Shimano rotors we use for BrakeFast are made of 3 sleeves of different metals: one sleeve of aluminum between two sleeves of stainless. That’s known as Ice Technology.
I’ve still not got my hub - I’ll retrieve it tomorrow 
- but I’m pretty sure Florian have not done the same.
I’m not into CAD, but if any of you wants to go for that projects, I’d be glad to give it a test!
If someone gives me the specs of both bolt circles, I can probably make the CAD drawing happen quite quickly. (I don’t really feel like trying to measure it from pictures).
I’d be tempted to make it a lasercut steel part, since spacing the disc outwards is already necessary for some setups. Would be less pretty, but a lot cheaper than CNC milling.
That would be great
I have both the rotors but yet to remove the edge section from the Shimano one.
Getting the official file for that would be harder than one for the Schlumpf rotor.
I will see if there’s a way to ask for the Schlumpf rotor’s design.
As for the Shimano one what kind of measurements / details would you need?
I could happily send you both items in the post if physically having them would help.
I like the idea of an adapter cut from steel - with holes drilled to then bolt on or secure with rivets the Shimano part. It could provide a very nice option where you know you can buy an off the shelf rotor and the only hassle is removing its centre section.
I think we’d stick to 203 and only 203!
We don’t need smaller rotors for geared hubs 
Schlumpf_to_Shimanoicetech203.STEP (180.9 KB)
Had some spare time, so I drew up a quick prototype version (I found the dimensions for the shimano rotors on the brakefast documentation), that someone could 3d print to check fitment. As a final piece it could be lasercut/plasmacut from steel (definitely strong enough), or aluminum (maybe not enough thickness to be strong enough).
I would probably just nut and bolt (m6) the connection between the icetech disk and adapter, since there is not really enough thickness for tapped holes.
You can ask Brakestuff to build Rotors for Schlumpf hub. They produce custom rotors. They’re a small German company (based in Saxony).
Maybe someone from this forum could contact Brakestuff to get some info about the cost of discs for our new hubs? So that they don’t receive many messages 
I’ll happily do that once I’ve sussed out the options for an adapter.
I would have to get hold of a full CAD file of the current rotor from Florian with his permission to be able to them go to then I feel.
Or perhaps just the specifications for how it mounts to the hub would be enough.
They look like lovely brakes and it’s nice that such a company exists to cover this kind of need.
I still suspect that for 95% or new hub users the current rotors will be fine. But I still like the idea of using something 100% suited to disc brake wear and tear.
Do you think 95% of the new hub users don’t use the brake? 
It took @Becky98 less than 2 weeks (?) to wear out 3 pairs of pads and 1 disc… I would think that this is going to be a problem for 95% of the users…
No, but I don’t expect the majority to go uni-packing on a trek of more than 800kms.
Again I could be wrong and have my finger on my pulse - rather than that of all the epic geared riders out there.
I always make it clear I’m a beginner rider with little skill in brake usage. It doesn’t stop me from wanting the best however 
I edited the .step file in my original file to make a cosmetic change (the outer cutout pattern somehow moved and was irregular in the original file).
Also made a drawing, so if someone has a Schlumpf hub and a 203mm Icetech rotor, they could print it, cut it out and check fitment. Make sure the print is actually to scale if you do that, it’s not uncommon to encounter some border settings at the printer messing with the scaling.
Schlumpf to 203mm shimano icetech.pdf (33.9 KB)
My main area of concern is the inner interface, since I recreated that from a picture.
(P.S. Any engineers out there, please don’t judge this technical drawing, I am aware that it’s not really up to standard and not properly dimensioned at all.)
Thanks so much Finn.
Yep I’ll get that printed and tested as soon as I can.
I have both parts but just need to borrow an angle grinder to take off the rivets from the Shimano rotor.
It’ll be nice to see if / how it matches up.
Like this combo of parts project too as it feels handy to have shop stock components that one can buy nearly anywhere and make a working rotor.
Has anyone already calculated how long should the spokes be for the Braus rim/100mm 2022 Schlumpf hub setup?
Here’s what I find, but I’d like a double check:
The values I used come from:
The numbers seem fine as they are a little bigger than those for the BrakeFast setup - ~2mm longer - but I’m not expert.
I got similar numbers. I have 359mm and 361mm spokes in the mail.
Thanks! My local Unicycle shop seems to have thois size. My wheel will be easy to build, then. The hard part for me will be to drill my frame. I’m afraid of doing it wrong 
I think the Dishing Offset should be about 8mm rather then 16mm. At least that is the difference (from this drawing) I get from the center of the flanges to the center of the bearings.
The dishing offset from the hub (assuming rim has center line spoke holes) is:
( (D+E)-(B-C)/2
For the OLD? diagram, this gives 8mm.
For the NEW (as at 10May) diagram this gives 11mm.
My 125mm hub that just arrived conforms to the new diagram btw, so I guess the 100mm will too.
The new diagram is now on Florian’s unicycle hub webpage.
Regarding the 6mm frame drilling to hold the disc side bearing, it is a bit scary.
On my Nimbus frame there was already a small hole, so the pilot drill and jig could not be used.
The main possible issue is if the existing hole was not centered left to right in the bearing holder.
I think another issue some people may have is the rotor spacing and the rotor fixing screws.
I got received 3 spacers in the package, each with 3 holes (partially countersunk), that can go on the hub side of the rotor as a layer to move the rotor 1mm outwards. On my frame and caliper, it seemed like I needed the 1mm spacing to properly center the rotor in the caliper without extreme adjustment of the caliper.
However it seemed to me that the 9 provided M4x16 countersunk Torx screws were still a tiny bit too long as they seemed to be “bottoming out” rather than tightening. You would need the longer screws for multiple spacer layers, but for no spacer or one spacer layer, maybe M4x12 would be better.
I’m reasonably sure about the “bottoming out” but maybe I am either unlucky or over-cautious, so I am interested in the experience of others.
You can also source 14mm screws but it seems to be a more unusual length.
As I remember 16mm was bottoming out for me with three spacers on my 100mm hub. However my spacers is probably also slightly less than 1mm each. And I have the initial version of the hub (I’m not exactly sure what was changed in the “later” version)
I’m not sure how you found this mathematical expression. Could you explain it to me like I was five? 
Thanks for the numbers, though
I now get the following values:
They are pretty similar to the last ones, so I guess I’ll be good anyway
It is said that:
The drilling jig is positioned by hand so that the hole to be drilled does not collide with any existing hole.
So I guess you can drill the hole anywhere in the bearing holders and it’ll be OK.
That seems to be the intent from the manual picture, yes:
I am guessing but I suspect they went this route due to some frames having their manufacturing hole off centred.
But I personally would check if there is a hole already there in the right place and if it is hopefully smaller than 6mm.
If it were to be centred and smaller I think I’d look to widened it with the 6mm drill bit.
I have feeling the guidance in the manual is being extra careful not to weaken the bearing mounting area. Which could well be a wise thing to do - but with my Flansberrium frame the hole was drilled right the way through the area so I can’t (personally) see why one couldn’t just widen an already existing, centred hole 
I think I need to drill this hole at some point on a KH frame… and I will probably try and make a video as a how-to. Oddly enough I see the new KH frames have a hole in their caps:
So that would imply we are to secure the retaining bolt in that section.
As it does contradict the manual I would prefer to drill the fork section. For this I would use the little alignment template, secure it on the mount with some clear tape (tight!).
Put fork leg in a vice and get it perpendicular to where you’re aiming to drill. And then set the drill to very low torque or speed. Even if I had one use a hand drill.
Drill the pilot hole only down a smidge. Just enough to locate the tip of 6mm bit and stop it from slipping.
Remove the alignment jig - and then very very slowly drill down straight with the 6mm and keep taking it away to check how deep it’s been going. You can use a small piece of cardboard to check the depth and measure it against the hub’s securement nub/pin.
Fear not @Maxence you clearly have options if you were to get it slightly wrong - but I doubt you will if you go very slow with the 6mm drill bit.
