Nice work Corbin. Its great to have lots of grip options with handlebars and you seem to have kept the weight down at the same time you keep things adjustable. Another Unicycle Bastard here in Portland brazes all his work together too, while I really like welding. Anyway, keep the bronze shiny side up!
B
It’s my KH24 with a Kenda Kinniption tire (sp). I’ll have to take a full picture sometime soon, and at some point I’m going to do a blog-post write up about it, with specific weights of each part.
Re: too busy looking – yes…but, if you take the brake off, and the speedo, it looks less busy. If I take the “close grips” off (they are 100% removable via an attachment I made), it looks even less busy, and makes the setup weigh something like 14 ozs (including the bar ends, but i’m going from memory here, so I may be off).
Re: using the normal plastic front KH handle. This version allows one to still use that handle, but I don’t like it. The bar-ends version allows me to climb steeper hills, and is more ergonomic for how I like to ride (which is generally with both hands on the bars at the same time). It also does weigh more than the KH handle (two bar ends + steel adapter, vs. a plastic piece).
It sounds like you want a version of the T style handlebar that drops on/off really easily. Mine currently requires one to pull the seat out of the seat post tube, and relocate the brake; which isn’t hard, but still takes some time. However, we could make a version that allows the back piece to drop off with 4 bolts, which would eliminate the need for taking your seat off. If it goes out (somewhat) vertically, and has a riser (like this version: Yet another unicycle handlebar – Corbin's Treehouse – except more horizontal for more brake spacing), you could keep the brake on the standard plastic handle. I did try that too, but I found that for high speed riding (mostly road or fireroad), I preferred the brake to be on the further bar ends.
corbin
just another update for this thread
started working on my drawing for my v-frame
its almosted finished at this point
the v-frame will be cnc’d from alumnium
no tubing and the most inportend no welding for this frame
it will be bolted together.
pictures say more than words so i made some print screens for you
the frame is drawd in a 3d drawing program that will make a code for the machine to mill it out
total hourse spend so far: 12 on just drawing the frame
expected machine hourse i gues more than 10 but dont know
pictures’s:
for more pictures:
http://www.unicyclist.com/index.php?page=gallery&g2_itemId=586703
tell me what you think of this
…i’m not sure…maybe we should start a new thread: V-frame!
your concept looks pretty good, i like also the thing of nothing welded…but to you you think there are really to “top tubes” i know those aren’t really tubes… necessary?
a point of bolted frames: the schlumpf ones are all only bolted, no welding, but i think my 28er schlumpf is less stiff than my 29er kh…maybe it’s just me!
another update with my V-project: i’ll pick it up on wedensday (made of two 29er kh frames)
You make some pictures on wednesday, otherwise it didn’t happen 
OK, I will do that…
i agree with you on the point that bolted frames are less stiff although i dont think it will become a problem its designd in such way that i get optimal stiffness
looking forward to see your 2 kh 29 frames togheter
question for jeremy R
what is your plan just a handlebar setup or a v-frame
Sander, looks nice! The bottom part of the frame (below the V) looks rather rigid. Are you sure that the slot, and the width of the parts next to the slot, allow enough movement to clamp around the bearings?
And, to place the wheel, you have to bend the two V-shapes (left and right) outwards, right? Does the stiffness allow that, or would you have to loosen some bolts at the top (which I couldn’t see but I presume they are there)?
Wow, that’s really nice.
I’ve been thinking a little about the adjustment aspect of the V-frame. I’ve found that I’m not needing the height adjustment as much as the reach adjustment. Have you thought using the top tube as the stem/handlebar clamp instead? Similar to what I did with 7-shift?
Ken
just a little bit of dutch for klaas i can explean it than a little bether for him:
hey klaas, het lagerhuis in inderdaad 1 geheel
door de gleuf die er in zit kan ik het lager klemmen.
dit rondje word door de cnc freesbank precies op 42mm gefreesd en moet dus al een goede passing zijn op het lager
for to place the wheel:
its an al bolted design so although you can not see it on the picture everything gets bolted on
part list:
2 bearing house
4 frame legs
2 connectors of the legs
i started today on milling out the legs
while i’am typing its still milling out:D
just made a fast picture of how it was lookinh when i left:
as of the question gizmoduck
i dont plan to use the top tube as stem/ handlebar
with a shifable stem i can ajust the distance plenty i think
Wow! I can’t wait to see how it turns out. Would a manufacturing process like that be more or less expensive than the traditional welded tube frames? Have you ever machined out a unicycle frame before?
i too cannot wait to see this finished product!!
if it turns out well i am sure you would have no problem finding people who would be willing to purchase some of those 
although the manufacturing process of tube frames is alsow expensive to set up mostly because you need a good mall to weld the frames in (to make it straight not bend)
this kind of machining is alsow way to expensive for production
i’am just lucky to have acces to this machine
i have not machined out a unicycle frame like this before but i do have much experince with handlebar setups
almost 2 year of riding and adjusting my ‘‘large’’ handlebar
alsow i modified some other frames that i own
i’am not looking for people to sell this type of frame at the moment
although if this first frame comes out good there is already a plan to make the second for a test if the bearing holders work good on a schlumpf hub
that test will be done by Dustin Schaap because he is lucky to have a schlumpf hub and is living in the Netherlands as well 
alsow i only have 3 weeks of acces to this machine and then it will become harder to find time to make a frame
my excuse for bad englich its not my first:o
update on v-frame
just a little update on the procces of my v-frame
first the bad news
the main engine brook down yesterday of the cnc mill
so the engine was taken of today and shipped to the factory to be made
i dont expect it to be back before friday or monday
this puts my deadline sharper for making the frame and even more for a second frame
some ‘‘good’’ news
made today my tube where the seatpost goes into and the tube where the handlebars come in to.
pictures:
the inside diameter is for a 27.2 seatpost
the inside diameter for the handlebar is 22.2 (normal stem diameter)
the outer diameter is smaller than off the seatpost tube only not at the bottem just to safe weight
hoping to be able to finish this frame at the end of next week
edit:
seems like i can only put one picture in a post?
Where are the pics of Turtle’s frame?
Thats nice, it just needs a powdercoating now and this thing is ready for the road (and dirt)
Looking good there Turtle. Aluminum welding has always been a bit of a mystery to me . . . I have heard that if one wants to bring the frame back up to its original strength, you would need to heat-treat the entire frame after welding on it as you did. Curious if you are going to heat-treat the frame again or ride it as it is??
Brycer1968
thats looking good;)
only the top pice that goes around the tire looks fat to me
already thought of drilling holes?
it will be stiff enouf and you can safe some good weight
even more stimulatian to finsih my frame soon;)
Good stuff turtle but I would be a bit concerned with the bridge part being flat and curved like that. Seems to me like if you put enough spreading force between the saddle and handlebars it could flatten out that bridge ever so slightly putting stress on your join at the bearing housing. I would not be so concerned with a steel frame but aluminum does not like going through stress cycles as much.
I would be tempted to add a tensioned cable just above the bridge so it only really has to deal with compression forces.
That thing does have awesome stand over clearance, I wonder what it would be like to mount it from inside the frame.