Shouldn’t be an issue. I initially had the Brauss 36er CF rim which is also quite deep, and ran the vee tire tube without a problem. I did use a Schrader adapter which extends the length to about 48mm.
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Brilliant!! Great idea 
I bought a Lezyne track pump a while back primarily because I really liked its connection to the valve. Compared to the Park Tool pump it replaced it is great. I’ve used it with no issue on a Presta valve which was only through the rim enough to get the fixing nut on (I didn’t have a tube with a long enough valve stem and had to use what I had).
A bit more expensive than a Schrader adapter (which is a great idea)… but if you are in the market for a new pump it might be a consideration.
Alice replied this morning (1.7.21) saying that they used the nimbus lightweight 36er tube in testing the hookless rim with the nightrider tire. What’s strange is that she claimed it has a presta valve which, to my knowledge, comes only with a schrader valve. Secondly, they have apparently not yet actually tested the hooked version, so I’m wondering how they can claim that it can “safely be inflated to 60 psi”.
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So, first thing to do when one arrives - double wrap of electrical tape, install tyre and tube, pump up to 60PSI and leave for a week?
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Are they saying the rim and tyre (not sure which one but doesn’t matter) are compatible?
When applying a rim strip/tape I recommend not extending the tape beyond the rim channel because the tire would then have to sit on top of the tape, raising the height of the bead. The hooked area is already limited in height to accommodate the bead, so it’s best to leave that area of the rim bare. I usually use athletic tape once or twice around. It works well and doesn’t stretch.
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They claim that even the hookless is compatible. This is the response I received:
No worries at all. We have tested to mount the tire (nightrider) on the Hookless version rim.
It's fine to mount with that tire. No air leaking, no blow-off. Everything is fine. :)
Well, this frankly isn’t true as has been shown numerous times now.
I’d push back looking for a refund if I were you.
Clearly if they refund everyone who bought the hookless rim they’ll have some costs to absorb that they’d rather not, but they’re selling a product that frankly isn’t fit for purpose.
Until there are some tyres on the market that are designed for hookless rims, they should probably stop advertising and selling that rim.
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Yep and that’s why @jswim788 and I got the same reply almost word for word. If they were to acknowledge that there are potential issues with the rim, pretty much all of us here would send them back for a hooked version or a refund. So economically it’s not a good operation since they would just have to scrape the returns as carbon can’t be recycled, as far as I know. Ethically, it’s another discussion, and I’m pretty sure if they were a US based company, they would have to organise some kind of recall scheme.
BTW Alice told me they follow this thread. Hello Alice!
This is a bit tricky. The rim itself is surely fine, and designed and manufactured perfectly for a hypothetical tubeless compatible 36" tyre (which doesn’t exist).
Presuming that the issues are universal and nobody has managed to get this setup to work (without ghetto setups or glue) then unless Nextie wish their name to be mud amongst the unicycling crowd, perhaps they should consider refunds…
(Hi Alice)
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I want to be clear about what happened with me. Nextie are definitely doing refunds if anyone is not happy.
The Maxxis tube that exploded was not one I had tested previously stretched, apart from 140km and about a week at 35psi (which was long enough for me to suspect the rim), it came in a box saying:
1. Double check the size and stem type of this tube to make sure it is compatible with your tire and wheel.
2. Always wear eye protection when servicing tires.
3. Tire mounting should be performed entirely by hand. (This seems impossible with the Nextie rim design, I got one side on by hand but really struggled with the other side with plastic levers)
4. Inflation should be performed with the use of a hand pump only.
5. Never exceed the maximum inflation pressure shown on the side wall of the tire.
6. Improper Inflation could result in a blowout - damaging tube, tire, rim and equipment - and may injure the rider.
So I ignored many of the instructions, and I can’t pin the blame on Nextie’s rim design, despite my suspicions about the slippery sides. The CST Schrader tubes I normally stretch have no warning at all. Nextie has been extremely forthcoming and understanding and has given me a full refund despite me not attaining a new innertube yet, (I got an email back about a quote for shipping and haven’t heard back since). It seems a bit premature, much like they must think my 0 star review that they haven’t posted is premature. Extremely suspicious that there are no reviews. Maybe there are others who have been paid off with refunds who did bad reviews that don’t show too.
I found out from Alice that I have been doing it wrong for the last 10 years and I didn’t know it!
"The 29’’ tube can not be used on a 36’’ tire. The perimeter for the 29’’ rim is 2m. For 36’’ rim, 2.4m. 29’’ tube is too short. " I must have imagined that stretching tubes was possible.
I tried to give feedback as to how easy the Stealth2 rim is for mounting the nightrider tires compared to the absolute struggle that it was with Nextie Unicorn 36 hookless, hoping that I might be giving useful feedback in helping improve the rim further. I got this hilarious response
"As for the trick to mounting the tire, there are not many tricks. You need to let the tire bead on the hook of the rim firstly.
Or maybe you can ask for the local bike shop’s help? "
I don’t think she is intending to be condescending, but I figure if I post it here others can weigh in, cos I can’t keep replying via email without sounding argumentative. Others have been having difficulty getting the tire on, is that not something that can be adjusted? I know nothing about making rims and I am grateful that we have rim manufacturers working on it.
Alice said she uses Foss explosion proof tubes, and said "We also use the tire pressure over 45psi. " which doesn’t give much confidence that it has been tested past 60psi (which I would expect for it to have a 60 psi rating).
I’m mostly healing, but I keep flip flopping between thinking my hand is broken and not, it still hurts at the base of my thumb, but maybe it is just injured some other way. It was extremely scary having my unicycle explode and I hope if I try again it will not happen. Interested to hear about other peoples experiences with over 35 psi, especially with Vee Rubber tubes, not explosion proof ones.
I wish I had asked in my original order for it to be drilled to Schrader, like I was thinking. I mostly associate presta with problems, and schrader with safety, convenience, and custom valve caps.
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I have been running 29 or 700c tubes for the last 13 years , same as hundreds of unicyclists without any issue ….
This is an easy way to say you did wrong, yes 29 tube is too small theoritically but it works and it saves about 400g which is huge, cheap and about the same improvement as moving from aluminum to CF rim which is far more expensive.
So go for 29 tube and Nextie should provide a right rim …. I’m riding a Brauss CF rim with a 700c tube, no issue until now …
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I don’t think so either. There is a cultural difference at work for sure but I’m used to it. Being french, when you talk to Customer Services here, it always feel like you are the one who did something wrong, the product can’t be faulty. Which is very different from US/Anglosaxon Customer Service which puts, as the name suggests, Customer first. And yes, it can be a bit tiring because you indeed feel like you’re defending yourself instead of feeling heard.
It was incredibly hard to put the tire on my rim. I don’t think the sides are at fault, it’s more that the groove in the center is not deep enough. The idea being to sit the tire in that groove with its smaller diameter, which allows you to get the tire over the edge. And once the tire is in place, it can’t (in theory) pop out as the air pressure makes it sit against the edges, where the diameter is larger.
Race bikes have used this system for a while now (inner tube + non clincher tires + hookless rim) but it only works if the tire size respect very precise specs, and of course you can’t inflate it above 70psi - instead of usual 100+psi used with hooked rims and tires.
As for the 29" tube, if you inflate one on its own, especially the size people have been using in 36" for years (42mm wide from memory, @bouin-bouin can confirm), you’ll see that it quickly has the size of a 36" wheel. So it doesn’t required much to stretch to 36" size. And for sure it shouldn’t be an explanation for the blow-outs some have seen.
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So, as I see it. The crosssection for the image up top is preferable rather than the 2 at the bottom…
- More secure hooking
- Deeper midsection, making it easier to mount the tyre
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not deep enough, same concern as with Stealth 1 whose profile was same as KH 29 Cross-Country (Stealth2 profile is same as Dominator rims)
Michelin butyl 700 35x47 tube is perfect for me, it gets longer but not fatter when you inflate it, so it takes exactly the 36 tyre size
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As difficult as it seems, tyres can almost always be mounted by hand. If you can get it on with plastic tyre levers (which by the nature of going between the rim and tyre actually make it harder for the tyre to go on) then it will be possible by hand.
Not necessarily easy, especially with thicker rim tape, but possible.
I don’t however think it’s particularly likely to have made much of a difference in your case to the issues you’ve had, but tyre levers and a stretched 29" tube do both make it more likely to damage the tube during installation.
To make tyre installation easier they’d have to deepen the well in the middle of the rim.
Deepening the well on a tubeless compatible rim makes tubeless installation much more difficult if not impossible, as the bead will sit in the well with all of the air you’re trying to pump into it leaking around the bottom. Now again we’re perhaps back to what they designed this rim for: not the tyres that currently exist.
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To make installation easier, increase the temperature of the tire using a heat gun or setting it in the sun. The rim will not be affected much by temperature because carbon fibers shrink at elevated temperatures. If mounting on a metal rim, cool the rim as much as possible.
This discussion reminds me of the discussions about the braus rim. I’ve heard that many have trouble mounting a KG ultimate tire on it. Personally, I have 2 36" wheels with this rim + tire combination, and mounting the tire is a breeze. Of course, there is a little trick to do by sliding the bead wire in the center of the rim, but most of all, you have to inflate the 29" tube and not just stretch it.
So many people told me that they had difficulties, I filmed myself doing a new installation. The comments are in French, but the pictures speak for themselves.
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IMHO, it really depends on 2 things:
- using the right tube: you’d probably want to go with a 29x2.2" tube but that usually won’t work as it’ll become way larger than 2.2" when you’ll inflate it to fit a 36er. The best bet is to use something like a 28x1.8" tube that stays round when inflated. Such as the Michelin Butyl 700 35x47:
- using the right rim tape. Don’t use a stock Nylon Rim tape from UDC, for example. It is too large to correctly fit such a narrow rim. Some electrician tape is perfect as it’ll stick to the rime without filling the central gap.
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