whos riding this hub with moments? and riding it HARD!
anyone doing some pretty big stuff with it? just wanting to know the limitations.
i ordered mine yesterday, i was going to order it from unicycle.cc but on the home page it said “opening soon”.
-jkohse
uhhh I know Danni has one…same with Brian O. and others…I think they ride pretty hard…
And unicycle.cc, I think they mean an actually store…I think they ship from a warehouse though…
isaac
I’ve been flipping five sets and plenty of largish drops. You won’t have to worry about that hub.
I’m 175 lbs. I got my Nimbus ISIS with KH moments last Oct, and got a chance to take it off of several 3-4 foot drops before the snow fell. Since then, I’ve been indoors on flat.
I have managed to cause the bearings to slip toward the crank if I jump up or down onto something and land a little wrong (on edge of the tire). This was easily fixed with a set of spacers (in between the bearings and cranks) I had to make.
That hub should have spacers that come with it though, and I’m not sure why mine didn’t. Might be something to inquire about and make sure they include them.
Otherwise, no problems at all.
The nimbus and KH are the same hub except for color and the drill outs. I have not broken mine and I don’t see it happening.
Mine definitely has spacers.
I spec’d the Moments with spacers outside the bearings. I’m not sure if the Nimbus hub has them. Strictly speaking they are not necessary because the bearings are pressed on. However, I still wanted them to be absolutely sure that the bearings didn’t slowly work their way outwards on the axle.
Kris
the spacers also cover up the little bit of spline that would show even when the cranks are on tight. this prevents lots of threads from popping up about “does my KH/Nimbus unicycle have a bad hub?”, or “are my cranks on right?”.
you can see what i’m talking about here:
Thanks Kris
I was considering starting a tread asking about why there are spacers on ISIS hubs, but now I don’t have to. So basically they are cosmetic but are extra insurance against bearing slip. Good to know.
lol
i’m laughing right now, those two problems are very minimal, the main use that i see a spacer for is that the cranks go on any splined hub exactly the same, therefore saving wear from removing and cleaning, and replacing cranks onto the hub… it is basically what puts isis above cotterless as far as wearing out goes.
How is the Nimbus ISIS hub compared to the Kris Holm Hub when it comes to doing hard stuff like grinding and large sets? Which one should I get for my future new trials unicycle?
Not that I don’t believe you, but is this documented somewhere?
Yeah, Roger posted it somewhere - I can’t find it though.
Which makes the difference between the KH and the Nimbus/Moment just seat, frame, and post? Do they have the same diameter seatposts?
no, the nimbus has a 25.4 diameter post and the KH has the much better IMO 27.2 seatpost.
Just curious, what makes the 27.2 much better in your opinion?
A. Much more compatibility with mountain bike posts
B. Stronger post overall and potential for stronger post to plate weld since their is a larger circumference
C. More area for the seatclamp to grip onto
D. Can use thinner tubing because the post is wider, theoretically same weight for more strength.
Thread revival!
So I just received my Nimbus hub and moment cranks yesterday for a new wheel I’m building. Everything was going smoothly until I tighten the cranks on. I’m getting to the point where I can’t tighten them anymore and there is still about 1mm between the spacer and the crank. Is this dangerous? I went through all the packing and couldn’t find an extra set of spacers (wider ones like the ones I have on my other KH trials). If anyone else ordered this hub, did you receive 2 different sets of spacers? Any advice? Thanks!
If the bolt stopped cause the crank is tight, you should be fine, if the bolt stopped because somehow it or the crank is already all the way on, you may want a bigger spacer.
Here is what I would do:
Tighten them as far on as you can, ride around. Tighten some more, ride around, tighten some more.
If I had a rubber or soft mallet, I would replace the riding around with banging the crank on with the mallet. If you bang e bang, you should remove the crank bolt first, as you so not want to bang the bolt against the threads of the hub.
On second thought if I had the mallet, I would prolly do both 1 and 2.
I have never had Moments on a nimbus, but there appears to have not been any problems with that setup.