I highly doubt it fits in a 26’’ frame, it’s 1.5’’ taller rim. I got a cheapo Qu-Ax steel 29er frame, I’ll built it on that until I can make my own 27.5’’ frame. I’ll weld a diskbrake tab this week at school.
For my next frames, I’m currently working on making a Jig, I found an old hub so I can have the correct bearing spacing. I have my plan for the jig, I need to get the parts now 
So-called 27.5" wheels use 23" diameter rims. So-called 26" wheels use 22" diameter rims. It’s a 1" difference in diameter, or a 1/2" difference (12.7mm) in radius which is what you’d need to know about. It would be soooooo much easier if this was done the way car wheels are.
I can’t say if you’d have space for that in whatever 26" frame you have. I’ve seen reports that Hans Dampf tires are true to size at least, if not bigger, while many downhill tires seem to run smaller than marked. It’s easy enough to test the fit if/when you’ve built a wheel and a better use of time than trying to guess. But definitely do build a frame for it if that’s what you want to do because that would be heroic.
The Hans Dampf 27.5" tire WILL NOT fit in a KH or Nimbus 26" frame.
But it will fit in a KH or Nimbus 29" frame 
Jaco, why in the world would you get the regular Hans if you can buy a Super Gravity? Dude, send it back, you’re making an expensive mistake.
The regular Hans is fine for XC but it’s not burly enough for DH. Even the Hans Super Gravity is not as burly as a Duro 3".
Ask Killian, he’ll back me up, he ran really high pressures on his regular HD and was still blowing sealant. I run 18-20 psi on my Hans SG and I haven’t blown sealant in weeks, and that’s with drops done at speed and the tire getting all squishy and side loaded.
I sold my regular HD.
Yep, regular HD leaves much to be desired tubeless, though I still like the tire. If you plan on running a tube, you’ll probably be fine. I really liked the weight loss compared to the Dissent. But like Ben said, I was running 30-35 psi and burped all the time. Since I got my 26er though, I haven’t touched the 29er, and it has a tubed Duro on it. 
In relation to the thread (current projects), I ordered some cheap aero bars this weekend for my 36er. I’ll be picking them up Wednsday. I look forward to dozing off while laying out on my handlebar set up and letting the uni auto pilot beneath me.
I’m trying to encourage the use of the term 27" to describe such wheels as it gives a more realistic idea of the difference from 26" wheels - please join me
You’re telling me the Trail Star Hans Dampf really is a Huge difference to the Super Gravity? I’m going to be riding around 35psi also probably, but with a Tubeless ready rim. I’m probably not going to use it as a DH wheel because I’ll have th Schlumpf hub in it, this wheel is going to be used for XC, my DH setup is a 26x3".
I’ll try the Trail Star, you have to know that I pay cost on all of these parts, not as expensive as you think. Also, I couldn’t get the Super Gravity one because the distributer couldn’t get it. Maybe in a few months, the 650b stuff is just starting to grow.
I’ll review the Trail Star, if it sucks, I’ll try to get a Super Gravity
I ran around 35 psi. Unless you are doing drops, you’ll probably be fine. I didn’t have problems with cornering or anything like that, but any drop over 3" would cause burping. If you ride anywhere rocky or rooty prepare for burps as well.
Perhaps going in a tubeless ready rim would make a difference as well, I was using a D2.
Super gravity is a huge difference compared to its lesser Hans. Lesser in weight, cost and wall thickness.
SG Hans is much more stable in the sidewalls. Just tubelessed my 26 guni today. Regular hans i love but could never run lower pressures to really use the tire to its full ability and potential.
Its almost like Schwalbe got a peice of plastic and moulded it into the sidewalls. I thought snake skin was better than standard but super grav is for keeps!
Soon as a 29er Super grav is out towards the end of the year i will be swaping for one of them on my ungeared Kh29 Xc
I made a couple changes to my freewheel unicycle. I swapped in an Oracle frame, 114mm cranks, and a shorter seatpost. As you might expect it’s much lighter.
Frame: Oracle 26"
Brake: TRP Spyre mechanical, 160mm rotor, Kris Holm brake mount and starfighter
Seat Clamp: Nimbus DoubleQuick (red)
Seatpost: Nimbus 25.4mm x 200mm
Seat: Kris Holm fusion freeride (blue)
Pedals: Odyssey Twisted PC
Cranks: Nimbus Venture 114mm cotterless (black)
Tire: Halo Twin Rail 26" (pink)
Rim: Halo SAS 26" (white)
Hub: Nimbus Drift Trike Disc Cotterless - 36 Hole
kant tipe, droll onnnn mi kybard
650B geared Muni is almost done, all I need is the skill and the material for a custom Ti frame Should be good for a while with that frame though 
Jaco,
The regualr Hans is a fine XC tire, on par with an Ardent, though having a better tread pattern and being a bit stickier with Trailstar tread.
The Super Gravity is a completely different tire, it’s closer to a DH tire, has thicker sidewalls, armord casing from bead to bead, so it stands up to more abuse and needs less air for stability.
I’m running tubeless in my HD SG, ~ 18psi and it never burps, whereas my regular Hans burped constantly at 22psi.
I’m pretty heavy (200#), not much of a big drop guy, but I ride fast and hit obstacles hard, the Super Gravity is the only tire that I can run low pressure, other than a 4" Surly or a Duro/Gazz that has not been too soft.
I’ve been thinking about building a Schlumpf into a 32" wheel lately. I know some people have laced the 36h hub into the 48 hole wheel, but it seemed less than ideal. Since I’m in the “think about it” stage, I wondered about making an adapter to go from 36 to 48 holes. Something like this (see below). Wouldn’t be a difficult machining project. Any thoughts on the subject?
I had sketched up plans similar but simpler than yours.
My idea was simply two flat disks that bolted on to the outside of the flanges using the existing spoke holes. There is plenty of room to go a bit wider in that area on most frames.
I can’t remember the exact measurements but I was also thinking of doing the adaptors with 18 holes on the inner circle (to attach to each spoke hole with a 2.5mm bolt) and 48 holes on the outer circle.
With 48 holes on each side (96 total) depending on how they are bolted to the hub you would have proper alignment for 48,32,24,or 16 spoke wheels, as well as a hybrid half radial 64 spoke (using all the spoke holes on a Surly Rabbit Hole rim)
I would like to get it cut form 3mm stainless or a hard aluminum alloy. I will let you know if I find someone to make something along those lines.
See Aaaagh - broken flange on my Schlumpf for where somebody proposed something similar as a fix for the broken flange on my Schlumpf.
I like it! Simple is good.
Can you tell me about the scalloped outer edge on Schlumpf (and some other) hubs? I know it’s to give space for the spokes to run past without having to bend them (or bend them much), but not all hubs have this feature. Is there a consensus on how much difference it makes to have it? Would beveling the edge also serve this purpose?
Your idea reminds me of “moyeaux grandes flasques” hubs that fancy French bicycles sometimes used to have. This isn’t my photo album but it’s a nice display of some of them:
Down at the bottom, there are disks shown that haven’t yet been attached to a hub. They look like what I’ve usually seen, 6-10 rivets holding them on rather than screws. I remember somewhere also seeing a picture of a press someone made to add a bit of dish to the flanges toward the direction the spokes are pulling, but I can’t find that right now.
I always thought they were cool.
Also some photos here.
Flat ring version adapter
OK, based on comments/suggestions, here is another version of the Schlumpf hub with flat ring 48-hole adapters. I have incorporated the scalloped edging, but I’m not sure what the best dimensions would be for this feature. The inner radius of the hub flange is slightly problematic. The washers may need to be trimmed. Conversely, the ring could be threaded and the screws run in the other way. But I was thinking about keeping the ring as simple as possible. Comments?
(This model is accurate to scale, btw.)
Thanks.
Nice 3D rendering LanceB.
However, it maybe worth considering the use of the rivets like it was done with the old hubs pictures above.
At least with rivets there is no need for loctite or risks of loose bolts 
Well, rivets would be more permanent alright. It would also make it a pretty big hassle to use the hub in any other application. Since I’m not 100% certain of which wheel size would be best, I think I’d prefer using screws with loctite, and keep it flexible.
thx.
