The easiest things to check are at the top of the list. When you have worked your way through (or as far as you need to) your unicycle should be creak free, unless the problem is unfixable (assuming you donāt want to rebuild the wheel).
Note: This is a wiki post, so (almost) anyone can edit. So please help make a complete list on how to troubleshoot and fix, creaking and squeaking noises coming from your unicycle. Ideally, to keep it from being overwhelming, the list should be kept fairly short, meaning long explanations on how to do repairs should not be in the list itself. Use a footnote, or link to another post or website with more detailed information.
How to troubleshoot noises: creaks, squeaks, clicks, or ticks
Before taking things apart. Listen to the offending sound and see if it repeats with each turn of the wheel, or follows a different pattern. If you have a suspect, check that first, otherwise follow the list.
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External sources
Problem:
The noise is coming from something other than your unicycle
Solution:
Eliminate other sources of noises than the unicycle itself. Empty your pockets. Check clothes and shoes for zippers etc. Check if your shoe or shoe laces are hitting the crank/pedals.
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Nuts and bolts
Problem:
Loose nuts or bolts causes noise.
Solution:
Check all the nuts and bolts and make sure they are tight. A drop of threadlocker will prevent them from coming loose.
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Tyre Part I (tire , dekk )
Problem:
There is a clicking sound coming from the tyre.
Solution
Check the tyre for small rocks or stones that are trapped in the tread.
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Saddle
Problem:
Broken saddle
Solution:
Wiggle the handle/bumper to see if it moves excessively. If it does, replace the saddle.
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Bearings part I
Problem:
Bearing housings are too tight or too loose.
Broken external bearing casing normally caused by over tight bearing housings.
Broken inner bearing housing. Can be caused by incorrect installation or damage from hub/spacer.
Worn bearing race. Normally by items getting in to the bearing, mud, water, grit or rust. Emphasised by over tight bearing housings.
Solution:
Step 1: Rotate the wheel and see if it rotates freely. A 20" wheel should carry on rotating for 4 or 5 rotations with only a gentle push.
If it does, check if the bearing housings are too loose. The bolts should be tightened just past snug.
If the wheel doesnāt spin freely, then loosen the bearing housings and check again. Keep in mind that even if it seems ok after loosening the bearing housing, the bearings might be damaged.
Step 2: Remove the wheel and inspect the bearings.
The bearings should appear undamaged and feel smooth to rotate, and not feel loose laterally. Inspect the inner race of the bearing, and make sure itās not broken.
If you detect a problem, replace bearings (always good policy to replace bearings in pairs). Donāt replace them if they seem ok. Because the bolts shouldnāt be very tight, you should put a drop of threadlocker on the bolts, so they donāt come loose
PS: Whenever you remove the wheel, you should inspect the brake pads if you have a disc brake. Always check that the wheel is inserted back in the frame correctly, right pedal on right foot, left pedal on left foot - simple check and save you walking home!
Links:
Video: Removing Unicycle Bearings - UDC UK
Video: Unicycle Bearings Overhaul - Terry Peterson
Text: How To Change Bearings - UDC UK
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Pedals
Problem:
Pedal bearings are too tight: Pedal clicks when you put lots of load on the pedal. When you Spin the pedal it will not spin freely and you can feel the pedal grind.
Pedal bearings are too slack: Pedal clunks. Grab the pedal and wiggleā¦ (you only get noise when it is very slack and the pedal bearings are running over each other.)
Solution:
Step 1: Replace the pedals to check if they are causing the noise (borrow if you donāt have any extra, or go to step 2). Right and left pedals have different threads. They are tightened to the front (direction of travel) and loosened to the rear. e.g. the left pedal unscrews clockwise.
Step 2: If you, under step 1, concluded that pedals are making noise, you can re-grease and set the pedal bearings to try to fix them.
Links:
Video: Remove pedals (UDC UK)
Video: Pedal adjustment (UDC UK)
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Rim brakes
Problem:
Rim brakes rubs the rim. This is not necessarily visible as the frame and wheel can flex a little.
Solution:
Check that the bearing housings are not loose. If they are, tighten.
Remove, or adjust the rim brakes all the way out, to check. If the noise goes away, true the wheel and/or adjust the brake.
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Disc brake
Problem:
Brake pads are rubbing the disc brake rotor. Brake pads can be worn down, but then the noise will only appear while braking.
Solution:
Check that the bearing housings are not loose. If they are, tighten.
Make sure the disc is running straight. If not, there are several vidoes available on how to true a disc rotor. The easiest is of course to get a new one.
It can be hard to see the brake pads properly, so you should remove the wheel or the brake calipers to check if they are worn down. If so, replace them (you may also have to replace the disc rotor).
Adjust the calipers. The easiest way is probably to loosen the calipers, squeeze the brake lever, and then tighten the calipers.
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Tyre Part II (tire , dekk )
Problem:
The tyre rubs the frame.
Solution
If the clearing between the tyre and the frame is very tight, and the frame and wheel flex a little, it is possible that the tyre rubs the frame. This can be hard to detect. You can check for rub marks on the frame, or you can mount a camera on the frame.
You can try to true the wheel/adjust the spoke tension, but you may need a smaller tyre or larger frame.
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Spokes
Problem:
Spokes making noise because of slack or dissimilar tensioned spokes, or because spokes are not relieved. It can also be that the spoke crossover points are making noise.
Solution
True the wheel and adjust the spoke tension. Squeeze the spokes with your hands and put some lubricant on the spoke crossover points.
A good way to stress relieve the wheel is to remove the wheel from the frame, and remove the tyre and cranks, and then stand on the rim while it is on the ground. Put a piece of wood under the axle. After using this tecnique, check that the wheel is true and the spoke tension even steven.
Tip on fixing the wheel: Check the spoke tension, adjust so itās fairly even. True the wheel: Work on the problem which is worse at the moment. Find the spot where the rim is closest to the frame and work on that. Keep an eye on the spoke tension while truing the wheel. And so on.
Links:
Text: Building A Unicycle Wheel - UDC UK
Video: Basic Unicycle Maintenance Workshop - STFU London
Video: Wheel Tightening and Truing
Text: Sheldon Brown Wheelbuilding
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Cranks part I
Problem
Cranks makes noise because of wear, or if they have come loose. Noise found on a powerful downwards stroke of the crank is typical.
Solution
Cotterless crank/axle interface:
Replace crank and pray the hub is not damaged. If you have Profile cranks (48 splines; older Munis), get used to the creaking sound.
ISIS crank/axle interface:
If you have recently changed to different cranks, check if the crank fully seats on the spacer. If there is a gap even with the crank bolt fully tightened, a bigger spacer is needed.
Remove the cranks, clean the crank and the axle, grease the axle, put the cranks back on. Note: cranks should face the weakest point on the rim which is the valve and split in the rim. If you want to rotate, move 180Ā°. Put a drop of threadlocker on the crank bolts. The best is to tighten the bolts to the torque recommended by the manufacturer, but if you use a regular allen key (hex wrench []) and tighten it hard by hand, it should be ok.
If the noise didnāt go away, or if the noise comes back, see āCranks part IIā below.
Important: When you put your cranks back on, make sure you put the left-side crank on the left side, and the right-side crank on the right side, or else your pedals will fall off. The cranks are marked L or R.
Links:
Video: Remove cranks (UDC UK)
Text: How To Change Cranks - UDC UK
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Bearings part II
Problem:
The bearings makes noise even though they appear to be ok.
Solution:
Unless the bearings are new, replace them to make sure. Bearings are relatively inexpensive, and have to be replaced now and then anyway.
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Cranks part II (ISIS)
Problem:
Cranks still makes noise, after going through āCranks part Iā
Solution:
Step 1: Remove the cranks and replace the spacers between the hub and the cranks with the next smallest spacer available, min size = 4.5mm
Step 2: Replace the cranks. Usually the cranks are weaker (?) than the axle, so hopefully only the cranks are damaged.
Important: When you put your cranks back on, make sure you put the left-side crank on the left side, and the right-side crank on the right side, or else your pedals will fall off. The cranks are marked L or R.
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Hub
Problem:
Old hubs made up of several parts bonded or pressed together can make creaking noises.
Solution:
Live with it, or rebuild the wheel with a new hub.
The initial version of this text (above) was written by @UniMyra but we figured it would work best as a wiki post, where any user can add and adjust it. Since I have the required trust level to create that, I am therefore posting it on his behalf.