Not necessarily more difficult, but it requires unnecessary effort. If you’re looking to tackle concrete trails, that larger, fatter tire not only adds weight, but also friction. It just means that you’ll be putting forth more effort for each rotation made. Also, stock muni’s tend to come with longer cranks made to aid in stability. If you’re looking to also hit smooth flat trails, that extra length won’t do much more than slow you down.
I started muni/distance riding on a 26" uni with a 2.8" tire and 137/157(I think) swappable cranks. When I was hitting the trails I’d be using the 157(long) length for stability and confidence, semi low tire pressure to absorb bumps. When I was just riding on paved I’d up the tire pressure and shorten the cranks. I needed the tire to roll smoother and the cranks to create a smaller circumference, allowing me to pedal faster.
What folks are saying is that it is harder to ride a fat tire on concrete compared to riding a “normal” tire on concrete. In other words, it is easier to ride paved roads (camber issues excluding), but fat tire is a questionable option there.
Please also take into account that Hatchet uses 125mm bearing pitch. While there are riders who like it, a shorter person might be uncomfortable with the hub width.
I was wondering what I was gonna ride tomorrow after work, before going home - I always tell my wife I have to work late, but instead I just take an hour or so for myself unicycling
I will just put my hatchet in the car for tomorrow. Hopefully it isn’t going to rain.
I think I have decided on the 26" Nimbus Oracle. The options available are the default 32" minimum leg length and the chopped 28" minimum leg length. My leg length 29.75". Would you recommended I go with the 28" or the 32"? Will there be room to go up on the 28"? And for the cranks, would you recommend the ISIS 114mm, 125mm, or (default) 150mm?
If it were me I would just go with the longer seat post and cut it down as necessary. As long as you have a hacksaw (with an appropriate metal cutting blade) and something to trim the rough edges with, that will keep you covered I just cut a bit off at a time until I get the seatpost length right where I want it.
I can’t quite give advice for crank length for muni specifically, though I’ll say I really like the multi-hole VCX cranks. Especially if you plan on using the Oracle both on pavement and off-road, you’ll be able to easily change crank length as needed without having to bust out the crank extractor and a spare pair of cranks.
Just remember that as you change crank length, you’d need to move the saddle up/down to maintain your desired leg position. In that case when trimming a seat post, I’d put the pedals in the longest crank position (150mm) and trim the seat post just so it doesn’t poke past the bottom of the crown. That way you can maximize the amount of post in the uni for all crank lengths available to you.
Echo again the above posts, you can always shorten a long seat post, you can’t make a short one any longer. Also, be careful if you use a pipe cutter. While far quicker and more effective than a hacksaw, it will cause the location of the cut to swell. If you insert a seatpost into the unicycle immediately following a cut with a pipe cutter it can swell inside of the frame and cause some serious issues, like getting almost irremovably stuck. Be sure to trim the roughness and file down any freshly cut seatpost once it’s sat for about 15 minutes or so. Make sure that it fits into the frame and rotates and adjust smoothly before tightening everything down.
As far as cranks go. You can ride one wheel and you’re looking for something new and versatile. I say go for the 125s. You won’t likely be hitting the most technical downhills in your town anytime soon, but they’ll still provide plenty of control during some casual off-roading. They’re also short enough that they’ll allow you to do some casual distance rides on gravel or paved trails with a decent amount of speed and comfort.
I’ll probably go with the default 32" and make sure to not cut too much off. I’m also seeing now there is an option called Nimbus VCX Plus - 100/125/150mm for an extra $35. What kind of crank upgrade is this? Is it still the ISIS cranks because I’ve heard good things about those.
Those are still true ISIS cranks; however, they have multiple pedal holes creating different crank lengths while in use. Those are a fantastic option if they’re in your price range. They allow you to easily change the length of your cranks by simply swapping the pedals to a new hole. A great option for someone looking to ride multiple uni styles on one unicycle. They may seem a bit intimidating at first because on the smallest length you’ll have extra crank sticking out behind the pedals. Seems like something that might hit your foot or ankle. From my experience, that extra bit of crank does not ever get in the way. If you go with those, I do recommend getting comfortable riding on a flat surface with each length before you start swapping lengths before each style of ride.
To how many bar or psi should the 26 x 4.8" hatchet tire be pumped up again? I know it was less than the other uni’s. Prolly is also stated on the wheel right.
I‘m no expert, but I‘m pretty sure it depends on your tire model, the rim width, your weight, the terrain you‘re planning to ride and your preferences / riding style. And probably other factors that I didn’t think of.
I‘d start with something like 12psi and lower the pressure until you reach the optimal pressure. Don‘t forget to take a pump with you, since you‘re likely to overshoot at some point and ride with too low a pressure.
I‘m usually riding in the 8-10psi range, but my tires aren‘t quite as fat (Kenda Juggernaut 26x4 and 45NRTH Dillinger 5 26x4.6, but actual dimensions are smaller). Inner rim width is 65mm.
I ride all my unicycles, apart from the hatchet with just over 2 bar (around 30 psi) and the UW needs about 125 psi, very high pressure.
I don’t remember the standard hatchet tire, but I do remember it was just over 1 bar.
Hi Rylundo
I have the 26” Oracle and I am very happy about it.
It is perfect for muni and with the VCX+ cranks I can spin the wheel a little faster on flat terrain or hard surfaces.
The 3” wide muni tire is not perfect for hard surfaces, and sometimes the tire makes my helmet visor vibrate…
There really is no versatile unicycle, but a 26” muni probably is as versatile as it gets. Except perhaps for a 27.5” for the greater tire choice.
Anyway, a 26” or 27.5” muni is going to be a marked improvement from a 20” both with regard to speed potential and difficult terrain.
I just bought the 26" Oracle abiut an hour ago. I wanted to go with the 27.5" but the minimum leg length was longer than my legs so I went with the length I can cut down a little. I also chose the VXC Plus cranks. I’m really looking forward to trying it!
That’s a good unicycle and a very good choice for the purpose described by you! Congratulations, and I am happy for you!
Someone suggested you to use pipe cutter to shorted the post, please do not ignore this advice. If you do not have a pipe cutter, ask your local unicycling community about.
I’ve asked one of my College’s directors of the maintenance department if I could borrow their tools and they said I would be able to. There I will at least put it together but if they have the pipe cutter and reamer I will use them instead of a hacksaw. My parents have a pipe cutter at home so if the school doesn’t have one, I might just wait until I go back to cut it. About the “local unicycling community,” I don’t think that exists here. I very well might be wrong, but I haven’t seen any other riders. I just randomly decided one day it sounded like fun and bought a used unicycle for $20 on Facebook Marketplace.
Congratulations! Unicyclism called for you, and you heard the call. YOU are the local unicycling community. May you inspire others to join the balanced side.
I got one of my friends to try it for about 10 minutes while holding onto a wall. He said he would be more willing to learn if the seat wasn’t so uncomfortable.
I just cut a bit off at a time until I get the seatpost length right where I want it.