Post Your 36er Here

I would totally do that

Nimbus Titan frame
Standard hub (Nimbus CrMO square taper)
KH Fusion Freeride saddle
Nimbus Alloy seat post
Nimbus double bolt clamp - Red (+ black extra)
Twisted PC Pedals - Glow In The Dark
After only one good long ride, I am hooked! Love the Big Wheel :smiley:

Updates: added a fender, swapped the KH “T” for a longer Nimbus Shadow “T” in the KH T-bar base, added another headlight (the Nimbus bar is enough wider to allow this), added reflectors to my pedals, and added a bunch of stickers, including reflective ones on the fender and on the spokes. The fender and reflectors support my efforts to commute more via uni. Got the reflective sharks from an eBay vendor called “Fun Reflectors”.

I’ve posted more comments on the handlebar setup in the KH T-bar thread. T-bar discussion thread


unishark: I’m pretty sure there has never been a unicycle with purple pedals and purple hand grips in Montana. Did you research this? Are you sure it is legal?

I would be “sheepish” about being too colorful in Montana : ) …but being “sheepish” might not be wise either, with the exception it could ramp up your cadence quite a bit.

Yeah, so seriously now, I will post up some pics of some mods I think you might find value in within the next couple days.

This is a really good Thread BTW

Q: “Purple?”

And yes, the longer handlebar is in response to your prodding about doing longer rides. Still not sure how far I’ll work up to, but I’m trying.
Actually, I’m looking at doing a local two-day tour, maybe do the 85 mile option via uni on day one then 110 miles on day 2 with my recumbent. Unfortunately, it’s the same weekend as Reach the Beach.

Some Ideas

I bought a pair of Davinci Designs 3 hole cranks. The pedal holes are at 130mm, 150mm, and 170mm. I was initially a little leary about how well the aluminum crank could take cycles of pedal changes. Dave Elliot had nothing but good to say about the Davinci Design cranks he had on his Coker so I called the owner and he was very well aware of the composition and properties of his product, and it put my mind at ease because they are $195.00…which is more than a candy bar.

When I was in India I saw a take down bike that had quick release pedals that worked like the couplers on air tools. The ones I saw were by Wellgo I believe, pretty sure. The benefit is that you don’t have to unscrew the pedals and possibly gall or otherwise damage the pedal threads in the aluminum crank. The insert threads into the crank and remains and the pedal inserts and locks with a snap like an air fitting.

My thoughts were to place an insert into the 130mm,150mm,and 170mm pedal holes in the crank and swap pedal positions really fast without risking damage to the threads. It would have the benefit of being faster to change the pedal position and also prolong the thread life.

Mks has a two similar systems to the Wellgo. I decided to go with the MKS Superior with the Grip King pedals. The Superior system has to be aligned to the corresponding marks before the pedal can release from the insert so it is more positive in retention.

The first thing I discovered is that the hole pattern of 130,150, and 170 is a little too narrow to accommodate all three inserts per side that the Grip King pedal will click into. The hole pattern could be opened up center to center slightly and then you could change hole positions quickly between multiple inserts. As it is now I can only put the inserts into 130mm or 170mm or the 150mm by itself. 130mm or 170mm is not too bad because I only change out of 130mm for a steep hill.

The other issue is Q Factor because the inserts space the pedal out a little bit from the crank. I haven’t had any problem with Q Factor yet even after back to back century rides during the STP. Adding space is a consideration still.

The inserts are a concern also during the pedal rotation because if you place your foot to close to the crank an insert will make contact along the lower edge of your shoe and possibly dislodge your foot. It was not any issue if you mount carefully and stay aware as you set your feet to ride.

Here are a few pics and I also fabricated some aluminum bases for the forearm pads on the aero bars to withstand a crash because the plastic ones are fragile.

You can get Grip King pedals with standard threads and just swap hole positions with a wrench and finesse. the Grip King pedals are really a good pedal for me and worth looking at.

You could also get a Kris Holm 36’r with dual moment cranks in the first place with a Free Ride Fusion seat instead of adding this and that to the Coker get similar effect.

I really grew to appreciate the 2010 Kris Holm Free Ride saddle for distance. I should have said that sooner.

Coker needs to offer a dual or multi hole crank


really nice stuff!

Some Other Stuff To Consider

The Handle bars w/forearm pads help take the uni rider down into a tuck that helps shed the resistance of the wind. The bars help change your body posture as you deal with strains and cramping on a long ride and the forearm pads are good to lean on as the miles accumulate.

The Grip King pedals are worth that second look if you like good grip but not quite the ultra aggressive spikes or being clipped in. Being clipped in is great but I lack the courage. I know the benefit is huge to being clipped into pedals, but fear restrains me going clipped in on a unicycle and I admit it.

unishark:The Grip King pedals are good for a longer foot also. Your shoe is fairly close to technically being classified as a “kayak”, so it might work a little better.
If you had to, I think you could have the pedals anodized “purple” as long as it does not violate any ordinances in place in Montana.

A pic to help

Handle bars…forgot to post a pic

Careful, I might show up with pointy-toed purple shoes next time I ride with you. :smiley:

Point Taken

I would hate to feel the “agony of da feet”

With the Wellgo system is there a sleeve for the pedal so you can choose any pedal you like, or do you have to use their pedal with a proprietary design for their crank insert? The photo I saw in a web search made it look like the latter…
So you like the MKS design better than the Wellgo, or do they both seem good to you? I have KH 137/165 cranks - do you think there is enough room to put an insert in both holes? Based on your photo I will guess yes.

Where did you get the Grip Kings, from Rivendell? I’ve seen two big flat aluminum pedal designs from different manufacturers but can’t remember either one. One of them is what Terry Peterson swears by (I just remember this from one of his numerous videos out on YouTube but can’t remember which…), the other I saw in the LBS so I may stop by tomorrow and have a look. But these Grip King look pretty sweet. They are not as wide, but the length looks nice!

One more question Straitarrow. What is the extra bar you have coming up from the seat clamp all the way out to the front of your bars? You have the PiBar, but then added the aero bars somehow. Would you mind posting a couple close up photos and some descriptions (if needed)? Thanks! I am just getting into 36er riding, but have aspirations of century rides. This looks like a very nice setup for serious distance.

NotSoYoungOne: I think the Wellgo design works with their own special pedal. The MKS Lamda pedal is the same as a Grip King by Rivendell. MKS makes two quick release pedal systems that are similar but won’t interchange. The MKS Superior is more positive in retention (may not matter)

I drilled two holes in the Pi Bar System to let a “Tee Bar” (I fabricated out of lightweight 6061 T-6 D aluminum tubing) slide into. The aluminum third member is to withstand a crash which I have tested successfully : ). I stole the concept from Brycer1968 BTW…Thanks again Brycer

The reason I like the Pi Bar is the adjustability, strength and I really like the brake there and those extra bar ends on steep uphills and descents are ergonomic for me, but I adjust to things to a fault. May not be right for you and could be a simplified way to accomplish this and be lighter in weight. I intend to fab a Pi Bar out of aluminum to save weight if nothing else.

The 2010 Kris Holm Free Ride seat is my choice for distance. It felt hard at first but it lets you sit on the “sit bones” without extra padding making contact with sensitive running gear that hangs below the chassis. 30,000 light taps to the tea bags eventually equal getting kicked in the junk by a horse once (worth repeating). I adjusted to the 2010 KH saddle, did back to back centuries at the 2010 STP and worked the next day. I owe Kris Holm a lot for that saddle.

Here is a pic of the “Tee Bar” that slides into a stock Pi Bar while I was getting right for me. Also a pic of a seat idea I made.

The Kris Holm saddle is best for me


Straightarrow - interesting that you like the Freeride saddle so much… I have a first generation Freeride saddle and also a UDC gel saddle from about the same era. I find that - at least when I’m riding with handlebars - I actually prefer the UDC saddle, even though I’d say it’s really more of a Street saddle than a distance one…

I noticed this getting back onto my 29er and 36er this weekend after a long time without much riding. The reason I think I prefer the UDC saddle is, unintuitively, because it’s more curved than the freeride. I usually find angling the saddle’s nose up most comfortable. When I’m using handlebars I’m also leaning forward a bit and using the bars to take the weight off the saddle a bit. In this configuration the extra curve on the UDC gel saddle gives me a large, flat space to sit on and there’s enough room for sensitive bits despite the front of the saddle being higher. With the Freeride being flatter I don’t get the same benefit from the upwards tilt…

Maybe I just need to experiment with different angles more but so far I’ve not managed to get that increase in comfort that I was expecting from the Freeride. It’d probably be different if I was, e.g. riding without handlebars, however.

Hey Mark,

What sort of distances do you ride? If you’ve been off riding a couple months, you will likely find a softer (gel) saddle more comfortable at first, but it won’t take you as far. It takes some time to re-adapt to harder saddles even for seasoned pros (after a winter break for example). The Sheldon Brown has a pretty good write-up:

Not to say that’s the only factor, but it may be a contributor toward your UDC affection.

I’m not sure I completely understand your geometric descriptions. When you use the handlebars, are you pushing yourself back in the seat, which leaves more room in front? And so the same distance back on the KH doesn’t give as much room because it’s flatter?

On my roadie I have ridden the past several years on a Brooks B17 and have fallen in love with this saddle. I trained for and rode a dual century in 2009 and never had problems with saddle sore-ness or even serious numbness (a little here and there on those long 6-8 hour rides but nothing that a quick jump up out of the saddle didn’t resolve quickly). I like the hybrid saddle design idea by straightarrow in the photo above and wonder if you could do the same thing with a Brooks. It looks cool, but I am not sure how you actually did it? :thinking: I know I saw a photo of a 36er a couple months back by someone that just had a road saddle and not a unicycling saddle, but I don’t know how well that actually works and can’t find the photo again.

I am still figuring out long rides, but so far I am struggling a lot with road camber and don’t know how to get comfortable riding for long distances on sloped surfaces. I find with the KH Fusion Freeride that I am chafing a lot because the unicycle is leaning a lot one way or the other to compensate for road camber, and the pressure goes to the inner thigh against the saddle. Even with cycling shorts the chafing is noticeable after a few miles. It seems like the Freeride is wider in the middle than the Nimbus gel, but I don’t have one so I can’t really make a comparison. I wonder how a street saddle would do on long distance rides?

Any ideas on any of these things would be welcome :sunglasses:

Oh yeah, one more dumb question about the whole “bump” thing (delta 224). Does that just mean that the thread is kinda dead and you are just trying to get it moving again?

Thanks! NSYO

Uni technology has sure improved since 2006! On the right was my first 36er, with single walled steel rim. The other two are 24" torker DX and Summit trials.

Hey Magnustudios,

Well, I’ve actually been out of riding regularly for about a couple of years, where previously I used to do a lot of rides medium distance rides (say up to 10 miles on a riding day - so not short distance but not really long haul).

The thing with saddles, I find, is that I generally care a lot more about the shape than the hardness. I’ve (almost) never had a problem with saddle soreness from hard saddles (of any kind - unicycle, bike, horse) but I often dislike saddles that are somehow the “wrong” shape for me… The Freeride and the UDC gel are both relatively soft saddles, although they are a different kind of squishiness!

I’m not sure I’ve got the geometry of the situation straight either, to be honest!

Having a curved saddle tilted up makes it more comfortable because all my weight can then go onto my sit bones, which rest directly onto the wide rear part of the saddle. Tilting the saddle up makes the wide rear part flat so that this is a comfortable way to sit. Even though the rest of the saddle angles upwards, it’s not uncomfortable because there’s not pressure on sensitive areas.

With a Freeride saddle I can’t do this trick as much and I feel more pressure in the wrong places. This shouldn’t really matter if I get the saddle at the right angle. But I do wonder if the Freeride is a touch narrower and therefore supports my sit bones less well. It could even be that I sink into my Freeride saddle more and that’s the problem.

I should probably investigate more. And really I should get some proper cycle shorts so that I eliminate the problem of seams, etc…

Mark: I think you are putting thought into the seat comfort issue exactly right. Finding the right combination for you is going to be crucial on your longer rides. There doesn’t seem to be a “one size fits all” solution. I adapt well and sometimes things work for me because I manage to adapt and make it work. It can be bad to adapt and just make things work when a little more thought and effort could yield a much better result. I try to remain cognizant of the fact that there may be a better way to get from Point A to Point B, so I like the analysis and thought though I miss a lot for not reading many threads here.