I did 20 miles today on a Coker saddle with no problems. I like the Coker seat alot better than the Nimbus Gel seat I have on my Muni. There is much less rubbing and pinching with the Coker. I ride with loose pants (military style with lots of pockets) over bicycle shorts, over a pair of synthetic bakini-style briefs (a.k.a. banana sling). I’ve been using this system for years on the bicycle and have found that it prevents almost all chafing, wicks sweat well and keeps my “junk” high, tight and out of trouble. That being said, I still have problems with the Nimbus seat on long (10 mi.) rides.
Also: I assume that at some point, after more time in the saddle, I will be able to ride with both hands on the handlebar without veering off wildly into the woods. Right now I can ride comfortably with my left hand on, but when I try to hold on with my right hand only, I look like I’m trying to go 8 seconds at the county rodeo.
And why did the forum change to French and how do I get it back to English?
Scroll down to the bottom of the page. Select English in the language combo (just above the “Powered by vBulletin”).
Ahhh … merci beaucoup!
Yes, my instinct initially with my T7 bars was to use both hands and that didn’t work at all at the start. As a result I got a lot worse at riding until I remembered to only ride with one!
Having got more used to them I actually prefer to put both hands on and take some weight off the saddle! I think they help my stability in some ways (maybe higher average speed) although I don’t suppose they’re quite as good for precise balance as being able to wave my arms more - top speed possibly a bit lower.
Has anyone tried using bicycle aero bars?
Yes, a few. Do a search for “aero bars”.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mT13ZcpwYtA
This would look really cool on a 36er. Anyone willing to try it 
Well, since you asked, here are some pictures of my set ups. I’ve got two different aerobars.
The first one is my short set. This is what I use when I’m commuting, riding around town and going on trail rides. Even on long trail rides (20-30 miles) I prefer these. They don’t have the inertia that resists pivoting/turning. I’ve found that my longer aerobars add just enough angular inertia to the pivot motion that they interfere with successfully navigating down steep twisty trails. But they’re long enough to let me stretch out a bit, shift my weight around and take some weight off my saddle. These are the bars that are on my unicycle 90% of the time.
My second set is about two inches longer and has the elbow pads. I use these for marathons on pavement and centuries. Anytime I’m going to be covering long distances riding straight and fast on pavement, these are my bars of choice. By grabbing the ends of the bars and putting my elbows in the rests they let me lock in to the bars and guni. They add lots of stability, especially in high gear. I can take a lot more weight off the saddle with these bars and yet still put weight on the guni. When you’re riding a century that’s crucial. I wouldn’t want to ride one with out them. The Golden Gate Bridge pic is the only one I could find that shows me in this locked in position. Sorry, I couldn’t find a profile picture. It looks from the front like I’m all crunched up, but really I’m pretty well stretched out.
Geoff
fantastic looking setups Geoff 
+1
Geoff, would you mind telling us more about your custom frame? You basically have two seat posts… It looks like it would be kinda scary if you needed to come off the front, but maybe UPD’s are in your past 
(they are definitely an integral part of my riding still ;)) Thanks!
Here’s my Coker with the handlebars I fashioned from a set of aero bars and an old MTN bike stem.
Terry,
Looks like you need to order some pedals too!
Geoff
Nah, that would make it too easy. I’ve decided to make it more challenging, so I plan to put the aerobar setup on my bc wheel instead! 
Thanks jogi. I love it, but of course I can always think of some configuration that could be a little better…
NSYO,
For me, UPDs are neither scary nor rare. These bars are narrow, so they don’t interfere with my legs getting out in front of me during a UPD. I know there are several people out there (Turtle, Scott Wilton etc.) who have ridden with much wider bars than these who claim no leg interference when they UPD.
As far as construction of the frame here’s what the builder, Pete Perron, wrote me about it when I bought if from him:
I built the frame myself. It started life as a Nimbus frame, which I cut apart and TIG brazed into this configuration. So the bearing holders are the stock 40mm Nimbus. The X braces in the center clear the tire by about 3/8" on each side, which is plenty. The tabs down by the bearing holders were relocated to the inside of the frame legs, for better support for the hub’s torque arm lever. The brake mounts were cut and rebrazed on the rear legs. The handlebar tube is the stock Nimbus tube (25.4mm ID), and the seat tube is butted chrome-moly (26.8mm ID). So even though I “borrowed” most of the tubes from a Nimbus, it was still quite a bit of fabrication.
[SIZE=2]I also wrote a little bit about it in my all time favorite thread “Road Unicycle Set-Up and T7 Handle Modification”. Road Unicycle Set-Up and T7 Handle Modification Check out post #118 and beyond. I know I’ve posted a bunch of pictures of it but I can’t seem to remember which threads. I was surprised that I hadn’t posted any in this thread or in the “Road Unicycle Set-Up…” thread. Clearly, I’m deluding myself.
[/SIZE]
Geoff
That’s a really clean looking setup.
I’m guessing that’s just a cut piece of bar where the aero bar attaches to the front of the stem? And what is the silver thing under the seat grab handle that is holding the aero bar and how is it attached?
Thanks. I find it very comfortable riding. The short piece that connects the bars to the stem is actually the left-over from cutting the seat tube with a couple black plastic handlebar plugs in the ends to clean it up. The silver piece is the break lever mount which is unused at present.
Don’t over-think this stuff. Just get a set of aerobars and attach to the “T” section of a KH touring handle. Done.