I came to 11,5 like this …
Missing measurement from right flange to middle of right bearing
A:100mm - ( E:16mm+D:17mm+C:57mm ) = 10mm
From middle of left bearing to left flange
E:16+D:17mm = 33mm
Left/right flange has this “offset”…
33mm - 10mm = 23mm
To make a symmetrical build half of this value is needed
23mm / 2 = 11,5mm
You want the stretchier spokes on the low tension side. The idea is that the rim, under load, will push in toward the hub a certain amount, which will lower the spoke tension. If you have the same spokes on each side, the low tension spokes will go slack first.
If you have lighter, stretchier spokes on the low tension side, the low tension will still be enough to stretch the spoke the similar distance as on the other (stiffer but high tension) side. So both sides will lose tension more evenly, and not go slack on one side first.
I used to use 14/15/14 gauge spokes on my mountain bike wheels on the drive side, where tension was high, and lightweight 14/17/14 spokes on the low tension side.
So with the options set out now and live on UDC UK—
I’m curious what builds people are planning 
I’m now toying with the 125mm 32h and Braus rim combo. Only hesitation is the fact that this would lock me into a 32h hub and that while I’ve seen really clear and successful tyre mounting to the Braus rim I have about 2% nerves over this being an expensive headache for tyres and tubes.
But that would be a dream carbon G36er 
I have got the 2 size hubs up on our spoke calculator, I know it is not as fancy as E-Bike.ca spoke calculator… but it does for everyone with a symmetrical rim. 
I have used the CAD drawings that Florian gave me some time ago to check clearances for the sizes rather than the one he has published for retail as he has rounded the figures on it and does not show flange width’s etc. I still have to double check these with Florian to be sure that he has not changed anything from those drawings, but they seam to be right.
While we’re on the spoke calculator, I’m not sure how best it could be achieved, but is there any way that each part can be more easily identified (mostly rims)?
It can be very difficult trying to identify which rim is the correct one if they don’t actually say on them what they are. I tend to measure the ERD myself from the physical part, but I’ve observed some confusion before with people trying to build up a new wheel from old parts just using what’s on the calculator.
Moving the follow up from the WiKi thread to here.
Yeah that can certainly go fast, but I’d always say they don’t go exactly as fast as they might seem on paper. Meaning a 24” — doesn’t ride as fast or as efficiently as a 36”.
But for me it’s all about a slower cadence and a new type of challenge, balance feeling and muscle workout.
I would however advise the adding in of say a Nimbus Oracle aluminium frame into the budget for this, not to mention a decent rim and spokes. While I know the hub is costly, the other costs are important for the whole package to be solid, light and reliable 
Let us know what you decide and your geared journey.
(I think you can tell I’m a tad obsessed! 
)
I’ve been rim shopping, and have not found many good options.
Two issues:
The order form seems to indicate the 125mm hub only comes in 36H.
The centerline offset is 11.5mm. That’s going to push every wide profile tire half an inch into the side of the frame. I’ve found very few asymmetric 36H rims 27.5 or larger.
For now, I’m looking to put a Maxxis Hookworm on a Halo Gravitas 29" rim. The rim has a 3mm offset, which helps, but not much.
That’s incorrect. The wheel will need to be dished just like all unicycles with internal disc brakes (and most wheels for regular bikes). The end result will be a wheel where the rim and tire is centered in the frame.
It helps to get slightly more even spoke tension in the dished wheel. And I don’t think it’s possible to get rims with larger offset.
There are not many 29" 36h offset rims. Custom carbon rims is an option. From e.g. Light Bicycle
Do people know if the KH Freeride rim is designed for / intrinsically better for symmetrical builds.
Would this rim work well with the off set we have with the inboard disc of the schlumpf hub?
My head says the Dominator2 in the more clearly tough and used in dished wheels option - but I do tend to prefer the design of KH gear… just by a hair or so, but still tend to prefer. But I’d go Dominator2 if it is better with dished wheels for sure!
Decision, decisions.
The generation rim in the picture is a fairly generic rim with some holes drilled out - really nothing special about it. It will work just fine in an asymmetric build, if you don’t plan to do big drops regularly I would not worry about it at all.
And even if, Mad4one has had similar rims (possibly even from the same extrusion) in use on asymmetric wheels for a long time and I have not heard of any trouble, just make sure the wheel is well built.
You won’t have any problem to mount your wheel, but to ride with a schlumpf I wonder if you need such a wide rim.
If you want to ride on paths, I would recommend the dominator2.
Thanks for this bit of advice. I see your point here, and yes paths would be the focus. So a narrower rim would make more sense especially if I want to run narrower tyres.
Cheers!
The 47mm wide KH rim with holes, i.e. the previous generation, was and still is a remarkable rim given the width and strength it provides at that weight.
The 46mm mad4one rim is similar, yet different. It’s a bit heavier and the holes are slightly smaller.
And the dominator is an even stronger rim, a very heavy DH rim.
There are different opinions on matching unicycling rim and tyre width. I comfortably ride tyres as narrow as 2.4inch on a rim such as the 47mm KH rim.
Working on the wheel build. 29" wheel max spoke tension=120kgf
0 offset 120kgf 53kgf.
3mm offset, 120kgf / 76kgf.
6mm offset 120kgf / 90kgf. (found a custom 42mm carbon that can be drilled @6mm)
As long as it’s for off-road riding at low pressure, there’s no worries.
But above 40 psi, there are risks of blowout. I know a lot of unicylists who had problems (including me), especially with schwalbe big apple and supermoto tires (29"x2.35"). I would avoid testing with their successor, the schwalbe g-one.
In my opinion, such wide rims must be reserved for off-road use.
I had the Schwalbe Big Apple on my 29er inflated to 3bar and loved it and it never blew. I only took it off to use an MTB Tire for some muni.
Anyone know if KH Moment cranks work with the latest Schlumpf hubs - 2022 included?
I ask as I have a pair of Moments that I like and would take off of another unicycle, but I know that the newer hubs have crank stops/spacers and I know that Moments are the oddity regarding spacer sizing - think they take 8mm whereas KH Spirits take 6mm.
So the question really is does anyone know if the previous version of the hub (before 2022) come with spacers that were aimed at working with Spirit cranks only, or can it work safely with Moments?
My M00122 came with 2 pairs of moment cranks. 165 and dual hole 125/150, I didn’t check spacer sizes just pulled off the 165’s and changed it to the dual holes. I also have 2 pairs of spirits that I use on my ungeared 36" 110/127 & 127/150 but decided to keeps moments on the guni.
Thanks for the reply.
That era hub as with my 200series doesn’t use any spacer so Moments will work.
I am just unclear on how the newer series of hubs that do have a space work as I can’t find any details as to the spacers sizing.
I suspect I’ll play it safe and use Spirits as that is likely what the hub and the spacer were aimed at being paired with.
Rather then assuming that any combination of axle/crank uses a specific size of spacer it would likely make sense to do the hand push on and measure method to determine the correct spacer size. Based on small differences in manufacture and/or wear in the parts the only sure method to size spacers is to follow the ISIS guideline.
