Schlumpf 2022 Build Questions

I’m sure it will be fine, the stuff is all built to standards. It is nice to tinker with the bits you have though when waiting for the other stuff.

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Once again a build musing.

I have a set of KH Spirits 117/137, and 125/150s

Is the logic that shorter cranks are in some ways a more logical fit for smaller wheels?

As in:

24” gets 137
29” get 150

These would be for geared wheels of course so this might skew the equation.

I love riding my fixed 29er with 137s. But wonder if I’m geared mode I’d benefit more using the 125/150 option.

Never ridden a 24” with 137 - always 125/150, but wondering if when geared it would be better to give it the shorter crank option. And have the G29er run 125/150s mainly for more control, climbing options and overall high gear confidence.

Just a thought that has been rattling around my head as for ages I was set in putting 125/150s on the soon to arrive G24 and 117/137 on the G29…

But I am wondering if sensible / logical - and I don’t want to be swapping cranks much either.


It all depends on what kind of riding you do. Here is the handy dandy chart:


Hi Felix,

You want to build two schlumpf unicycle ? A G24 and a G29?

For crank lengths, what I can tell you is that I only use one length on a geared unicycle. I love to ride G29 / 150 mm, it goes everywhere and it’s fast when you need it. It is really versatile.

But about the G24. I think it’s not a good wheel size to ride with schlumpf. The small size of the wheel means that the obstacle clearance is bad. With the speed you can reach in 2nd gear it can be tricky.
When you are a bit apprehensive, it can be a nice exercise, not to take too much speed and stay close to the ground.


Thanks so much for the insights.

Yeah I have to confess it a G24 is on the roadmap. I have always coveted the small portable uni-size and from some reports of those that ride them it seems to have some cool spaces for interesting rides - but I can see your point about riding on uneven terrain making it trickier in high gear.

Perhaps I should also go with 150 cranks for more control.

I think I also liked the idea of a smaller wheel for the confidence that it can give in terms of being nearer the ground and possibly more useful for practicing shifts and technique. It just feels like a unicycle I’d take on a Train or a Plane or in a rucksack even and usable in more urban settings - where a G29/G36 just feel too big.

I am a huge fan of my fixed 29er as a do-it-all size so I am totally sure the G29er will end up the most used.

I feel sure now it’ll be getting the 125/150 cranks :gear::rocket::pray:


Yes, this is all helpful stuff.
I got to say, I have no idea about schlumpf hubs so could do with all the advice I can get about what to build.
I got some advice earlier on but might ask again with a bit of description of my skill level now.
I ordered a 125mm length hub. Thinking to build a G36 with crank Nimbus VCX triple holes 114/142/170. Keeping my KH36.
170mm could help with learning. 142mm may be the end goal. 114 for some crazy speed runs if I ever want in the future. With the nimbus crank there is higher possibility for accidental “ button press”? But I like the hole distances. Might just set the gearing and remove the button. Is it feasible to roll mount a g36 set high gear with 142 cranks?

Might get the oracle 36” frame and maybe a hatchet frame as both have 125mm frame spacings. Will these be ok for brake tabs in right location for schlumpf. Will consider a flansbrrrium frame too.
What about triton titanium, anyone know about them?

I feel comfortable at 22km/hr on bike lane / loop around centennial park. Have never upd’ed at speed, only on hills. I enjoy hill climbing with my KH36 and on commutes encounter 200m long hills with 15% grade in places. I can hop gutters and tree branches 1” diameter.

After last advice, I was feeling confident to go for G36. Forget smaller sizes.
I only use my KH29 for short rides, less than 5km and skateparks, backwards riding. Practicing new stuff before trying on the 36”.

I’ve been spending most time on a KH36 with 125mm crank length.
For the last couple of months, my weekly “mileage” is 50 to 100km.
Made up of commuting to work 14km (9 miles) elevation gain 150m(500ft) each way 3 days a week mon, wed, fri. And 15km ride on weekend.


It’s hard to give personalized advice.

For someone who has never ridden a schlumpf, it doesn’t seem like a good idea to start with a G36.

I know few unicyclists who ride a schlumpf and don’t know how to shift gear. I have never tried to start in 2nd gear on my G36. I consider that it’s already very hard in G29. However, I find it much easier to learn to shift than to ride in 2nd gear.

If the 29" is a toy for you, then you can have even more fun practicing on a G29.

As for the double or triple insert cranks, I find them more useful on an ungeared unicycle than on a schlumpf unicycle.


I have started with a G36 but I’d mainly agree with @toutestbon for general case. However, if you daily ride a 36er, you may be more comfy on a 36er than on a 29er - that was my case. So starting with a G36 could be an option. Maybe not the best one, but you’ll definitely master the beast.

I often do it on a G36/137, but it requires some training.

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I’m minimally experienced with an older schlumpf. It’s a G29. I wear size 39 shoes (and sometimes 40) and there is no way I could shift on 150mm cranks, 150mm cranks are just too long to shift for me for my shoe size. I would have to be pedalling on my toes to then shift with my ankle. 142mm would also be too long.

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My thoughts (I have very limited schlumpf experience)
Very good with the speed, not sure how you manage that, guess you’ve just been riding so much you vastly improved :slight_smile:
Great job with the hills. Means you have great strength to spin a schlumpf in gear.
Great job with the gutters. With tree branches, I am confused, couldn’t you just roll over a 1" tree branch? (2.54cm?) Or do you mean 1’ (30cm).

One thing to be aware of with schulmpfs, there is freewheel play. A bit disconcerting at first but as you do have a freewheel (not sure how much you used it), that aspect of it will be covered.

Thanks for the insights.
With a 125mm schlumpf hub, my options for a 29” frame would be a Custom Flansberrium?
I might get a Nimbus Hatchet frame. 26”

With G36 I’m really not that fussed about changing gears on the “fly”.
As I have to dismount a few times during commute for intersection crossings and stretching. I might just try to start with g36 and be prepared for longer learning phase and worst case get a hatchet frame if I can’t get going with g36.

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I think given that you have the 125 hub which is ideal for a 36er going with that is wise and likely the most enjoyable option.

I always feel with unicycle sizes, that 19”-29” are in the increment spectrum where they are different from each other - but also share the same sense of being unicycle wheels growing in size.

And then there’s the 36” which to my mind just isn’t in the same space and those below it.

Meaning - as I can already see you know, the 36er is kind of a stand alone unicycle experience. It doesn’t relate or compare to the sizes below it. It is in effect King :prince:

If I were to say to anyone what two unicycle sizes are “essential” to own - I’d says 36”+[any of the 19”-29”]

I suspect from my brief time aloft on a G36er that once you get the muscle memory wired for riding it in high gear - you just won’t look back.

A bit like when I first rode my first KH36. It was a whole new universe of moving forward on one wheel.

I have been helped up in high gear as I’m the kind of person who needs to know what high feels like before I can focus on going for it with an upshift. And trust me the wheel feels soooo heavy when you try and heave yourself up onto it from stationary in high. But then it does start to click and the advantages of the wheel size will come to your aide.

I think the point made from Simon about the 24” size for a geared wheel is worth mentioning again:

The bigger the wheel - technically the easier or shall we say more rideable is the 1:1.5 ratio of the Schlumpf.

You have the downside of being up high and it being hard to start in high gear - but the natural momentum of the wheel is going to play into the hub’s gearing advantage.

I still want to work with riding a G24 which I am sure will be twitchy and more skittish.

But a G36 is clearly king when it comes to distance and cadence cruising!

There is a way to hand shift floating around on the internet. With a hand shift the shoe size would not be an issue.

Oh yes, I remember the first time getting up on my KH36 and riding around a field with a hard grassy surface. Was hooked from that moment.

From my experience with “hard” upd’s on 29” and 36” onto the road, I found that with the 29”, I had less (no) time to react and went down onto elbow knee and wrist. With 36” being higher, I have always landed on feet then fallen forward onto knees and hands (with kneepads and wrist guards), a more controlled upd.


Are there people here who are planning to build up a new schlumpf hub (32h) with the 36” Braus rim?

Meaning 100mm width but using the new hub design?

I have a feeling / recall from threads and other discussions that the BrakeFast 32h adapter built up a better, stronger wheel due to flange spacing being wider(?)… and the new hubs for a 36” wheel on the 32h/100mm option being seen as likely a weaker option for this size wheel.

Or is it the case that with the BrakeFast being an add on adapter with its own weaknesses - would the strength advantage from the BF (if there is one) spoke angle / wheel build wise, be in effect cancelled out by the BF’s inherent adapter weakness?

That’s a faffy way of me trying to ask:

Old Hub + BF adapter + Braus rim

versus —

New 32h 100mm hub + Braus rim

Is the BF option still the stronger wheel build route?

I am now using elastic spokes in my 36er 100mm hub. I’ve solved months of issues having spokes elongatin in such a crazy setup with almost vertical spokes using an inner disc hub… a good built wheel with steel spokes is a lot easier than mine. No way a steel spoke wheel is weak if it is well built. So don’t mind 100mm inner disc hub: they work great if the wheel is well build. A symmetric wheel is a must only if you can’t get a good strong wheel… a symmetric hub will make it easier to achieve an average built wheel

I also wear size 40 and i can shift on 150s with my ankle wearing five ten impact high shoes.


Have you actually seen a clever solution to this somewhere? I cant see anything from a quick search and I cant imagine how that would be possible?

If you’re on Facebook:


Here is a photo but I don’t find where it came from. (I added the notes)