Happy to remove it - you can too if you think the change will add clarity etc., no need to seek any approval really on bits that add value or clear up possible confused for this WiKi
I added it in, as a column for Brands’ Lines/SKU (of frame) felt like it could be excessive and over complicating the table.
However what Roger has highlighted - the frame view here isn’t really needed as it comes down to a set of specifications, which when met means a frame has reached compatibility.
Added to all this, while I can’t speak for others I’d not aim on putting a schlumpf (1650g) into a steel frame due to the weight - and presume 99% of riders would opt for aluminium due to that being lighter.
But then again - make a change if you think it needs it
I am contemplating buying a schlumpf hub, I figure it would be good for going fast and far in nice flat areas, at the moment I’m limited by pedalling speed. The hub is approx AUD$2500 though… I don’t have any aluminium framed unis, only steel.
Time to buy a new frame then! Such a great hub should not be put into a low-end frame
Hi Didier - the hole is only needed on the the left side.
Low end frames? Steel frames currently on the market are, but it’s not because it’s steel that it’s low-end! I freshly finished a 36er frame made with 4130 steel, and already compatible with all the ISIS schlumpfs generations . Yes there is a little weight penalty over an alloy frame, but it will be a lot stiffer. Plus it’s made with aero tubing, so hey, it should be faster right?
There’s nothing about low end about your steel frames that’s for sure @jaco_flans
It might be interesting to see old school steel bicycle style steel frames with intricate lugs. Some of those were beautiful and a unicycle made in that style would be really cool.
Nimbus and a bunch of other brands used to make frames like that. Currently I think Miyata might be the only one still making this type of frame: https://unicycle.onlinestores.jp/resources/upload/products/FL2021.jpg
Hey all - update on the comment above, regarding 6 mm vs 8 mm hole for the lock.
It is going to be 8 mm after all - sunwheel production moved faster than expected.
Re KH frame modification (can’t comment on others) - suggest avoiding drilling out the upper bearing housing to avoid potential for affecting the weld join.
Yes, the steel 42mm bearing clamps would/do work really with Schlumpf hubs. I used one for my Lands End to John O’Groats ride.
I’m confused by the 8mm drilling thing - where does the hole need to go and why?
It’ll go into the top section of the bearing mounts. So frame legs side. If frame doesn’t have the hole then the jig will line up a spot for you to drill it.
It’s purpose is to hold that bearing so that it cannot rotate as the hub needs a torque reaction fastener to function.
Previous the solution was a little notch, before that knurling on the bearing for a compression friction fit hold, and way way way before that there was a torque arm that came out of the hub’s body and bolted to the frame.
Hope this helps a bit!