Have you tried the “2 notch” position? Would be curious to have your feedback on that.
Not yet.
I think that I will slide too much to the middle narrow part.
The handlebar will be a bit too low.
I might try it my next ride.
I’m having one big issue, and maybe some of you have a solution. The Zero is absolutely crushing my…ehem…boys. Every time I mount it feels like I just got a cheap shot to the groin.
Sounds like saddle angle is not adjusted properly, because the nearly curveless shape takes nearly all the pressure off the front. I’d suggest angling the saddle further up at the front, to start. Give yourself perhaps 5-10 rides to adjust to an enduro bike saddle - like approach to saddle comfort, very different than the traditional uni banana seat.
Hello L.B. You could try lowering the angle of your T.bar so that some of your weight is distributed forward onto the handlebars. Practise putting more downward pressure on the handlebars so that your arms are sharing the load.
Equal pressure spread over three points, your butt and two hands.
Hope this helps bring comfort to the old boys
P.S. There’s a set up I posted on page 14 where you also have your set up posted. You could try that set up with the saddle more horizontal and see if it suits you.
Thanks, guys. I’ll adjust the configuration and see how that helps.
I tried it today. I started the ride in 2 notch position. I didn’t like very much, because I was too much on the narrow part of the saddle. Control was also a little worse. Switched back to one notch and left it there for the rest of the ride. I got pain after 1,5 hours and rode on for another 20 minutes.
A Fusion freeride also gives my saddle soreness after 1,5 hours.
I think the optimum seat angle has a lot to do with your handlebar position. My handlebar is close to the seat. I can image with a more stetched out handlebar a flatter angle is nicer.
I fully share your opinion and regret that’s not possible to adjust better the saddle angle, I suggested Kris to make an adjustable BMX pivotal seat post keeping the current OPC post but seems not to consider this option for the future
This is probably immediately obvious to most people but it took me a while to get there. I switch between several different unicycles and one of the benefits of the KH Fusion Zero is that I can share the saddle since switching between unicycles is relatively easy and doesn’t require additional adjustment as long as you have a seatpost on each unicycle. However, that leaves you with a seatpost that could possibly scratch frames or other parts or get scraped on the ground. To prevent this I cut a hole in an old tennis ball and it fit great on the pivotal seatposts that I have.
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Attached are a few photos of my current setup for all kinds of Muni except pure technical DH.
It is incredibly comfortable. I feel like I could ride forever without chafing or front soreness. All the pressure is on the sit bones. Control is good, especially for technical XC where you are twisting a lot and pulling over roots. Saddle angle is set at 1 groove visible (2nd to highest angle). The “T” of the T-bar is cut to 120 mm width.
The photos show a prototype T-bar handle with a curve that’s not currently available.
However it’s possible to get close to the setup with the uncurved T-bar handle or (with the handle somewhat further out) the Shadow handle bar; I think there were photos/comments previously about that setup.
The front bumper with the hole is easiest to cut; alternatively the front handle could be removed and spacers / washers inserted under the L-brackets before bolting them to the saddle.
Kris
Zeroed
After trying several different combinations of saddle angle and handle bar positions my uni is finally Zeroed, meaning that I’ve found the zero zone, a place where I feel comfort and performance are optimized. A state of bliss, lol!
The Zero is so comfortable once your set up is correct. In my case I’m set up for road riding. My saddle is angled backwards one notch and my T-bar is angled slightly downwards so that the handle bars are positioned just lower than the saddle. When l lean on the handle bars my arms are straight.
I’m using the shadow handle bars with rubber hand grips. The grips add thickness to the bars making them very comfortable to lean on.
There is some downward flex when the T-bar is extended. In my set up I have the T-bar resting against the saddle post. I have a rubber insert between the T-bar and post to protect the post and to reduce any natural vibration caused by uneven road surface etc.
With my set up zeroed in I’ve been able to cycle until my energy runs out with no saddle discomfort. Riding on road camber has become much easier. I can now lean into the camber without my saddle pushing out against my inner thigh. With wider saddles I found that I had to lean and twist my back more to overcome the outward pressure of the saddle against my inner thigh which was throwing me off centre.
I’ve also noticed that after a long session on the Zero that I don’t feel pressure on my hips as with a wider saddle.
In the photo my brake lever is a bit far from the T-bar, I’ve since angled it up so that it is easier to operate.
I’m running 125mm Quax light cranks etc.
Thanks to Kris for his continued pursuit of quality and advancement in unicycling. He’s a true pioneer.
As for me I’m going to increase my distance riding.
Thanks so much for that awesome review.
I’d be stoked if you could add that as a product review online, wherever you bought this.
My biggest nervousness with releasing this saddle was that - given that it’s different - some riders will give up before they make the necessary adjustments and never realize how comfortable it could have been.
Attached are photos of the T-bar mounted without the front handle, as close as it can get to the saddle.
Attached are photos of the T-bar mounted without the front handle, as close as it can get to the saddle.
My guess is that this may become one of the most popular choices for muni and all-around use.
Note that the the F Zero has the plastic handle inset 2.5 mm into the base (increases the height of ribs through the front part). That means that you need to stack about 3 mm of washers between the L bracket and the base, at each bolt. See the attached photo.
Hello Kris, first of all, let me congratulate you on this wonderful saddle. It takes courage to invest your time and money into something so revolutionary as the Zero saddle.
I always felt that there was room for more innovation when it came to unicycle saddles but I couldn’t quite figure out what was needed. But when I saw the picture of the Zero on your post, I thought…YES! this is it.
Yes, I’d be more than happy to put my review up as a product review. I bought mine from Roger in UDC UK., so I will organise with Roger to put it online.
Thanks so much! Is it OK if I use the first line of your review as a quote? I don’t know your name except for your handle.
Yes indeed you can. Please feel free to use all of the review or any part of it to promote the Zero.
Super, thanks =)
