UDC stock the shim… at least we do in the UK. I am certain they do in the US, but confess being unable to find it at the moment. The alternative is to get a 27.2 seatpost from a BMX shop, it is a standard size. This being said, I am sure it will not be long before we have them in stock… it is a new products and we just forgot about this option - too much to think about. :-S
Weight of the shadow handle quoted is for the whole lot. Both handles at full length. I know Dave Panther has posted a long review and you can see from his comments it goes a lot lighter when trimmed for riding.
Yes the seat fits with both new and old bases. (2 lots of holes on the rear support).
I just got notice that apparently the Eclipse frame is NOT compatible with 2.1" freestyle tires.
That is very disappointing.
@Roger: Can you comment on that? Is this a manufacturing error or an oversight in the frame specifications? Or do you not care? That would surprise me, because many freestyle riders like the larger tires.
It blows my mind that someone would put so much effort into creating such a great freestyle unicycle, and then fail at such a basic detail. For me this renders the frame almost useless. The difference to a 1.95" tire isn’t that dramatic but certainly noticeable, and I simply hate the idea of spending money on a “downgrade”.
The frame is designed to fitting the 1.95 tyre with a 10mm clearance, this should gives 4mm clearance with the 2.1 tyres on the same rim.
The problem is that both the rim and the tyre batch changes the tyre width and height. The frame was tested with the Nimbus rim and Primo Wall 2.1 and it fits. What combination of tyre and rim are you having problems with?
Thanks for the quick reply, your answer gives me hope.
I didn’t test it personally, but Roland tried it today. I’ll ask him about the combination.
Personally I now prefer the Gusset Pimp over the Primo. When I switched from the Primo to the Gusset I didn’t notice any change in frame clearance, so I hope the Gusset would work with the Nimbus rim as well. In my current wheelset, I have the Sun BFG rim.
I guess measuring the size of my wheelset with enough precision to verify if it fits would be tough.
First thing to note: I’m pretty excited about the 36 Impulse!
But I have one lingering concern, which I’ve been mulling over, and over, and over. . . and although Roger addressed my concern in the prior post, I’ve got to ask it again: Is the wheel really strong enough after you’ve dished it to make room for the disk? I know bikes do fine with rear dished wheels, but on a uni I would think there is a lot more stress on the single wheel, so my instincts are giving me some concern here. Anybody else have thoughts? Roger, perhaps more details on the extent and type of testing?
what are you going to be doing to this poor wheel? it’s not the dishing that will make it easier to fail as much as how big it is, lateral forces like coming down on it sideways will be problematic on the 36er, so if you do it, come down wrong on the right side! I’ve ridden tons of dished 26, 29, and 700cc wheels off road with no issues, you’ll be fine. it’s not like UDC didn’t put the thing through the wringer across three years of development. I’ve had lots of luck with Nimbus and UDC… they have my trust! if you’re worried about dish, there’s always the competing disk, but if you can get the whole package and you’re going to throw down on a new rig, it’s a no brainer.
Let’s be realistic here; unicycle.com doesn’t exactly put things through the wringer before they release them. Ask anyone who had a T7 handle. They develop a handful of prototypes and have a handful of good riders riding them for a few months. That doesn’t tell you much about what will happen when you have 1000 production units out there being abused by the general public.
In general, the wheel builds coming from unicycle.com are factory-quality (that is, not great), so I think there’s a legitimate concern as to the robustness of a dished 36" wheel. Dished bike rear wheels are not a good analog for dished unicycle wheels; unicycle wheels carry 100% of the rider+cycle weight, don’t have shocks to absorb impact, and are more likely to be exposed to side forces than a rear bike wheel. In addition, they’re not 36" in diameter.
There will be more wheel tacos with this design; the only question is whether it’s 5% more or 25% more. I don’t think we’ll know that until we have a lot of experience in the field.
I finally got the Eclipse.
The frame is really nice. It’s comforatable to stand on, and the reinforced construction of the crown seems very trustworthy. It also looks great.
Due to the clearance issue I went with the 1.95" Kenda Karumba tire. It’s to early for a verdict, but the reduction in size compared to a 2.1" tire is noticeable. I’ll probably get used to it, but I’d still prefer the bigger one. Clearance with this tire is excellent (see picture). My older frame has about the same clearance with the 2.1" Gusset Pimp, and that frame is about 5mm higher.
The cranks look nice and beefy (my previous Japanese Al cranks were thinner and got slightly bent). They are also great to stand on. Now I’m curious how robust the wheelset will turn out.
If no robustness issues show up over time then this is in my opinion the best freestyle unicycle on the market. The reduced weight makes it wonderful to ride. Excellent work
I don’t think I’ve heard any any 36ers being tacoed since the days of the original single-walled steel coker rim. A primary reason for using extra wide hubs with 36ers is to reduce wheel flex which is less of a problem when you replace rim brakes with disk brakes.
…so, these wheels are definitely weaker, but I think there’s a good chance that they’re still more than adequate for their intended use. But yeah, with any new product, we won’t really know until they’re tested by the masses.
“better” has to do with what set of compromises you’re more comfortable with, and both these designs are compromises. For road riding and even 36er MUni, I think I’d go with the Nimbus design (disk inside the frame, use any ISIS cranks you want, but reduced wheel strength.
For real MUni, where wheel strength is paramount, Mountainuni is the obvious choice.
From pictures on the UDC it looked like the seatpost tube dropped all the way through the crown and was welded on the bottom as well as the top, but after you posted that picture it doesn’t look like it goes all the way through. Does anyone know how the crown is constructed? Is the seatpost tube just welded to the top of the crown? What’s the bead on the bottom for?
It looks like the seatpost tube indeed drops through the crown and ends at the lower welds. These smaller welds are present on both sides. I think I also saw an inner reinforcement tube in the frame section (maybe only the reinforcement tube sticks through?).