nimbus hub question

Thanks Kris

I was considering starting a tread asking about why there are spacers on ISIS hubs, but now I don’t have to. So basically they are cosmetic but are extra insurance against bearing slip. Good to know.


i’m laughing right now, those two problems are very minimal, the main use that i see a spacer for is that the cranks go on any splined hub exactly the same, therefore saving wear from removing and cleaning, and replacing cranks onto the hub… it is basically what puts isis above cotterless as far as wearing out goes.

How is the Nimbus ISIS hub compared to the Kris Holm Hub when it comes to doing hard stuff like grinding and large sets? Which one should I get for my future new trials unicycle?

Not that I don’t believe you, but is this documented somewhere?

Yeah, Roger posted it somewhere - I can’t find it though.


Which makes the difference between the KH and the Nimbus/Moment just seat, frame, and post? Do they have the same diameter seatposts?

no, the nimbus has a 25.4 diameter post and the KH has the much better IMO 27.2 seatpost.

Just curious, what makes the 27.2 much better in your opinion?

A. Much more compatibility with mountain bike posts
B. Stronger post overall and potential for stronger post to plate weld since their is a larger circumference
C. More area for the seatclamp to grip onto
D. Can use thinner tubing because the post is wider, theoretically same weight for more strength.

Thread revival!

So I just received my Nimbus hub and moment cranks yesterday for a new wheel I’m building. Everything was going smoothly until I tighten the cranks on. I’m getting to the point where I can’t tighten them anymore and there is still about 1mm between the spacer and the crank. Is this dangerous? I went through all the packing and couldn’t find an extra set of spacers (wider ones like the ones I have on my other KH trials). If anyone else ordered this hub, did you receive 2 different sets of spacers? Any advice? Thanks!

If the bolt stopped cause the crank is tight, you should be fine, if the bolt stopped because somehow it or the crank is already all the way on, you may want a bigger spacer.

Here is what I would do:

  1. Tighten them as far on as you can, ride around. Tighten some more, ride around, tighten some more.

  2. If I had a rubber or soft mallet, I would replace the riding around with banging the crank on with the mallet. If you bang e bang, you should remove the crank bolt first, as you so not want to bang the bolt against the threads of the hub.

  3. On second thought if I had the mallet, I would prolly do both 1 and 2.

I have never had Moments on a nimbus, but there appears to have not been any problems with that setup.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll give that a try but I don’t have a rubber mallet on hand. I’m just annoyed I may have to order new spacers and wait for them.

the point of the spacers are to keep the bearings in the right spot if they slip on the axle. Don’t worry about having a bit of room between the spacer and the crank, it just means that if the bearing broke loose on the axle it could wiggle that 1mm.

I don’t have spacers on the crank side of my bearings as they prevented my echo cranks from going all the way on. I have had no problems with being spacerless.

Thanks for your input too. I’ll try to resolve the issue but I guess I won’t go berserk over it.

You dont need the spacers.

Just go and ride.

Yeah, I have moments on a nimbus hub on my son’s 26er, and there’s a sizable gap between the bearing and the cranks. I didn’t have any spacers, but I pounded those puppies on good, and things have worked out fine. No slop or anything; no problems at all, in fact. Don’t worry about it.

Oh, and if you don’t have a rubber mallet, put a 2x4 on top of the crank, and use a regular hammer. Pound on the wood, obviously. Keeps the cranks in good shape, and gets them on nice and tight, too.

Ok I can do that with the wood. Thanks for all your help guys. I have a tendency to get frantic when things aren’t perfect.

one reason i’ve been cautious about using spacers, especially with worn cranks is the possibility that the spacers may actually prevent the crankarms from seating correctly. the extra play could damage the cranks. i would rather have the spacer slightly loose than tight. (tight could indicate that the crankarm was not seated all the way)

This is kind of amusing, but I just got some Rollo Disks today and they won’t mount on my KH hub (with bigger spacers) but they work on the Nimbus hub with the smaller spacers. Also, I did some more tightening and its almost snug.