Doh - yes, I see that now, and that seems like a good idea.
It would be interesting to know if using a bolt with a thicker head reduces the amount that the shifting rod gets in the way of the allen key - would be helpful if so.
1 Like
In the past I have used an approach of holding the shifting rod out of the way from the other side. I pushed the rod in as far as it would go from the side I was working on before even attaching the crank, then placed a suitably big washer over the end of the rod protruding on the other side, one that would catch on the axle end / crank face on the other side. I then screwed in the shifting button (without its grub screw) on the far side until it butted up against this washer, thus holding the rod firmly in the pulled over position. After that I didn’t need to apply any special inward force on the allen key when tightening the bolt on the side I was working on, as the rod was no longer in the way.
3 Likes
Hub arrived. Installed in a Hatchet frame, Upgraded to 203mm rotor. Jones C-Rim 29" with 6mm offset. Spokes are only 2mm difference in length left to right. Maxxis Hookworm tire easily spreads to rim with plus with almost completely round profile. inflated to 40psi.
Notes on Fit: No interference between spokes and frame or caliper. No spacers needed on the disk. Hole in Hatchet frame was centered, so simply drilled out the hole to diameter.
I also had no issues with tightening the crank bolts. Applied a drop of assembly lube, and used a machinist grade 3/8 drive hex bit. Hex key fit in the crank bolt was very snug. (i.e. don’t use a cheap wrench).
Wheel build near fail: The Jones 622 rim has a 584 ERD, meaning the spoke nipples are very deep inside the hollow rim, and there are no openings in the rim other than spoke or valve holes. I managed to drop 3 nipples inside the rim. 3 hours spent unlacing, then playing shake the pennies out of the piggy bank slot. Tip: Thread a spoke into the head of the nipple, then use the extra spoke to thread through the rim to the real spoke.
4 Likes
Been there 
I learnt from the ParkTool rim lacing tutorial video and used a cut toothpick for that purpose, worked like a charm.
That’s a 125mm hub, right? I’m not surprised it worked well. Issues should happen on big wheels (36er) with narrow hubs (100mm) and large calipers (such as Hope V4).
1 Like
BTW, it would be great to start a list including which builds went well and which builds failed with these new hubs. E.g.: Braus/Alchemist 36" carbon rim, 100mm inboard-disc Schlumpf hub and Hope Tech4 V4 don’t work together. The caliper is too large. However, a Shimano Saint brake works perfectly - I guess it’s the same for all Shimano brakes due to their geometry.
1 Like
Sounds like a good idea!
Can I just check - does the V4 not work even with the new hub modifications? Or are you referring to the previous ones supplied?
I am curious if you got your 32h 100mm Braus wheel working 
I’m referring to the latest version of the hub. We still miss a few millimeters for that build to work.
Now I’ve changed the brake for a Shimano Saint, it works great 
Why did I have an unused Shimano Saint brake?
On my G36, I had a Shimano SLX 7120 brake. These last days, I have done a few cols (Col de la Chambotte going to and coming back from the lake). During the downhill parts on the road, I have felt the brake was having a strange behavior. Once I came back home, I have had a look at it, and…
I had to file it for working on my BrakeFast. I apparently put too much effort on it and it finally broke 
As I need this uni for my next challenges (training for the Mont Ventoux Unicycle Challenge on Saturday and going for a week of uni-packing on Monday), I instantly ordered a new brake. As I have felt the SLX 7120 to be too weak for such a fast wheel, I went for a Shimano Saint brake. When I tried to install the latest, it seemed to me I had to file it, too. It may be due to the geometry of the brake. The piece that is screwed to the caliper adapter is really next to the pistons and the brake pads. On the Hope Tech4 V4, this piece is a bit offset, so that there is more clearance with the disc. See below picture (I may add a Hope Tech4 V4 picture later on, so you can compare both).
So, I was in the following situation:
- a G36 with a brake that doesn’t fit because the offset was too big;
- a G29 with a brake that doesn’t fit because the offset was too small.
So… I switched both brakes and they now work great!
I’m really pleased with my new Schlumpf hub, it feels really good. Even better than the “old” ones. I’m now tempted to replace my G29 hub with a new one… That would cost a lot for not a lot of improvements, though 
2 Likes
This seems to work
We may have to add the rim model, too. This may change things depending on the offset of the rim and the ERD.
1 Like
That’s super interesting!
I just tested a Tech3 V4 on my G29er set up and it has a decent amount of clearance. Using 2 x spacers and CX Rays and the rim has an off set.
But still very curious to understand how the jump to a 36” wheel with the Braus rim makes this not work… unless on the newly “fixed” hubs you can only use 1 x spacers and don’t have the option for more.
Curious….
Very hard to photograph but the space feels decent and with this wheel I could go to 3 x spacers to get more room but I’d need the countersunk rotors and bolts for that.
1 Like
But it’s an (3mm?) offset rim right? The Braus is symmetrical (and obviously larger diameter)
3 Likes
The “fixed” hub is delivered with a single set of spacers, so we don’t really have the option anymore. Here, the issue probably lies in “how vertical the spokes are”. On small and medium wheels, the spokes are less vertical than on big wheels.
The symmetrical rims may also present more issues, as noted by @Hammer.
2 Likes
Thanks both!
Totally - and I do get that the bigger wheels spokes are going to be trickier to get clearance from.
It’s probably more that the clearance looks on par with my E4 which seems to be a smaller caliper so it got me wondering more on “why”… but I guess even an E4 brake may not clear on a Braus G36er….
2 Likes
Do people know if the silver surface - going to call it the bearing cover / protector is designed, supposed to rotate round with the cranks’ movement?
I’m pretty sure it is OK but wondered how things behave for those using extra spacers verses those who haven’t.
Also have people notice the hub giving off some small black specs / particles around bearings. I know oil will seep out but for the black dusty / specy stuff I hope that is just the hub’s material bedding in.
I have the same 2 behaviors on my #0821 hub. Probably no issue there
1 Like
Received my spare axle bolts from Florian and confirmed the threads are M14x1.0.
I also ordered and received the M14 bolts you linked earlier and confirmed they are also M14x1.0 threads. I went ahead and drilled thru holes in them on a drill press (first with a 1/8" carbide bit, followed by a 1/4" bit, both at 450rpm). Hole size seems to match up with the Schlumpf axle bolt.
I plan on changing the cranks later this week. Will update once I’ve tried using these as pretightening bolts.
5 Likes
That’s so cool to see!
Thanks for the update. I ordered my set back on June 3rd. Still not arrived so I suspect stuck in Brexit shipping nightmare.
I really hope they work for your crank install. Seems like a much beefier bolt than the stock ones
Keep us posted!
1 Like
Small revelation for me on shifting with these hubs / shifting in general.
I recently found that shifting on my G24 was remarkably easy in terms of the button being felt by my shoe heel - getting that reassuring little click-click before a slight inward pressure having the hub effortlessly shift.
I was trying to mirror this on my G29er as up until now I presumed it was a psychological block with the bigger wheel.
But as I put the new G24 “technique” into practice it felt like the G29’s button wasn’t feeling willing to move inwards to shift high.
When I got off - I tested shifting it by hand and it did kind of feel stiff but it also looked like it could be sticking slightly further out than on my G24.
When I got home I checked and the G24’s buttons were a lot easier to slip into a change by hand - and they were ever so slightly further in to the crank (still with inward play).
I adjusted my G29’s button inwards a smidge and it also started to shift much more easily.
What I realised is that having the buttons further in / more flush actually makes shifting easier, not harder.
I am sure the instinctive belief here would be it would make finding / hitting the button harder, but when for me when the button was a bit too far out - when I go to hit it, I am pushing down on the side of the button and it jars more. With my G24 the reason shifting was easier was due to the button more naturally taking the force of my heel pushing down/in as a kind of sliding force and this was what makes the shift feel buttery smooth.
In all honestly this is probably well known by many riders but I had previously pictured the only reason you’d put the button further in is to avoid accidental shifts, as in make it hard.
I am happy to now realise the opposite is true - it makes it easier (but I get it still makes it safer for accidentally hitting the button when you don’t want to!)
Hope someone finds this useful.
(Put it in this topic as it seems more a build realisation than anything else)
7 Likes
And to avoid twister the shifting shaft
On my first Schlumpf hub, I twisted the shaft because the button was too far out, I guess. It had to go back to Florian’s to be disassembled and fixed
By the way, what you’re saying is right. But be careful not to put the buttons too far in. Otherwise, you won’t be able to shift…!
2 Likes