It sounds like you just happened to find a combination that plays well with the D-Brake.
I too had a combination that was playing well, but then a couple hard-rides later the same brake issues surfaced. As far as I’m concerned disc-brakes should be dead-simple. Having to “fine tune” them after every other ride is a joke… and that should have been my first sign that the D-Brake was a problem.
The D-Brake was the root of my problems,
and anything else I did was simply a “band-aid” fix.
Now that I ditched the D-Brake I expect the next time I’ll touch my brakes will be when i need to replace my pads.
(I’ll update this thread if otherwise).
I don’t know any meassures but I begin to believe that it is not strong enough as I know already 3 people that broke their oregon frame: GreeKarl, digger and munirocks
Don’t know any detailed Informations. They just asked for an Oregon frame in the german search-trade-offer thread. One broke at one of the drilled holes.
Maybe you ask them directly: GreeKarl digger munirocks
UDC says CrMo tubular steel. The most common frame material is 25CrMo4 so its probably this.
@munimag: for me it looks as if the crack started at a spot of local hardness increase caused by welding. Could be caused by false heat threatment. 25CrMo4 needs postheating after welding.
That looks to be the very first frame-design, when they had issues with the vent-hole placement. I’m curious if they beefed-up the wall thickness, used better metal, or simply changed the locations of the vent-holes to improve on the strength of the frame.
That’s a great solution Josh! however, before starting to weld on my nicely powdercoated frame, I thought of a different solution to reduce the resonance problem with the D’brake: works exellent untill now!
Just wondering what’s the smallest tyre the rim will support? I really like the Oregon but sometimes I won’t want it for just pure downhill so was thinking of putting a smaller tyre on for the cross country aspects. Thoughts?
