So here’s my hooked Nextie with the T Monster installed and intially inflated to 44.5 psi. It’s holding so far but I’m still on edge thinking it’ll blow any second. After waiting an hour or so I will try to increase it to 55 psi.
Btw, while the tire was a bit harder to get onto the rim compared to the NR, I was still able to install it without levers. This could be due to the tire being used and might be slightly stretched out, but not sure. One thing is for sure, NR had blown off less than a minute after inflating it to 45 psi. With the T monster there were usual quick and loud pops as it seated to the rim during inflation.
I checked the specs on the Nextie rim, the NR and TM, and all are listed as 787mm. If this is true, how can Nextie claim that the BSD of the NR is too big, but the TM isn’t?
Because that’s the nominal diameter, and all products aren’t made to exactly that.
The Nextie rim is (according to their measurements which I’m inclined to believe) within spec for the ETRTO 787 spec.
Measuring the TM and NR are a little harder, but it’s clear just from experience that the NR is larger than ideal.
It is a balancing act between making a tyre that can actually be mounted and removed from on a rim, and one that has a bead as close to the BSD as physically possible.
Bike tyres used to be very much the same, with some being much easier to fit than others. This is still somewhat the case, but most manufacturers are targeting their tyres at tubeless use on hookless rims, and make them very tight in order to achieve this.
On the first road ride this morning (4.9.22) I noticed it was very hard to control, even though the 48 psi seemed optimal. Turned out that because the center treads are so worn down, the outer ramped knobs were making most of the contact, intermittently on either side. This caused some self-steer issues and erratic tracking. So after I got home I cut down all the outer knobs so that they are now lower than the center knobs. After a peliminary test ride it seems to have made all the difference.
I used an Xacto mini razor saw. It makes precision cuts and goes through the rubber knobs like butter. Just takes a while since there are so many of them.
I would use a high speed grinder while rotating the tire to contour it, a dremel to gouge out and redefine the tread as needed. Its been known to work with my motorcycles at differing tracks so why not here, the compounds are very close so should be worked the same ways.
Not without removing and weighing it, but I’m sure it’s lighter than new simply because of wear.
Btw, since cutting off the outer lugs, the tire’s main contact is again on the center knobs, and it tracks perfectly. There’s a little distortion in the pic, but you can see the dust picked up mainly on the center treads, and it has a nice rounded profile. Before shaving the outer lugs, it was much more of a square profile.
And with seasonal temperatures starting to rise, I’ve also gotten into the habit of deflating my uni tires by at least 25% when transporting them in my car or if I’ll be leaving them in the car for an extended, where they can get hot, causing the air inside the tire to expand and go boom! And since I have an digital tire inflator in the car, it takes only about 30-60 secs to get it back up to riding pressure.
So is this the one that you had 3 wraps of electrical tape across the whole rim bed? Was/is the tape still in place?
I wonder if you could add “something” thicker just in the little dip adjacent to the rim edge. Something thicker here would not effect the ability of mounting the tire as a full covering does.
Based on how I could mount without too many issues, I would go for more wraps of tape in future, and also yes, more on the sides, keeping it out of the well.
Not sure how much I can be bothered to fiddle with it now though until new tyres appear.
Same here. I am currently disassembling mine to use the hub for another build so i’m not tempted to continue riding it. I’ll hang it in the back of the garage and when a compatible tire becomes available i’ll be ready
I was going to install it but upon closer inspection it’s got a damaged area on the bead which I am OK with on a dominator 2 but the luck i’ve had with the Nextie I’m not going to risk it. I must have damaged it last time I installed it around a year ago Using tire levers on an original stealth rim which is very tight.
The rim I am building is a second dominator 2 rim and it will find its way on it so not a total loss
And since I have an digital tire inflator in the car, it takes only about 30-60 secs to get it back up to riding pressure.
