Yes, something like that was what I had in mind, but I hadn’t thought of 3d printing something when I wrote the above post – I’m maybe too old school (!) I did see this when it was originally posted and thought it was pretty neat. I’m not sure how well the printed plastic stands up to being a bearing housing, but it is a good idea and nicely made.
That said, I think I agree with the sentiment that you really need to have a big fat wheel in a Hatchet . UDC used to say on their Hatchet description that you could fit a 32" wheel in the frame, I was just checking for someone if it was the case (since I had just got my Hatchet frame and I have a 32" Oracle). Actually, you can fit a 32" wheel in a Hatchet frame, it is just that you’d have to do it without a tyre!
It would probably be fine, I have no experience of the durability of the material, it would be under a reasonable amount of compression and also sheer forces. Basically I don’t know if it would end up breaking up – not that that would stop me giving it a go though :o) I did like it as a solution. I wasn’t aware that you could 3d print carbon-fibre.
I have always thought getting a 3d printer would be a reasonable idea for playing around with stuff like that – there are always too many other roads for one’s money to run though…
As a spacer between machined bearing caps I suspect it’d hold up pretty well as it’s mostly in compression, but still something like ABS would be a better bet than some basic PLA.
Well, you can’t really. You can print plastic that’s got carbon fibre strands embedded in it, but the additional strength is nothing like a part actually moulded with carbon fibre as the strands obviously have to miniscule to fit into the filament and be squeezed through a tiny nozzle.
They don’t do anything for layer-layer strength (additives can often also make this worse), and are a good way to have to replace your nozzle frequently as the material’s rather abrasive.
I just wondered if the material would ‘crumble’ given the way it is deposited, especially with sheer in the direction along the axis of the axle, but I guess it is also clamped up by the bolts. I’d need to take a hammer to something printed to get a feel for it!
Anyway, what you say about printing carbon-fibre pretty much fits with what I would think. I didn’t actually think that any fibres that short would have any significant benefit over just ‘resin’. I didn’t really think about it wearing the nozzle though, more that it might clog it up. Either way, I’ve learned something.
How is the maneuverability of a hatchet compared to something like a 36” (Coker with 4-ply tire and 48 spoke wheel), or a 24” x 2.35” Sun? A 26” x 4.8” hatchet came up for sale for $400. It looks like it is in nice shape. I think it would be slightly older than the currently sold ones since it has venture cranks in it, but it looks like a nice deal for a disk brake muni.
Somewhere in the middle between the 36" and the 24" I’d say (unsurprisingly). Looks like a good deal to me, even if you don’t end up liking it, I bet you can resell it for similar money.
Itˋs younger than mine (end of 2016), because it has the newer rim with the offset spoke lacing (with the non-offset I had quite an issue with the wheel keeping centered). And I agree with @finnspin that it is a good deal. Fat unicycles are a breed of their own, as fatb*kes are in the two wheeled world. I like mine very much.
Nice selection of parts there especially the carbon rim bet you can’t wait to get the frame, in the meantime get the wheel built up? Curious how your hub and crank have come in boxes as mine have always just been chucked in a bag!
I imagine the packaging improvements are a result of shipping problems. With limited stock due to pandemic related supply chain issues, you can’t afford to be losing inventory to disgruntled delivery drivers.
I was concerned when the carbon rim showed up in a box that looked like a post-party piñata. Luckily no damage.
Wheel looks great, any idea when your frame is coming ? Also do you know what crank lengths your going to use on it ? I’m running 165s on my hatchet which some would say is too long but I like the control they give
Hatchet 26ers are supposed to be back in stock at UDC next month, so I’ll buy the whole 26er and use the 26 wheel as an alternate. Was thinking about getting a veetire fattyslick for it eventually.
The cranks are 100/125/150 3 hole, so I have options.
Hopefully they get a bunch of Hatchets, didn’t think it was that in demand!
If I get a chance to nab up a Hatchet (26"), I’d like another tire for riding on the road. Not sure 27.5" or 29". Or spokes, rim, hub, crank length and even tube. I’m pretty lost since I last rode 3 years ago on the Nimbus Oregon. I would love suggestions, leaning for 3" width or bigger as I’m a heavier rider and always loved fatter tires. Contacted unicycle.com and they suggested I use their wheel-building service. I’d rather get a whole wheel and ride rather than build my own and spare a headache, to be honest.
Any recommendations for a road wheel setup I can swap out on the fly? Is that something people do? And I have so much to learn about auto-steering and tread patterns…
P.S - I should mention I mainly ride in forests and mountain areas thus the Hatchet’s original tire. The road tire would be my lite-riding on the side.
. UDC used to say on their Hatchet description that you could fit a 32" wheel in the frame, I was just checking for someone if it was the case (since I had just got my Hatchet frame and I have a 32" Oracle). Actually, you can fit a 32" wheel in a Hatchet frame, it is just that you’d have to do it without a tyre!
bet you can’t wait to get the frame, in the meantime get the wheel built up? Curious how your hub and crank have come in boxes as mine have always just been chucked in a bag!
would it be cheeky of me to ask how much it was?
