Schlumpf 2022 Build Questions

Wow they are both impressive innovations! Maybe something to consider for my flikflok

Thanks for your reply and input.

I do get that a good wheel build is key to any wheel running true.

I guess I’m still wondering if those aiming for a Braus 36” Schlumpf if they’d prefer:

A) A brand new OldSkool hub (2015 version) with BrakeFast adapter- which gives slightly better spoke angles (I think)


B) 2022/23 32h 100mm hub laced directly to the Braus rim - with slightly narrower flange measurements and possibly weaker spoke angles.

I guess it could be much of a muchness - and the BrakeFast is an additional component being bolted into the mix which isn’t as secure has a new hubs drilled at 32h natively.

My second guess is - BrakeFast now solely serves the purpose of upgrading older hubs to use discs so people can still make sure of them - but that is would never be classed as “better” than the new 32h 2022/23 100mm hubs.


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Choice B seems better to me. At least for the argument of the assembly and disassembly of the brakefast which is tedious. You have to consider that the maintenance of the hub is necessary at some point, at which point you have to disassemble the BF.

About the spoke tension, I’m waiting to see… I hope it’s not so bad… :thinking:

Indeed, I planned to mount a 36" braus rim with the new schlumpf hub (disc and 32h).
At first, I thought to mount this hub with a 29" rim, but I revised my plans with the delay of delivery of the new hubs.


I am planning to mount a 36" Braus rim on a new hub. We’ll see how it works - and I hope spokes will break less often than with a BrakeFast!


*I have run a search on this but nothing has come back, so please let me know if I need to check somewhere else on the site.

I have a new KH 36", a 600 series Schlumpf hub was just installed, and we are having an issue with the disk brake mounting. It looks like the screws holding the disk to the crank arm stick out to the point that a spacer is needed, but with the spacer from the Spirit hub the crank arm is sticking too far out to completely grip the ISIS threads. My bike shop is saying (also based on their interpretation of the paperwork included with the unicycle, that I would need to sand down the sides where the frame holds the hub by about 5mm. Is this correct? Just before I completely void the warranty, I know someone has had to have run into this issue. Image included in case I did a poor job explaining the part that I would be lowering.

To fit a disc brake on a #600 Schlumpf hub, you’ll need either to sand down the frame or use spacers. The second solution is rarely the one that is used as the spacers have to endure a lot of stress so they tend to break.
If you want to run a disc brake on a Schlumpf hub without any modification, you need at least a #800. Please see this topic to know more about changes from a hub generation and the next one.


I think this video shows the filing down that was needed.

I am sorry to be the person to say this - but if I was using hub that was even technically compatible with the KH spirit cranks - I wouldn’t. It seems to me too risky - and I’d opt for maguras or BrakeFast.

Hope you get it sorted :pray::gear:

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I agree with you. External disc brake on a Schlumpf hub is pretty nasty.


Thanks for the feedback. To clarify (in simpleton terms), are you saying I should install a rim brake instead of disk?

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Rim brake if your frame and wheel rim allow. It’s just simpler and you’re still grabbing the main rotating force.

Or rebuild the wheel with the BrakeFast - but this is more ghetto and complexities abound.

But if you want a disk this is it for all the symmetrical hubs.

In all honestly I get that the external system can work, but I wince when I see it as it feels like asking for premature hub failure.


Perfect. Looking at frame, it looks like there is a mount for the rim brake, and I am all for less modifications. I’m also up for advice, as while this is something I have dreamed about for 10 years, I by no means have a solid understanding of the process. I will pivot to the rim brake for now. Thanks for the quick feedback! I super appreciate it. :pray:


Just so you’re 100% sure. Your frame will need sometimes that looks like this for Magura and your rim will basically need to be a Dominator2/Stealth Nimbus rim so there’s somewhere for the brake to land its pads.

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Not exactly that, but I will check with my bike shop. They would know better than I would.

Sadly that looks like it only has the routing for brake hose.

Does it have two tabs for disc brakes on the left and right?

I am guessing it is the new version - so it would be ready for an inboard disc which what the BrakeFast system sets up.

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Ya, I had a feeling it wasn’t that. Yes, 2 tabs for disk. This is from the shipment that got in December, so it would be the new version.

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Mmm if your wheel is already built then I’d say just ride it without any brake, esp if you’re new to riding a Schlumpf.

Once in the zone and hooked - then you can look at the process of either taking wheel apart and rebuilding with a BrakeFast or take the calculated risk of filing and using the outboard KH Spirit cranks system.

Both options require work and modifications. BrakeFast is a bit harder to achieve but you have the second tab on this frame so that part is much easier.

You have options - so that’s good :+1:

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Thanks for this response and sorry for not acknowledging before.

I can see the logic here and fingers crossed the tension works out nicely in the end. Just wish there were double butted spokes long enough for 36” wheels.

This is also good to hear - and thanks also for the response!

It did get me wondering if the spokes braking could mean there’s a risk of a flange hole being ripped open.

Where did they break out of interest?

My pondering here is that in some ways I’d rather the BrakeFast were damaged than a new £2700 hub’s shell being ruined. (But if this is unlikely then it’s just a case of dealing with spoke replacements and the like.)

If I’m not much mistaken the weak flange holes were on older generation hubs so all being well these 2023 versions will be even more refined / reinforced :gear::crossed_fingers:

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Sometimes they break on the BrakeFast holes, other times next to the nipples.

Sure. This should have been resolved since gen 3: 📜 [Wiki] Schlumpf hub serial numbers reference

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I think for me, the spokes always broke at the J-bend of the spoke.

On the latest version (800-1000) of the schlumpf hub, the flanges are screwed to the hub body. If they are damaged, they can be replaced separately.


Thanks both. That’s great to know! These are going to be a big jump forward in terms of build quality from my 200 series :grin: