That’s incorrect. The wheel will need to be dished just like all unicycles with internal disc brakes (and most wheels for regular bikes). The end result will be a wheel where the rim and tire is centered in the frame.
It helps to get slightly more even spoke tension in the dished wheel. And I don’t think it’s possible to get rims with larger offset.
There are not many 29" 36h offset rims. Custom carbon rims is an option. From e.g. Light Bicycle
Do people know if the KH Freeride rim is designed for / intrinsically better for symmetrical builds.
Would this rim work well with the off set we have with the inboard disc of the schlumpf hub?
My head says the Dominator2 in the more clearly tough and used in dished wheels option - but I do tend to prefer the design of KH gear… just by a hair or so, but still tend to prefer. But I’d go Dominator2 if it is better with dished wheels for sure!
Decision, decisions.
The generation rim in the picture is a fairly generic rim with some holes drilled out - really nothing special about it. It will work just fine in an asymmetric build, if you don’t plan to do big drops regularly I would not worry about it at all.
And even if, Mad4one has had similar rims (possibly even from the same extrusion) in use on asymmetric wheels for a long time and I have not heard of any trouble, just make sure the wheel is well built.
You won’t have any problem to mount your wheel, but to ride with a schlumpf I wonder if you need such a wide rim.
If you want to ride on paths, I would recommend the dominator2.
Thanks for this bit of advice. I see your point here, and yes paths would be the focus. So a narrower rim would make more sense especially if I want to run narrower tyres.
Cheers!
The 47mm wide KH rim with holes, i.e. the previous generation, was and still is a remarkable rim given the width and strength it provides at that weight.
The 46mm mad4one rim is similar, yet different. It’s a bit heavier and the holes are slightly smaller.
And the dominator is an even stronger rim, a very heavy DH rim.
There are different opinions on matching unicycling rim and tyre width. I comfortably ride tyres as narrow as 2.4inch on a rim such as the 47mm KH rim.
Working on the wheel build. 29" wheel max spoke tension=120kgf
0 offset 120kgf 53kgf.
3mm offset, 120kgf / 76kgf.
6mm offset 120kgf / 90kgf. (found a custom 42mm carbon that can be drilled @6mm)
As long as it’s for off-road riding at low pressure, there’s no worries.
But above 40 psi, there are risks of blowout. I know a lot of unicylists who had problems (including me), especially with schwalbe big apple and supermoto tires (29"x2.35"). I would avoid testing with their successor, the schwalbe g-one.
In my opinion, such wide rims must be reserved for off-road use.
I had the Schwalbe Big Apple on my 29er inflated to 3bar and loved it and it never blew. I only took it off to use an MTB Tire for some muni.
Anyone know if KH Moment cranks work with the latest Schlumpf hubs - 2022 included?
I ask as I have a pair of Moments that I like and would take off of another unicycle, but I know that the newer hubs have crank stops/spacers and I know that Moments are the oddity regarding spacer sizing - think they take 8mm whereas KH Spirits take 6mm.
So the question really is does anyone know if the previous version of the hub (before 2022) come with spacers that were aimed at working with Spirit cranks only, or can it work safely with Moments?
My M00122 came with 2 pairs of moment cranks. 165 and dual hole 125/150, I didn’t check spacer sizes just pulled off the 165’s and changed it to the dual holes. I also have 2 pairs of spirits that I use on my ungeared 36" 110/127 & 127/150 but decided to keeps moments on the guni.
Thanks for the reply.
That era hub as with my 200series doesn’t use any spacer so Moments will work.
I am just unclear on how the newer series of hubs that do have a space work as I can’t find any details as to the spacers sizing.
I suspect I’ll play it safe and use Spirits as that is likely what the hub and the spacer were aimed at being paired with.
Rather then assuming that any combination of axle/crank uses a specific size of spacer it would likely make sense to do the hand push on and measure method to determine the correct spacer size. Based on small differences in manufacture and/or wear in the parts the only sure method to size spacers is to follow the ISIS guideline.
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