Thanks for the advice. I’ll give that a try but I don’t have a rubber mallet on hand. I’m just annoyed I may have to order new spacers and wait for them.
the point of the spacers are to keep the bearings in the right spot if they slip on the axle. Don’t worry about having a bit of room between the spacer and the crank, it just means that if the bearing broke loose on the axle it could wiggle that 1mm.
I don’t have spacers on the crank side of my bearings as they prevented my echo cranks from going all the way on. I have had no problems with being spacerless.
Thanks for your input too. I’ll try to resolve the issue but I guess I won’t go berserk over it.
You dont need the spacers.
Just go and ride.
Yeah, I have moments on a nimbus hub on my son’s 26er, and there’s a sizable gap between the bearing and the cranks. I didn’t have any spacers, but I pounded those puppies on good, and things have worked out fine. No slop or anything; no problems at all, in fact. Don’t worry about it.
Oh, and if you don’t have a rubber mallet, put a 2x4 on top of the crank, and use a regular hammer. Pound on the wood, obviously. Keeps the cranks in good shape, and gets them on nice and tight, too.
Ok I can do that with the wood. Thanks for all your help guys. I have a tendency to get frantic when things aren’t perfect.
one reason i’ve been cautious about using spacers, especially with worn cranks is the possibility that the spacers may actually prevent the crankarms from seating correctly. the extra play could damage the cranks. i would rather have the spacer slightly loose than tight. (tight could indicate that the crankarm was not seated all the way)
This is kind of amusing, but I just got some Rollo Disks today and they won’t mount on my KH hub (with bigger spacers) but they work on the Nimbus hub with the smaller spacers. Also, I did some more tightening and its almost snug.
Whats wrong with space. I have a gap on one side of the whell but it hasnt seemed to affect my riding.
Just take away the spacers and it’ll work.
Thanks Marco, I’ll do that. It appears I wasn’t the only person with this problem.
It feels strange that the bolt can barely reach with the Rollos on, and also if you tighten too much, the insert in the rollo disk pops out. I found it really easy for this to happen. I assumed Rollos were one piece, but that isn’t the case.
Hey,
Thanks for pointing this out. I am surprised to hear that. Production spec is that these should be one piece. It would be great if you can send me a photo - info(at)krisholm.com.
Regarding bolts: longer bolts should have been supplied and I’m working to resolve that. With only a couple of threads engaged there is the potential to damage the outer few threads on your axle. Consequently I recommend you don’t install it for now and wait for a post where I can resolve these two items.
Sorry about the hassle.
Kris
Alright I am going to retract my statement about it being 2 pieces. I am not a professional and I guess I shouldn’t have been hasty to say that. When it popped out so easily (and granted the lighting was poor at the time) it looked like a clean removal. Here’s the pic I sent. Thanks for looking into this Kris. Longer bolts would be great.
I probably could have avoided breaking this, but I don’t have a torque wrench and I usually tighten my cranks a lot harder. Be careful or refrain from installing until everything is sorted out.
I’ve had the bearing slip off the axle on 2 different Nimbus unis, The Nightrider and my 24" muni. My nightrider is good to go now, but I’m waiting on spacers for my Muni. I keep pounding the bearing back on but the fix is only temporary as it usually starts to slip after a few hours of riding.
Hopefully the spacers will do the trick.
When this happened to my nimbus muni, I bent the legs of the frame in slightly to create inward pressure on the bearings. On mine it appeared that the frame had widened slightly putting constant outward pressure on the bearings causing them to “walk” outwards on the axel.