@UniMyra made a tentative suggestion of considering a layout like this (i.e. one two column table for each type). Thoughts? Or should I just give up on the table format altogether. Either way I will of course incorporate the text and other suggestions from @rogeratunicycledotcom and @johnfoss. They do after all, know their stuff!
||Bearing, but can resonate through the spokes
||Broken external bearing casing normally caused by over tight bearing housings
If people think this is more readable and helps, I will try and fix it up tonight (after work). However, this is of course a wiki, so if someone else wants to take a stab at it in the mean time, I will not be offended.
In some way the likelihood is already covered by the fact that in @UniMyra’s original he ordered them by most likely. So perhaps not needed?
I don’t think we’ll need ‘How common’ as the list will be sorted. I don’t think Sound and Location are necessary either. Cause and Detection can be one (Description) to keep it simple. Like this:
What to do (or remedy?):
I actually think it is useful to separate out cause and detection as it helps understand the problem. Vertical format is good.
A verticalt format can be good if you have a spreadsheet or something, but I think the table above is a bit hard to read with all the narrow columns. I also think it is too ridgid with all the categories. If it’s simple maybe more people will be tempted to contribute. Your input is great BTW.
I couldn’t make a table fit this format (my opinion), so I went ahead and tried to finish what I started. I divided each list item into 3 sections: Problem, Solution and Links with some symbols to make the sections recognizable.
This is just my suggestion. If anyone comes up with an improvement, please go ahead and change whatever you like.
After my last edits, the list should probably be checked for bad english. Same with the content.
I think this list belongs under the category ‘Unicycles and Equipment’, so if you agree @Canapin or @Eric_aus_Chemnitz, could you please move it?
I like the new format. I have done a little editing and expanding. I guess we should all build on it, but it is looking good.
@ruari Is that an Emacs Org table, above? Emacs is my editor, and I use Org tables in a lot of projects.
Ah… emacs… the ‘unicycle of the editor world’ – it requires dedication and persistence to initially ‘get it,’ but once enlightenment comes, it is there for life, and you can’t imagine why on Earth everyone else doesn’t share the same enthusiasm…
I have been an emacs user for ~30 years and I probably now can’t tell you the keystrokes for the things I do every day – they are gone from the conscious and in muscle memory, just like riding on one wheel (my editing proficiency is hopefully better than my unicycling)
Apologies for the brief thread hyjack - ctrl-x ctrl-c
GNU EMACS (acronym)
Generally Not Used Except by Middle Aged Computer Scientists
Nice list you have there. When I saw the headline of this thread some weeks ago, I didn’t want to read it because… my uni’s don’t creak. Well Saturday out of the blue my Nimbus 29" did start creaking very much. I had just cycled up a sandy hill. It creaks only when I put power on the downward motion of the right pedal. I checked all bolts while in the forest and also looked if the bearings had to be tightened, which I did before even I read your list, though I couldn’t find anything loose. As I was riding back to the car over a paved cycle path, the uni was basically level and it didn’t creak, unless I would stand on the pedals again. I could try to ignoring, but creaks mean there is a strain somewhere which will prolly damage it.
After replacing my 32mm bearings and enjoying a couple months of silence, my 24" was creaking again, yesterday. Arggh, I hope the new bearings are not already compromised!
So last weekend out of the blue I had a strange creak on the 29". Yesterday when I wanted to practice my hopping skills on the trials uni, I noticed my left foot slipped on the pedal while riding. It turned out that the pin in the pedal was bent, so not the crank. I thought those pins would be strong enough for hopping. I use the trials around x-mas a lot for learning to ride backwards, but then I was mostly just riding. I think it is very strange that it now is bent. It should be able to handle my 85kg.
I was wondering, can unicycle pedals with pins also be bought in a local bike shop? So are they the same as can be found on bikes? Then I can just get a new pedal already today and don’t have to wait when ordering through municycle.com, which I would do otherwise.
Sure, they are just normal pedals. Nothing special about them. One of my unis runs pedals I just picked up locally from a sports store.
Crap forgot that we are in lockdown, meaning all non-essential shops are closed until further notice. I don’t think the government sees unicycling as something essential. Bike Shops are only open to peeps who need their bikes for going to work and something needs to be fixed.
I just tried unscrewing the pedal from the crank, but it was superstuck. Finally it came off and I had destroyed the threading of the crank as well. Great. Now I need new pedals AND new cranks
You might be able to save the crank using a threading tool.
We have the same rules in Germany, and I may have had succes with asking the guys in the workshop for a specific part, and they sold me one.
It’s unlikely that you completely destroyed the thread, usually just cleaning it up works. Normally just a brush to get the metal shavings away, then if there is anything funky a nail to get any burrs off, and only in the worst case you’d need to have a bikestore chase the thread with a tap.
I find it very difficult to match the creak of the 29" Nimbus to any of the possible areas that are mentioned in the first post of this thread. I have been riding my Nimbus 29" for 5 years and rode a few thousand kilometres with it. The tire is starting to look worn too. I’m not a technical rider or hop with it most of the time. Just ride 10-15 kms with it every session. Anyways last month all of a sudden after a climb of a sandy hill, it started to creak. First not very much, but more and more as I got back to the car. I put it in the shed and didn’t want to ride it until yesterday. At every pedal downstroke (more on the right hand side than the left hand side), it creaks very loudly. I checked all the bolts and the wheel rotates freely just fine. Also the spokes seem to be ok. There is no play when rotating the wheel with my hands and trying to apply some sideways pressure. Only once I get on (and standing up, so not touching the seat), it creaks very much. My thought is that it can be the hub, but I don’t know how much a hub can creak. I fear that if I ignore it, which is hard because it is so loud, that I will run the hub out of the wheel, if that even is possible.
Has anyone had similar issues with a Nimbus 29"? As the creaking only happens as soon as I sit on it and try to take off, it will be difficult for an LBS to figure out why it creaks I reckon. They always look a bit funny at me when I enter their stores with a uni and they can’t ride themselves.