Well I have to say yours finalised looks amazing. I hope you are enjoying it!
P.S. I wonder if you are the first one (outside of the M4O team themselves) to try out the frame. You probably are!
EDIT: And @UniMyra just pointed out which “Ben” you are and I feel silly. I guess you had this for a while? 
Haha, no worries
The frame in my picture is from the same batch as yours (i.e. the first production run) 
Super nice. The perfect 36er muni!
Ti pedals?! Can you weight that beast?
Just alu pedals with a nice finish. The whole thing weights 6.7 kg.
Those multi-hole cranks are in a mid position judging by your latest Strava entry
That looks like quite a high gearing for the types of hills you are doing. 
I actually tried the 159 mm position of the triple-hole cranks, but it didn’t really work for me, I’m just so used to cranks between 110-140 mm
Props for offroad climbing on a 36er!
Question for those who use multi hole cranks and actually change the position: do you adjust your saddle height as well?
On several occasions I’ve entertained the idea of putting 127/150mm cranks on my 36er to make it more offroad-capable (I currently use 110/127mm, but only use the 127mm hole). I’m extremely lazy, however, and don’t want to adjust the saddle mid ride. Or at all really 
There was a thread here once about not adjusting the saddle but I can’t immediately see it now. With quick release and a seat post with markings, it isn’t that painful though. Certainly a lot quicker than a crank position change.
Ah here it is
Just like you, I haven’t been changing the positions during a ride even though I could. Suppose if it’s on road, I keep it shorter, and off road, I keep it longer the whole time, even for the on road sections to get to and from the start point. Changing the length might throw off my mounting or restarting when hopping. I have to ease into it.
Thank you ruaripedia 
Heh, my pedals haven’t moved from the 127mm hole for ~5 years.
Yes, always. Because otherwise the saddle is either too high or too low, so sitting comfort is bad or your knees don’t like it. I usually adjust approximately the hight according to the difference on the cranks, so 10 mm shorter cranks would mean approximately 10 mm higher saddle.
Ok so these are 117-138-159mm cranks then and the mid position that you use is 138mm? That is better than I thought. I kind of imagined 125mm. Nonetheless, with some of the grades that Strava is reporting for your route and considering the big wheel, I am impressed.
Aren’t you afraid your setup is too weak for muni? If that’s really a 32H carbon rim it probably won’t be strong enough to endure big hops. 
Mine haven’t moved from the 110mm hole for ~8 years.
I only have dual hole cranks because they’re my only option with Spirits.
Do you mean because of the structure of the rim or the number of spokes?
In theory if I could only have one unicycle it would be a 36er with 110/127/150mm cranks. In practice, as mentioned I’m too lazy to take advantage of it 
Oh yeah, my knees really complain if my saddle is too low. Except on my muni - I stand a lot when riding muni so I have the saddle about 12mm lower than my other wheels to make mounting and handling a bit easier.
Anyway, back on topic… How is that narrow rim offroad? Do you need to keep the pressure high to prevent squirming?
So, the interface on my 117/137s is a bit worn following use on a Schlumpf so I’ve now got myself some new 117/137s and I’m thinking I should get another hole drilled at 100mm or so…
I might actually use two holes then.
My primary concern is about the number of spokes. An experimented wheel builder told me he wouldn’t even try off-road on such a wheel. I’m also concerned about the 100mm-wide hub. Roger regularly told us it is pretty weak on a big wheel. Both of these points make me worry about the solidity of this wheel.