Nimbus ISIS v.s KH ISIS Hubs

You moment cranks certainly don’t have dents they are solid aluminum. If you are at all displeased with your order you should contact UDC right away they will honestly fix everything for you as soon as possible. I’ve had amazing service from them whenever something wasn’t quite right with my order. As far as minor scratches on the cranks and rim - think of what they will look like after a month of riding. If you file anything down I think it should be the frame not the spokes.

I know how you can make it work.

Take the bearings off your hub and put wider spacers in between the bearings and the flanges, then make sure you put smaller ones on after.

You will have to pull the legs of your frame apart to get it on the bearings but it should work.

I had the same problem with my moment hub and my qu ax frame.

the are not big dents, just small digs on the edges where the other cranks/ rim hit it in the box. i have had past excellent experience with UDC, so i contacted them yesterday. My dad is amazing at fixing things and he said i should put small indents in the frame where the spokes hit, and he knows a way that he can help me do this w/o recking other parts of the frame.

wont that torque the frame around though, and i think it would put bad side pressure on the bearings, wont it?

thanks for the help Brian & Matt

If it’s a steel frame, bending them out to fit a wider set of bearings, or in to fit a narrower set of bearings is typically fine, loads of people do it, almost all coker riders who upgrade their wheels end up with wider spaced bearings. If it has pressed bearing holders than it should for sure be fine, but even people with the Nimbus 36 frame seem to do this all the time, and that has machined bearing holders.

If it’s an aluminium frame then it might not be a good idea.


thanks, it is a steel frame, and pressed on bearings. so the side pressure wont hurt them? and also, how do i get the bearings off w/o ruining them.

thanks again for any help

If you bend the frame the right amount, there shouldn’t be much or any side pressure.

srry for so many q’s but do i actually bend the frame, or just “stretch” it to fit the bearings?

I just put my frame on my deck and used my foot to hold one of the legs down, then I pulled up on the other leg and kept checking how it fit on the hub. I just did a bit at a time to make sure I didn’t go to far. I managed to get it to fit perfectly on the hub and not put any side pressure on the bearings. I tried putting a few spokes in the hub and it spun easily with 3 or 4 millimeters of clearance.

So yah, I guess you have to acually bend the frame. I haven’t acually tried mine with the wheel fully built yet because I have been getting my rim and hub painted first, so I hope the frame bent evenly on both sides.

Good Luck

Edit: Anothering thing you might want to is not doing anything with the bearings or spacers yet, and just bending the frame out a bit so that you have to squeeze it back in a little to get it on the bearings. It will make sure that the inside walls of the bearing holders are right against the bearings and it will give you the most amount of clearance. I can give a bit more clearification if that didn’t make any sense.

how do i remove the bearings though, if i do use diff spacers?

You need a bearing puller.

I don’t have one, but I have used a faucet handle puller that plumber’s use and it works pretty much the exact same way.

ok i think my dad has one… ill see which way i decide to go.