Hi hammer , do you know what model number your brake is? I’ve found that some of the base shimano are poor but if you go for SLX or XT they are better.
If your likely to drop it a lot change the lever to either XTR or saints as there more robust.
Another thing I do is set lever clamp bolt to a point that lever is tight enough to be secure but loose enough to be moved by hand so when dropped it just spins rather than brake lever.
My experience has been that all the hydraulic disc brakes I’ve tried have been pretty good and even the lowest level of Shimano components is generally quite functional. The worst hydraulic brakes I have used were still better than the best set of mechanical disc brakes. I’ve had some terrible mechanical disc brakes in the past. Once the hacks that produce cut rate bikes for Walmart and target start doing hydraulic brakes though, I’m sure they’ll manage to make a mess of them.
The brake caliper says BR-MT400. Some entry level stuff / not even Deore The brake lever rattles slightly when not engaged. It feels cheap and not very confidence inspiring. This is not to bash Shimano at all as they also make high quality brakes but this particular model is just not impressive.
Saints is fantastic but also expensive! Not planning to drop it a lot
I’ve ordered a Magura MT5 (4-piston) brake as a found a Black Friday offer. It might be too powerful but then I could swap it with the Magura Sport (2-piston) on my 36".
Some video of today’s ride.
More of me than my daughter as she was enjoying doing the filming. She says she likes watching me fall.
Those look like some really nice trails!
They really are. It’s a very extensive mountain bike park about 15 miles from my house. You can ride there for hours without ever repeating the same trails.
If anyone happens to live in western Washington it’s 360 trails/Gateway Park near Gig Harbor.
What brake are you using on the other uni. Just curious, modulation has always been a problem for me.
The type of brake pad used can make a large difference in the function of brakes. I switched from semi-metallic to organic for a smoother easier to control braking action. They work great on my 36er.
It looks like the two of you had a blast! Thank you for sharing!
Snow has arrived here so I’m leaving wiggly tracks about the property
Looks like a great ride, great skills. Cant believe how easy the kids make it look too, being in the learning stages I couldn’t believe it when opening a book to see all the kids making it look so easy and doing the advanced work. Looks like you’re daughter is doing great with it and great that you have a riding buddy
27.5"/Magura MT4 and 36"/Magura MT Sport (the cheapest / entry level model). I also have a set of MT5 on a two-wheeler. All Magura’s share a very similar (Flip-flop) lever design with a clamp that can be separated which is convenient for mounting in various positions. And they all have nice/similar feel/modulation. Works great for Munis for me.
For some “scientific” approach to testing power of disc-brakes this is quite informative: Ultimate Force! Eight of the best E-MTB disc brakes in comparison | E-MOUNTAINBIKE Magazine
…but personally I do believe that feel/modulation is more important than maximum power. And then of course the ergonomics of the handlebar/brake setup. My first Muni brake was a Magura HS11 (hydraulic rim brake) and I was not able to position it ergonomically (partly due to the HS11 not having “reach adjust”) and therefore I never learned to use a brake before I got the MT4. But that doesn’t mean that the HS11 (or “rim brakes” in general) is a poor choice. It just didn’t work for me due to poor ergonomics.
Today’s ride was across Kager Lk. then up and over to Long Lk.
Here’s between the lakes.
… and riding with my eyes closed. (not while turning around)
Why do you ride with closed eye’s?
I’m working on developing other senses with regards to unicycling.
Closing your eyes is fun and you learn to ride by feel and sound.
It’s pretty fun/scary to follow someone else that’s riding in front of you just by sound.
Or better yet, have them follow you and tell you to go left or right to maintain course all the while keeping your eyes closed.
Frozen lakes, parking lots, or unused roads are great places to try it.
30 seconds of blind riding sure feels a lot longer though.
In the rain in Ireland with my newest setup:
First snow (5-10cm) of the year where I live so took a short loop (~2km) around the trails right next to my house…
It was my first Unicycling experience in snow (also a first wearing winter boots instead of Five Ten shoes) so I was a bit careful and the wheel also slipped a bit a few times where the snow was deep but fortunately no UPDs just a single planned dismount to snap a picture.
It was easier than expected probably due to the aggressive Bontrager XR4 29x3.0". But I also took a “safe” predictable route which has very nice and firm gravel path underneath the snow. I prefer to be able to predict my UPDs and I don’t like the idea of the wheel suddenly disappearing underneath me
Post-ride picture from my driveway. Time to get some winter tires mounted on the car as well…
Don’t give the tire all of the credit… I’m sure the winter boots helped too.
I bet you’re a good rider.