Great to hear the spoke cutting story. Nice that it was sorted cheaply in the end 
UDC UK used 13g washers like this:
https://www.unicycle.co.uk/spoke-washers.html
Whereas for the smaller wheels Ryan from RyanBuildsWheels used 14g from Sapim I believe.
But anything that looks like those pictures I think would do.
I would probably disagree with you there – they have to be the proper size for the gauge of the spoke so that the spoke head sits in them properly. Likewise you don’t really want something too big or it will probably end up not being fully concentric with the head of the spoke and won’t look very good and annoy you every time you look at it.
Hi @Unicyc - I got my brass washers from that WA online spoke supplier, and they seemed OK (like the pic from @mindbalance ). Regarding where they are needed - NOT on the disc rotor flange which is way too thick, in fact I had gotten 36 brand new spokes of the correct lengths, but found that the disc side “head in” spokes would be very stressed when bent in towards the center line of the rim as the J-bend part was short (yes, spoke specs can vary in many ways, and bicycles normally have thinner flanges), so I had some old unicycle spokes re-cut and threaded, because they had a slightly bigger J-bend dimension, better suited to the thick flange (so now some of my spokes are black, as I used a mix of spokes - the originally newly purchased spokes were better suited to the “head out” situation). The angles would be different on your bigger wheel, but it would be worth double checking early in the lacing. I guess considerations like the size of the J-bend could influence whether washers are used as well.
I decided to use just one layer of Schlumpf rotor spacers, I maybe could have got away with no spacers, but the spacer layer meant the caliper pad adjustment was pretty much in the middle of its movement in the slot. I used the original 12mm Torx screws to install the rotor, with red Loctite.
My brake system seemed to have lost some oil during frame storage, so I syringed in some new mineral oil and replaced the pads (resin pads).
I had no issue with the “head in” spokes on the non-disc side hitting the frame, although there was not a lot of clearance. (btw my build is a 125 hub, 26in rim, and frame from what was once a nimbus 32 unicycle, using nimbus VCX 150 cranks with plastic nimbus pedals having the plastic pins filed down a bit).
When installing the cranks, I didn’t use a spacer (but I reckon it is better to have one, nevertheless - especially as the adjacent Schlumpf bearing protector rings can move). The gap after banging the cranks together protected by wood blocks and then a bit of final tightening seemed to be 3mm on each side for me. Before doing the cranks, I smoothed the area where the crank bolt head made contact by spinning it around a bit while pressing it in (by being very careful and selecting a tool with the best fit I luckily avoided any deformation).
The hub bearing fitting was a bit anxiety provoking - it is surprisingly hard to be sure the pin is fitting into the 6.2mm hole. When doing the spoke tightening and trueing it is very important to get it in and fairly tight (but not too tight) so the alignment will be right. And when finally assembling the completed wheel, I used blue Loctite on the bearing caps.
It seems like every build is a slightly different journey, but I hope the above information can help someone else.
If I could presently justify the cost, I would have responded “SOLD! Send it to me!”. I realize I am currently a focus group of one, but I have to assume there is another 27.5 rider out there like me that had also ordered a Maxxis Hookworm (or similar tire) to install on their 27.5 in order to put a lot of road miles on it.
My only fear is that if I did order that wheel with the Schlumpf, I might never install my regular fixed Dominator2 wheel again. 
Quick question. Does that wheel include a disc hub with rotor?
Yes, this is a disc hub and comes with the rotor.
G36 Wheel building today.
Thanks Roger for the clear instructions in your YouTube video, just in time for me.
Progress, using the spoke tensionmeter tool gave me some confidence the spoke tensions were equal per side.
Jacob was “spot on” with his design of the frame on the non-disk side, allowing for Spoke clearance.
That! Is a thing of beauty 
Really enjoy seeing this one coming slowly together!
Really pleased you liked the video and it helped you. 
I ordered these bolts and after a couple of weeks they arrived today.
I’m thinking of using these instead of the Schlumpf supplied bolts.
They look like a hardened steel bolt, but I haven’t progressed to trying to use them yet.
The M14 thread fits the schlumpf. The thread is longer by 3mm, the head is 0.5mm thicker and Dia 24mm. That would need to be grinded to Dia 21mm to fit the VCX Crank. Not sure if the heat generated by grinding would affect the steel.
Schlumpf Bolt
BMX bolt
BMX Bolt in VCX Crank
Schlumpf Bolt in VCX crank
BMX bolt in VCX crank
Schlumpf Bolt in VCX crank
I will probably just used these BMX bolts as pre-tightening bolts. I’ll look for appropriate washer.
Due to the 24mm dia head, I will try use without the head fitting in side the crank and the bearing surface is the outside.
It’s funny you post this - I was thinking while doing my last install that adding washers to the stock Schlumpf bolt during the initial install could help.
It seems to me that the main area where the pre-tightening bolt helps is by raising the surface / socket area up and above the shifting rod.
The fact the shifting rod pushed the wrench when installing using stock bolts seem to me to be a big cause of rounding.
So perhaps using two or so washers that fit the ID of the crank hole and have a hole that just a bit bigger that the bolt’s OD could work.
Bit like your idea with your BMX bolts but perhaps simpler.
As long as you grind a little and let it cool or cool it with a blast of air or water you should not affect the steel. Hardened steel is ground all the time with just a little care to avoid changing the hardness.
Hello, I got the new Schlumpf geared hub and want to mount it on a 29 KH unicycle. I just want to confirm, I need 2 x 18 new spokes, one a little longer and the other a little shorter bcs of the brake disk. Correct?
I used the unicycle spokes calculator and it gave me 278,6 and 276,5 mm spoke length.
It depends on the KH rim, there are 3 différent models : cross-country 38mm, freeride 47mm, and last one is 55mm
I have the 47 mm, I chose freeride 2017 on the calculator. The asymmetry will be there anyway, right?
All builds with an inner disc brake will be asymmetric. Even with an offset rim (where spokes are not centered) you will just get a little less asymmetry and you will still need different spoke length left and right.
Btw. (you probably already know this) but an older KH frame is not a great fit for the new Schlumpf hub as you cannot mount it with an inner disc brake unless using a d-brake adapter, which might work just fine, but not something I would do with such an expensive piece of equipment. New KH frames have disc tabs on both sides and are obviously fine for a Schlumpf 2022 build.
You’re wrong
Freeride 2017 KH rim is the 55mm
You need to select Freeride rim (= 47mm)
It’s all a bit odd.
https://www.unicycle.co.uk/unicycle-parts/rims/29-kris-holm-freeride-rim.html which is the 55mm rim.
States the ERD is 595.6 which is what you get when you select from the spoke length calculator the option with “2017”
The one without any any year date gives the ERD of: 599.7
However on Rims | Kris Holm Unicycles - we can see that the 55mm 29” rim has a listed ERD of 599.7.
In short somewhere the data is wrong. I’d suggest @Alemkar , you message Kris Holm’s site via the support option to check the ERD info for the specific rim you’re using - and when this is all clarified reach back out to Florian to have him update anything that might be misleading in his recent news update (which is presume is from yourself) Florian Schlumpf - Unicycle Hub
Once you know which rim has which ERD for sure - I would also suggest you update Roger at UDC UK so that the spoke calculator can be made a bit clearer / corrected as needed.
Hope this helps!
This thread could also be useful
Lastly the ERD showing on Kris’s site from 2016 for a 47mm 29” rim is showing as: 600
https://web.archive.org/web/20160121034835/http://krisholm.com/en/gear/component/rims
Thank you Wayback Machine.
To be clear I would personally want to double check via a message to the KH site and in fact via using the manual ERD measurement of your rim. You can find lots of YouTube videos on how to measures you’re own rim’s ERD
