Nimbus Oregon Review - pros/cons

I’ve put my Oregon through a lot,
and just recently sold my KH24 (which i loved dearly).

So I figured now is a good time to type up a review of this beast of a unicycle.

Spoiler: It’s one hell of a beast!

let’s get right to it:


- Dwarfs other MUnis
After any decent seat time on the Oregon, other MUnis may start to feel like dainty little toys. At first I thought this "macho"ness would begin to wear-off, but it’s been many rides and it’s still going strong.

- Super-smooth riding
The fatty of a tire soaks-up all sorts of little things that would normally send jitters up your seat post and into your testicles.

- Eats rocks
The larger diameter, and fat tire allow this MUni to roll over things that were otherwise non-rollable.

- Flies
The massive air-volume in this tire allows for phenomenal compression/flight. If you hit any ramps, this MUni will likely launch you further and higher.

- Super Traction
More rubber to the ground = more traction. Meaning: less slips and less “burn-outs”.

- Lots of tire / rim options
There are already a substantial amount of tire / rim options currently available that would fit this MUni. Fat bikes are growing in popularity… and that means even more tire / rim options are bound to pop-up.


- Harder to control
Noobs need not apply. This MUni can have a mind of it’s own sometimes and you need to know how to tame the beast.

- Ride characteristics change drastically with tire-pressure
No big deal if you take the time to dial-in the ideal pressure, but if you aren’t dialed-in then it can be Mr Toad’s Wild Ride.

- Heavier (brakeless KH24 = 14.6lbs. Nimbus Oregon (w/brake) = 17.4lbs.)
For the most part, the additional 2.8lbs isn’t a big deal. But when it comes to long up-hill climbs you’d likely get further on a brakeless KH24. But who buys a MUni for long uphill climbs anyway?

- Harder to travel with
Takes up more trunk-space, and requires a larger bag for airplane travel. The MUni still flies without extra fees if you get the right bag (Easton Double Wheel Travel Bag).

- Expensive
Be prepared to spend ~$1,000, and replacement tires will run you ~$150.

- Skinnies are more challenging
Perhaps it’s obvious, but skinnies are trickier w/ a fatter / larger diameter tire.

- Doesn’t like landing w/ sideways movement.
The larger tire folds more on sideways landings. Pinch-flatting is possible in such scenarios. As an added bonus, when the tire is squished sideways like that it will quickly re-bound from such a strange landing. If you land with sideways movement, expect this tire to push-back a little.

- I experienced initial brake-problems.
And it was driving me absolutely crazy. Josh @ UDC says my brake issues were not experienced by others, but he was willing to work with me to find a solution to my problem. I now run a Magura brake caliper + disc instead of the stock Tektro. I still use the stock Tektro brake lever though.

Final thoughts:

- The Nimbus Oregon is my go-to MUni.
(it’s now my only MUni)

It’s only a matter of time before similar (“light-weight”) fat-tire MUni’s like the Nimbus Oregon become the norm. I’m looking forward to seeing future 26" Fatties.

I’ll be rockin’ this MUni till I find something better.

now for some action pics:
(taken from Tom Holub’s Flickr account, which is made awesome by his awesome photography skills)

link to Tom’s blog:


Nice air! – or is that helium?

  • Harder to control
    Noobs need not apply.
    This MUni can have a mind of it’s own sometimes and you need to know how to tame the beast.

I will argue this point. The large volume tire rides over smaller roots, rocks, whatever that makes a noob stumble on a smaller volume tire. I see your pictures and you are FAR above my level of riding. I have a Lou on my Oregon and love it. Just cushes over everything. It made riding off road believable rather than just frustrating. I say “fatties now make it possible for all to enjoy”

Is this the Oregon or the Oregon+ Josh?
I’m a born-again unicyclist but am already looking at getting a 29". I have a 20" (which I am moreeee than happy with) but anything over half a mile and I’m a broken man, lol.

That’s the 26" Nate… not the Plus that has the Knard ;):wink:

Well, I’ll be jiggered. I kinda guesstimated it from the top photo. Obviously I didn’t take into account that MASSIVE tyre!!!

Cheers for the clarification fugsworth :slight_smile:

I can’t tell from the pics, but which Surly rim is that? If it’s the LM “Lite” 32h or the “rabbit hole”, my question is, because they have huge cutouts and are essentially single walled, can they withstand big drops as well as the solid double walled LMs? I checked the Surly website, and it appears they do not make the solid rims any longer. Thanks.

beach riding and corrosion

As a new Oregon with Marge lite owner I am also curious about the rims strength, not that I will be doing anything as extreme as Terry or Josh.

Also with all the pictures of rideing fatties on the beach I started thinking, that looks like a blast but what about salt corrosion? Is just hosing it off good enough when you are done? Won’t the salt hang out in the rim cutouts and the brake caliper? Maybe I should stick to dirt or maybe I’m just paranoid.
I love this thing. Like a friend said “Its like riding a couch.”

If you are really concerned about the salt water I have used to protect the inside of the frame. Other then this I just give it a good wash after I come off the beach. I’ve got about 1500 miles on my Oregon and it still looks like new. Have fun and ride it often. If it rusts out I’d bet it’s because it sat unattended in a garage for an extended period of time. Get outside and ride!

Thanks Gear. Your comments in the Oregon 29+ thread greatly influenced my decision to get the Oregon. In that thread you said you got about 1200 miles out of your first tire that looks like a Larry in the picture. How is the Nate wearing?

The Surly Nate tire is awesome. Highly recommend it. It does not have the auto steer that the Larry had. Looks like I have about 300 miles on the Nate. Shows a little wear but still plenty of knobs. This tire rocks. I should have switched to it sooner.

Oregon “Stealth ll”
(aka: “Nightshade”) :sunglasses:

one more:

- The D-Brake design
After many attempts to fix the initial brake issues I was experiencing (horrendous noise, and vibrations that would slowly numb your feet right off the pedals) I have come to conclusion that the D-Brake design is flawed.

It is my opinion that the cantilevered design of the D-Brake flexes and introduces resonance.
I came to this conclusion after trying/replacing:

  • 3 sets of new/different brake-pads
  • 3 different rotors
  • 1 completely different brake (that Josh at UDC was kind enough to send me)
  • 2 D-Brakes (thinking there may have been a manufacturing defect I was experiencing in the first one)
    and the problem persisted through all of that. Some of the above attempts to solve my problems managed to hide it for 2-3 rides. But sure enough the problem would arise again.

The solution:
Go buy one of these:

Then weld it on:

problem solved.

hope that helps.


My first Oregon had a frame mount, I also had a frame mount on my Nightrider. They are better, but UDC had trouble with consistent placement in the factory, so they developed the D Brake. The D Brake works fine, still ride on my 650b/29" and 36er.

Not to devolve this thread into a d-brake discussion but my Oregon with stock Tektro Arugila Sub squealed like a banshee and I tried sanding pads and rotor, numerous caliper alignment adjustments, etc, etc. I even tried a different Tektro Arugila Sub from an Oracle - same noise and vibration. Then I tried a different d-brake adapter - same noise and vibration.

Then I tried a Shimano XT brake+caliper. All noise and vibration was gone :slight_smile: This is with the original Tektro rotor.

Disc brakes have sooooo many dynamics at play and usually it’s not just one single thing … but in my case it was.

It sounds like you just happened to find a combination that plays well with the D-Brake.

I too had a combination that was playing well, but then a couple hard-rides later the same brake issues surfaced. As far as I’m concerned disc-brakes should be dead-simple. Having to “fine tune” them after every other ride is a joke… and that should have been my first sign that the D-Brake was a problem.

The D-Brake was the root of my problems,
and anything else I did was simply a “band-aid” fix.

Now that I ditched the D-Brake I expect the next time I’ll touch my brakes will be when i need to replace my pads.
(I’ll update this thread if otherwise).

Love the Oregon. Hate the D-Brake.

What dimension / diameter is the tubing of the Oregon frame? Can anybody tell or be so friendly to measure it and post it?

That would be very nice :wink:

^^ The tubing is 1/2" OD ^^

I don’t know any meassures but I begin to believe that it is not strong enough as I know already 3 people that broke their oregon frame: GreeKarl, digger and munirocks

Pics? Thread-Links? Rider-Weight? Scenarios?
I’d like to see the fail point and know how it happened.