It’s obviously going to depend on how hardcore your MUni is, but @UniGeezer has been riding offroad on his for a while so he might have some insight.
36er Muni in general though has been happening for over a decade and parts have only got better in that time.
Then of course there’s Cédric abusing his 100mm hub Qu-Ax 36er. I wonder if he’s broken anything yet:
Speaking of which, note his saddle position. Low? Probably not considering the kinds of tricks he is doing.
I had 138 mm for that ride, yes. I think I will be switching between 138 and 117 quite often depending on how steep or technical the terrain is (also adjusting the seat by the same amount).
Since I don’t plan to go full Cédric style, I’m not so worried. I also don’t have any sharp rocks around. I think for muni the light rim helps a lot! Also important for muni is a strong brake. I learnt this the hard way when I ran out of braking power on a steep descent, lost control and had a pretty good crash. I just put in new brake pads and ordered 203 mm rotors 
I’m not surprised by the lower saddle - his jumps and tricks are all done seat in and riding off-road with a road-height setup is rough.
I always have mine lower than optimal because occasionally I ride off-road or hop up a curb and it makes it easier.
I think Roger’s comment is about disc on the hub like on this orange M4O 36, Simon @toutestbon did same and I don’t agree with this set up; my view is 100mm wide + disc on crank or 125mm wide and disc on the hub with strait cranks (I don’t like them because of my feet position)
You’re right. I have misread this message:
So, it is not weak but it’s weaker than a 125mm-wide hub 
I would always prefer the setup with the least Q factor. And I only use my light 36" on roads and paths.
Otherwise to react to other questions about double or triple insert cranks. When I go for a long climb, I use at least 2 holes (for a unicycle without gear). However, I keep the saddle position that corresponds to the longest crank position on that ride. For the descent, it’s not a problem for my knees to be low on the saddle, there is no force to put on the pedals, just velocity.
I think you meant brake mount tabs, not brake lever.
FYI, you can run a disc brake either inboard or outboard with any 36er frame, with or without brake tabs. The Dbrake can be used on either the left or right side.
I wouldn’t bother trying on a cotterless system though
Anyone know the weight of the M4O 36" frame?
Not yet but I am one step closer now I have the wheel
But I am still missing the King George Ultimate
I had considered salvaging the tyre from my other 36er and using the Mad4One for this ride
But I couldn’t motivate myself the evening before and have now decided I shall just wait.
I could weigh mine for you but I do not have particularly accurate scales. You are probably better asking @MAD4ONE directly.
The silver hub and orange frame are going to look great together!
Well it is neither the intended, nor the final configuration… but I had enough spare parts, so I built up a basic version of it so I could try it out.
Some things will change. It has VCX+ cranks on for now but these will be replaced with Kris Holm Spirit Disc cranks because it will also have a brake (outboard). In addition this is just an extra UDC Club saddle I had lying around, that I will switch out later. I am also planning to have a handlebar.
I should note that some things were going to be different. Originally I had intended black spokes and black (M4O) cranks, along with a Nimbus Stadium Unicycle with orange hints, to keep the black and orange theme going throughout. However, once I decided to go with outboard disc for braking, Kris Holm Spirit Disc cranks became the only option. Since they are silver, I figured maybe the silver spokes would be better, especially if I went with a Nimbus aluminium hub, which I did. I am not totally sure if that hub was the right call now (I have heard of a couple people braking those alu hubs) but here we are, that is what I did! 
Now that I no longer have the pure “black and orange” theme, I doubt I will go with the Stadium saddle because to be honest the last one I tried I did not really like, so… I might as well get something else. 
I am thinking that through right now. I also have not settled on what I will do for the handlebar.
I have only ridden it around the block once because I did not put it together until very late this evening and it is dark now but… wow it is feels so light and responsive. Like a smaller uni (but faster). This is obviously not just down to the frame. My previous 36er was an all steel (apart from the cranks) UDC Trainer, with the heavier (original) Nimbus Nightrider tyre. This is all aluminium and has the KG Ultimate (light) tyre and lighter inner tube. I have not weighed it but I went back and forth between the two of them in my quick test and they feel worlds apart.
So far, despite not being exactly what I imagined, and not entirely finished, I am really happy with it! 
Yes, past Ruari, it was!
Looks classy. Silver spokes were definitely the right call.
I would avoid any orange accents on the saddle. They always end up getting dirty and looking meh.
