Power Meters and Unicycling

SRM have now added crank lengths down to 75mm to their x power pedals app to cater to unicyclists.

If anyone was interested in power meters on platform pedals this is probably the first time it’s been available from a retailer.

SRM are not cheap though.

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/srm-x-power-flat-pedals/

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Have you tried out a pair of assiomas?

I tested mine clipless today…and I was scared out of my mind.

I tried SPD pedals a couple years back, but gave up after one ride. I think I’m giving up again after one ride this time too.

Somewhere along the ride, my right cleat lost one rubber section (probably during a UPD)

Clipless on the left. 7 laps of the hill, 4 in high gear, 3 in low gear.
Flat pedals on the right. 14 laps (7 high, 7 low).
Top two are torque effectiveness. Bottom two are pedal smoothness.
I had higher torque effectiveness and pedal smoothness with flat pedals. This was pretty obvious to me though…I was super tense and scared with the clipless pedals.


I haven’t ridden this hill repeat many times with my bike yet…but from a random bike race I did, torque effectiveness is actually lower. It could be due to being not hilly, or longer cranks.


Very awesome that they updated their app.

Favero Assiomas can only be set to down to 100mm in their app, but is overridden if the cycling computer used to record data also has the ability to set crank length. My Garmins all have a minimum of 110mm.

I asked Favero about it, and they don’t plan on changing it. Luckily though, they mentioned they have a “power scale factor” you can set in the app. Since crank length is directly proportional to power, you could set this to -9% to get a 110mm crank setting to accurately depict power values if using with 100mm cranks. Not as nice of a solution, but it should work I think…

I think the niche market that the SRM flat pedal caters to increased their willingness to change their app to cater to unicyclists, given that adding in extra lengths is such a simple change.

My test went well and I bought a pair of assioma favero duo pedals 6 months ago. I used them this winter and spring with my ungeared 36". And since 8 days, I’m training with it on my G36.

For me it doesn’t change much from SPD (I was using a rather high torque with my SPD pedals, and now I’m at the minimum with the favero assioma). It’s clear that using automatic pedals requires more mental investment.

I have to tell you that when I started training again with the G36, 8 days ago, I had my first a tube explosion (“blow off”) at 32 km/h. It was my fault, I didn’t check my spoking after installing the tire. I rode with an off-center wheel. I think that a sidewall of the tire touched the frame, which helped the tire to come off and the tube to explode.

In short, I slightly burned my elbow and my pelvis during the fall but nothing more. In conclusion, it was pretty reassuring to hurt myself so little with one of the worst falls I can imagine.

True. Favero has a huge market in road cycling already.

Wow, awesome to hear it’s been working.

I’m guessing you wore knee guards, but no elbow/pelvis guards?

I wear knee pads, gloves, elbow pads, helmet and glasses.

I even tested shoulder and pelvis pads, but I don’t wear them anymore.

I recently changed my knee pads, the old ones didn’t fit anymore and I had a knee injury that was difficult to heal after a fall last summer. Now I use ION K-PACT knee pads, it looks big but there is a great freedom of movement (and it is important not to generate injury because of the friction of the knee pads…).

And since my elbow pads are not holding up very well anymore, I also ordered a new pair. I will test the G-FORM PRO-RUGGED.

Otherwise I am happy, I feel that the confidence and the sensations are coming back. I’m starting to find my position and my settings on the G36. It’s nice to see the power data.

I am now looking forward to seeing my progress :sweat_smile:

This is my first ride using the SRM XPower Flat Pedals.

I don’t do a lot of distance riding but it was good to have a go and see what power was like on the 36"

I feel short changed getting 0 Watts on all the downhill bits despite having to work to slow myself down still :sweat_smile:

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That’s awesome to hear it’s worked well for both your ungeared riding and now geared.
Looking forward to seeing more data!

Thanks for your tips on protective gear to.

Yeah…it is quite sad, haha! But very cool!

Well, my power sensor disappoints me this week… on my last 3 rides, there is a lot of missing data.

I wonder if the problem is with my watch or my pedals…

I thought the problem was only on strava, because I first noticed a 40W difference in average power compared to my previous training sessions.
On the application of my suunto watch, the average power is correct, but in fact I think that the missing data are excluded from the calculation…

A friend of mine showed me golden sheetah, he uses it to analyze his bike rides. I should be able to correct my data… by eliminating missing data or by doing imputation… I’ll look into it.

But that doesn’t solve my problem… my suunto ambit 3 watch is getting old, I bought it 3 years ago… it was already a not so recent model…

I’m hoping it’s more of a problem with the watch than the pedals… which did rub the ground a few times. :cry:

EDIT :
On a 1h15 run (4539 seconds), I have 770 (17%) missing data.

image

I exported an activity directly from the suunto application that I imported to golden sheetah. It seems that the missing data is not only about the power…

One more argument that the problem comes from my watch… I would have to try my pedals with someone’s watch or computer to reassure myself… I was not planning to buy a new watch…

DC rainmaker seemed to suggest that pedal Power metres are pretty robust even with rock strikes in mountain biking so hopefully your power metre is not affected by hitting the ground.

I got a few random sessions where LR balance was 25:75% so definitely something happened to the left sensors on that session

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I think you’re right, especially since the sensors are on the inner side, near the crank.
But considering the cost of this technology, I have to think about it…

I did a software reboot of my watch, and if I have to I’ll do a factory reboot. And if it doesn’t work, I’ll have to borrow a watch or a computer from a friend to check the correct functioning of my pedals.

The suunto app doesn’t allow me to have the indications on L/R balance and pedaling efficiency. I may try strava submit for 1 month to get this data.

There are free apps that can record power, like Wahoo I believe. I am not sure if Strava premium works with a power meter. I can try later to see though.

Mine shows weird left/right balance numbers when I brake with my feet. If the entire ride is pushing forward on the pedals, then left/right is normal.

Update:
Strava cannot connect to a powermeter.
Wahoo app can.

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I overreacted a bit, a soft reset fixed my problem. My workout yesterday has no missing data.

I also imputed the missing power values from the previous 3 rides by averaging the adjacent values. I get power data consistent with my other efforts.

Anyway, it’s good to know that there is an application on smartphone that allows you to connect a power sensor.

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I get some pretty funky values, potentially it is because of the amount of eccentric braking I am doing in hockey. Some sessions I will get 52-48% LR balance, others I will have 68-32%.

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Are you using a power meter while playing hockey? If so, what do you want to get from the power data?

I’m largely interested in understanding our sport better. I want to know what is required for Matchplay at different levels. How many accelerations and eccentric decelerations we do in matches and how large they are.

It’s largely for my own interest of understanding my sport. I believe hockey may be quite different to a lot of other team sports as I think the eccentric braking load is comparatively pretty large.
Team sports on feet have eccentric loads while running but for stopping you can usually plant a foot at and angle, ice Hockey has a hockey stop. Bike polo use brakes. So I think we have a unique situation where we often slow ourselves down eccentrically before accelerating again.

Id also like to know how often I turn left and right in a match and see if it seems optimal, but may need an IMU for that.

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Interesting. I played my first unicycle hockey match in a long while on Friday and my quads felt it the day after. I think you have a point about the eccentric braking.

I used the same power meter for the 10K, marathon and hill race.

First, I had no missing data on the 10k and marathon. But I had more than 10% on the hill race. I think I need to at least do soft resets from time to time… before I find another solution.

  • The 10 km: less than 19 minutes / 31.7kph / 244W / 123rpm
  • The marathon: 1h16min21sec / 32.9kph / 225W / 127rpm
  • The climbing road race: less than 52 minutes / 17.5kph / 265W (270W during 50 minutes) / 105rpm

There was maybe a bit of unfavorable wind on the 10km, but the passage of the bridge and the numerous cyclists, forced me to burn some W in the brake. On the other hand, after crossing the bridge, I held 3.3km at 35.5 kph (264W). I probably spent more energy (for a lower average speed) because the effort was more irregular.

It is also possible that a larger development ratio would improve performance on the flat. Being able to run at 35 kph with a 120 rpm cadence would certainly be more comfortable, which would be a ratio between 1.7 and 1.8. Of course, in the more technical turns and climbs, it would be more difficult to keep up…

It was partly to have the power data from my races at UNICON that I invested in this power sensor. It’s interesting :slight_smile:

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Interesting data Simon, what about using shorter cranks instead of longer ratio (or bigger wheel but 36 is already the maximum available) ?

On the 3 races and on my 2 unicycles, I used 145 mm cranks. This is the shortest crank length I’ve ridden in the last few months.
With shorter cranks, the motion is not the same, and it would be harder for me to produce as much power.
I already tried 137 mm cranks a few years ago and what is sure is that the gap is too big between 145 and 137 mm, and I think that in absolute terms 137 mm is too short for me. Maybe I should try 142 or 140 mm, but now I’ve been riding 145 mm for years. I don’t even want to try.

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