I don’t think the KH hub would be any weaker from having a hollow axle, because there wouldn’t really be much stress on the middle of the axle because it would all go into the spokes.
Maybe the nimbus hub being lighter was a typo because if it is made out of the same material, then it wouldn’t make any sense to be lighter.
haha i sure as hell hope this wheel is good, b/c i ordered it last thursday… and it should arive this thursday. i calculated it and found out that this is i think 15g lighter than the kh wheelset… though thats basically nothing. i bought this to replace my kh wheelset with a koxx undrilled rim. i just got the rim and put it on, laced it all up, and its WAY to heavy. so i got rly lazy this time so instead of buying a different rim i just bought this wheel b/c o the good reviews and its such a good deal… so yea. i hope this lasts me (ive badly bent both the KH and Alex DX rims… so we’ll c wat happens with this one…)
Strenght and Material
Many times when you remove material you actually create strenght. The classic example is the “blood Grooves” on the sides of knife and sword blades. Most poeple think that they are there to facilitate the bleeding of the victim. This is not true. By adding the blood grooves you are removing material but you are adding surface area to the blade. This makes it much stronger like an I-Beam. The danger with hollow tubes as compared to solid bars is “nicking” once the tube gets a nick it will then bend in that place. However I don’t think that this is a problem for hubs because it is kind of hard to hit them in the middle. They have a wheel around them!
Unicorn
mine too:) . i hope its good
I heard that the KH spindle is made of a higher quality metal than the Nimbus and therefore similar strength. But why the Nimbus is lighter? I heard it was the other way around.
In addition to being wider the 07 rim’s walls are thicker so strength is about the same, even though it’s drilled.
Regularly make sure your rim is trued and tensioned properly. If you do this as well as always roll out of drops you should never break rims. Or maybee you aren’t exacly light and/or you ust ride REALLY hard, then get 13 ga. spokes.
The materials are identical on the two hubs. They have the same tempering. The difference in weight could just be the samples that were weighed or possibly that the holes in the flanges of the Nimbus are slightly bigger… not sure. Basically they are the same weight, our weighing scale is very accurate, not many can weigh as accurately as it can (it is an ex-post office scale).
Roger
i dont really do drops that often, both were bent going down a 6 stair. I was trying some twists down it and w/ twists theres a possibility of landing sideways, which can brake an Alex DX 32 even if the spokes were tightened very well 5 days before.
so yea, sure hope the nimbus holds up if i ever mess up on a twist down a set…
lol
you bent them off a 6 stair… something was loose or you had NO rollout
w/ the kh im not sure that the spokes were completely tight although i am quite postive. but yea sometimes u land a bit sideways wen ur trying things that aren’t simply gapping… which does tend to bend the rim.
Umm sorry darling, but any removal of material will always result in a decrease in strength. A solid beam is always stronger than an I beam (both with the same outer dimensions). Sure the removal of material will increase its strength to weight ratio, but is doesn’t increase its strength. But you did do a very good job at finding examples to ‘prove’ your point, keep it up.
i just got my wheel. the nimbus DOES have flange cut outs AND a drilled axle, this may explain weight. however, i am very disappointed. the spokes just rub on the frame, the flanges are much wider than my qu-ax 10 spline. i was wondering if i should try and sand,file the spokes down where they hit, or send it back. i also got KH moments with the order, and they were loose in the box, bouncing around and now have several minor dents and scratches, as well as on the rim, i am very let down by this order. i think that UDC and sites of that sort should have lists of part compatibility.
You moment cranks certainly don’t have dents they are solid aluminum. If you are at all displeased with your order you should contact UDC right away they will honestly fix everything for you as soon as possible. I’ve had amazing service from them whenever something wasn’t quite right with my order. As far as minor scratches on the cranks and rim - think of what they will look like after a month of riding. If you file anything down I think it should be the frame not the spokes.
I know how you can make it work.
Take the bearings off your hub and put wider spacers in between the bearings and the flanges, then make sure you put smaller ones on after.
You will have to pull the legs of your frame apart to get it on the bearings but it should work.
I had the same problem with my moment hub and my qu ax frame.
the are not big dents, just small digs on the edges where the other cranks/ rim hit it in the box. i have had past excellent experience with UDC, so i contacted them yesterday. My dad is amazing at fixing things and he said i should put small indents in the frame where the spokes hit, and he knows a way that he can help me do this w/o recking other parts of the frame.
wont that torque the frame around though, and i think it would put bad side pressure on the bearings, wont it?
thanks for the help Brian & Matt
If it’s a steel frame, bending them out to fit a wider set of bearings, or in to fit a narrower set of bearings is typically fine, loads of people do it, almost all coker riders who upgrade their wheels end up with wider spaced bearings. If it has pressed bearing holders than it should for sure be fine, but even people with the Nimbus 36 frame seem to do this all the time, and that has machined bearing holders.
If it’s an aluminium frame then it might not be a good idea.
Joe
thanks, it is a steel frame, and pressed on bearings. so the side pressure wont hurt them? and also, how do i get the bearings off w/o ruining them.
thanks again for any help
If you bend the frame the right amount, there shouldn’t be much or any side pressure.
srry for so many q’s but do i actually bend the frame, or just “stretch” it to fit the bearings?
I just put my frame on my deck and used my foot to hold one of the legs down, then I pulled up on the other leg and kept checking how it fit on the hub. I just did a bit at a time to make sure I didn’t go to far. I managed to get it to fit perfectly on the hub and not put any side pressure on the bearings. I tried putting a few spokes in the hub and it spun easily with 3 or 4 millimeters of clearance.
So yah, I guess you have to acually bend the frame. I haven’t acually tried mine with the wheel fully built yet because I have been getting my rim and hub painted first, so I hope the frame bent evenly on both sides.
Good Luck
Edit: Anothering thing you might want to is not doing anything with the bearings or spacers yet, and just bending the frame out a bit so that you have to squeeze it back in a little to get it on the bearings. It will make sure that the inside walls of the bearing holders are right against the bearings and it will give you the most amount of clearance. I can give a bit more clearification if that didn’t make any sense.
how do i remove the bearings though, if i do use diff spacers?