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That looks great! almost exactly what I had in mind. I wouldn’t get too hung up on joining technique. I would probably rivet to my hub with the broken flange but use small bolts for my good one.

I would buy a set. If there were twice as many holes and/or no scallops (so I could drill a second set of holes) I would buy a second set.

Looks like a great idea to me. It seems like it would be easiest just to go with screws.

upgraded my 24" oracle

KH Freeride saddle (orange)

KH 137 moment cranks

KH peddles

I can’t wait to ride it on some propper trails :D:)

My last project, a lightweight 29er:
-KH frame
-Mad4one hub 32h 470g
-ZTR Crest Rim <400g
-Tire Schwalbe Furious Fred 360g
-Con Tec Pedals 250g
-Cranks Qu-ax 125er

all together 3,85Kg!

At the moment i use it with longer cranks and Pedals with more grip so it gets a few grams more

Impressive weight !

I looked up your tire to see the tread and weight. Schwalbe announce 360g (13oz) for a 29x2.00 (50-622) -> great specs if it does not feel flimsy !

I can’t wait to see your review on how it rides (how it feels, what pressure you run…).

Update on takedown 36er

I had tested the wheel for a month or so. Zero issues, except mismatched spoke nipples (my order never came though, I will make do).

This might be the future of unicycle travel, the only problem is it take me 2 hours to get it all back into shape.

Info about the take down 36" wheel

I hadn’t posted much about it because I wasn’t entirely sure how well it would work and didn’t want a bunch of people unicycling across a strange and foreign land on experimental and unstable wheels. :wink:

I wish I had tried it earlier but until this year I had no reason to worry about international flights with a 36er. Now that I have tried it and it works I regret not doing it earlier so others could save themselves some headaches at airports.

It is really quite simple. I cut the rim in two places and separated the pinned join. The pinned join was a real PITA but I found if you worked on it after cutting the rim and only opening a gap of about 1cm you can cut the factory pins in the middle and pull them the rest of the way out with pliers.

I reamed out the holes on the end of each rim section with an allan key. I can’t remember what size I used but it was a good tight fit and left the hole much more round.

Then I made new pins out of some brass rod I found. I had to decrease the diameter slightly so I ground down the rod to a uniform thickness that was very slighlty larger than the pin holes then cut it into 1.5" lengths. I then reduced the diameter a bit more on one end of each pin so the rim would be easily built/disassembled.

I cleaned up the cuts a bit then pounded the pins thick end first into one end of each rim section. I checked the fit and filed down any pins that mushroomed while being installed.

The rim goes back together by hand then is built like a regular wheel. There were humps of about 3mm at each join in the initial phases of the wheel build but evened out as the wheel was brought up to tension. When I was done I was able to stand on the rim at opposite ends and bounce, it was rock solid. I wish I had done some sort of proper deflection test/measurement before and after but if I can put 190 lbs on either side of a wheel and bounce without it budging I think it will be OK.

I had no issues riding it and it was still in the same shape today when I took it apart as when I built the wheel a month ago.

The real test will be how it does in Uzbekistan but I can’t foresee any issues. After Uzbekistan I am going to Australia for their summer than Germany for the Dusseldorf marathon before returning home. I have no idea how much this is saving me in oversized luggage fees but I bet it is significant.

I’m curious to know why you have two saddles.

I don’t know what the roads are going to be like, If they are OK I would prefer to use the bike seat, but if it is more like big wheel MUni I prefer the unicycle seat. Between two seats, 127/150 and 110/137 cranks and a highly adjustable handle I should have my bases covered for the next 6 months.

I’ve commented before, but just to repeat there’s no reason why doing that with a wheel should be an issue as a rim is in compression in a built wheel (and should remain so under all but the most extreme loads which would break a normal wheel). If you had done testing on it I would be extremely surprised if you found any difference before and after. Not something I’m about to do any time soon, but thanks very much for the write up.

I bet it makes it tricky running tubeless though.

I still rode some km on it. It feels like the wheel has no mass. Sometimes it feels too light.The tire needs more pressure, because he is softer than normal tires. On dry surfaces it has good grip and low rollresistance, but its hard to ride over Stones, because the tire is too thin and light.
This uni is a good hillclimbing-machine. Its fun to try how light is possible but the effect of weight-saving is very small. A light uni is not much faster than a regular uni.

Thanks for the feedback. For sure, putting a uni on a diet is fun ! :stuck_out_tongue:

Having a lighter uni won’t make you ride faster, but on long rides or very steep rides, the difference will be noticeable (I felt the difference when I cut down my Muni from over 8kg to 7kg :smiley: ).

That’s a great project Saskatchewanian ! For sure, it has a lot of potential for smooth travel anywhere.

However, 2h to get it back together with a wheel build and truing is not a small feature, it requires some wheel build expertise. I can build a wheel if I get to my notes but am not sure if I can true it properly, let alone under 2h only with a frame and zipties :stuck_out_tongue:

This seems great! I am actually tempted but would hate to have to rebuild the wheel every time. Still for a trip like yours, this seems perfect. Have a great time in Uzbekistan (boy do I wish I was going) and Australia and I’ll see you in Düsseldorf.

—Nathan

I decided to lace up a 700c road wheel for myself, and I bought one of those close-out Qu-Ax frames from Goudurix for it. But then I decided based on color scheme and nothing else that the wheel from my 26" muni looked better in that frame and the 700c wheel looked better in the 26" chrome Nimbus frame. There’s little difference in dimensions between the frames. The Magura rim brake mounts are in the wrong place on both but I’m not good enough to need brakes yet anyway.

The 26" muni has an older KH/Onza splined hub, currently with a Maxxis Hookworm.

The 700c has a 37 mm Panaracer Pasela on a Sun Ringle Rhyno Lite rim with an eBay “Schwinn Unicycle 36 Hole Square Taper” hub, basic United 140mm cranks, and Twisted PC pedals. All cheap and cheerful but so far I like riding it a lot.

First build

Always wanted to learn to ride a unicycle and always loved to build things. Seen other people on here over 50 learning so I thought what the heck. I am going to try and build my wheel ( Maybe) I need to measure (just got rim today) and order spokes. Calculators seem to very so this may take me awhile. Also need to decide on a seat and a seat post. This is what I have so far.
Jack

Got my new rim for my winter project! I can’t wait to make my round crown aluminum frame now :wink:


P.S.: Will have pictures of the process as soon as I get the jig and the tubing! :smiley:

36" freewheel unicycle

Following Killian’s lead I converted my 36" fixed wheel unicycle to a freewheel unicycle using the Nimbus Drift Trike hub. My first impressions are that the only way I can free mount it with my leg height is using the side mount which will take a fair amount of practice, that it’s generally easier to balance on than smaller freewheels, and I’ll need more practice with the brake.

Looks like you’re in for some fun there, Jack! It’ll be a kick to go riding on a wheel that you bulit yourself.

I was just reading through some older messages and read one along the lines of “most people on this site would rather be riding than turning wrenches.” That’s probably true statistically but the tinkering minority of us enjoy both, and folks here have come up with some impressive and innovative stuff. And to be frank about it, I’m good for about an hour of hard riding and then I need find some other way to spend my time while I recover.

Take your time, measure very carefully, and check your answer against as many sources as you can. It’s always a little hairy putting in that order for spokes, but so far I’ve always gotten the length right. Fingers crossed for you. :slight_smile:

That’s either a very narrow phone or a very wide rim!