sure why it’s called a 26" uni.