Guni Suspension, New plans

Hey peeps, i posted my plans into another thread, but here it is, just pencil and paper drawings (the thing in the upper left hand corner is a sideveiw of the frame for the chain tensioner) hope you like it, please respond or add ideas to it w00t

oh! oops, also, the hub will be mounted to a berring inside the frame, and the berring will have some sorta of mounting bracket to the spring, i might also have 2 springs on either side. Its really good i think, how bout anyone else?

Edit: instead of spring, i might just put small shocks inside, probably bike shocks or something, i need to contain it very small though

It looks as if the frame slides as shown will allow the cogs to travel with respect to each other. This of course makes chain tensioning impossible. The driving cogs and the driven cogs must be on the same side of the spring. Maybe I have misinterpreted your sketch.

Edit: Oh, I see your chain tensioner. This would have to be one REALLY STIFF puppy. The force that you exert with your legs is enormous. This is why derailleur systems don’t work on unicycles. Think about moving your slide system and keeping the cogs all on the same side of the slide split. This will greatly simplify your design.

The chain tensioner isn’t going to work. It is impossible to make a strong and adjustable chain tensioner that will work on a fixed gear bike/unicycle.

Adjustable chain tensioners don’t work on fixed gear bikes. The only way to do it is to overengineer the thing and weld it directly to the bike frame. Any adjustability in it would have to be locked in place with strong bolts. There is no way to do it with springs and auto adjustment. There is just too much force on a fixed gear chain and the chain gets force in both directions.

A derailleur works on a standard 10 speed style bike because the chain only gets force in one direction. The bottom section of chain is always slack. Not so on a fixed gear bike or a guni.

What is your right crank attached to?

It might work better to have your gearing horizontal instead of vertical and have the wheel traveling in a bit of an ark to maintain the same tension on the chain at all times. Of-course you would get some wheel movement when it goes up and down, but with the chain tensioner in there you would get it anyway, and it would be less sloppy when putting back pressure on the pedals (you won’t be compressing the chain tensioner).

To figure out what would work well think about each component and what forces would go through each of them. Make sure everything has an equal and opposite force and you wont be surprised by a piece breaking when/if you build your design.

ok thanks guys, Ive found a few mistakes myself, such as frame sizing. I think at a possible point, it might work, i might be able to put a shock on the tensioner. I think i may need to post a sideveiw of the frame

yeah, thanks guys once again, it took me a bit just to think of the right side, Considering i have access to a full metal shop, i might try and design something, i might just put the system on both sides, or make it like a girraffe and put another hub on the seatpost area, and then make that fit its way onto both sides, such as a giraffe, like a migdet girraffe on steroids

but then again, its the whole concept of suspension, and myself, i cant think of anything better that will suspension EVERYTHING except the tire itself. I think it might work just to make it like super wide and put the whole gear system on both sides

As drawn, the axle remains fixed to the wheel so everything does not float except the wheel as you say. From the standpoint of suspension your system does the same thing as a suspension seat post but with increased complexity. The saddle moves with respect to the wheel and pedals, the telescoping just takes place in a different location.

Ah, I thought that you had the cranks attached to the frame and the wheel on a shorter axle, that is why I asked about the right side.

If you want some good ideas you should check out this thread. It has lots of good discussion about different designs and their strong points/weaknesses.

A midget suspension giraffe on steroids sounds interesting though:)

kay, i’ll draw up some plans tomorrow after school i guess. As you can see, my handwriting sucks. And that drawing was much better looking before my printer decided to make things too light, for i compensated

if you do get it to work your pant leg will get caught in your chain and you will fall. i know that happens to me all the time

This thread is full of fail.

Unicycles don’t need suspension, get out and ride.

It’d prob help w/ big drops though. Everything else it’d be unnessesary, a 3" tire works great, possibly better than suspension.

…but then look what happened w/ DH bikes. They started w/ really fat tires, and now I don’t think any of the pro DH racers ever use anything wider than a 2.3", thanks to tubeless tires and improved suspension desighns.

Show of hands who lands on their seat on big drops?

Suspension on a bike is there because they have two wheels, which causes the bike to buck forward and backward, thus suspension helps that.

On a Unicycle, your legs are suspension.

If you’re landing on the seat on big drops, you either have the seat too high, or you need to get some more leg muscle going on.

I do when I mess up, which only happens once im around 7-8 feet high.

Anything smaller, and most street stuff I land with the legs first, and lower myself into the seat afterwards. I tried to explain that I do this, and how it helps with plastic bases lasting a lot longer, but I got ganged up on saying I was wrong. lol. Funny people.

Show of hands if you don’t “get” what this thread is about? Thanks Borg. If you don’t want/need suspension go away. This is more an engineering problem and is obviously not intended to improve general unicycling. He’s already got a chain on there for gosh sakes!

Suspension is not for drops and extreme terrain, unless the rider can be suspended separately from the wheel. But a nice, lite suspension system can do wonders for road riding or light MUni, when you’re seated. If the intention here is to suspend the wheel separately from the pedals, that’s still a problem that hasn’t been solved for “standard” unicycles. Definitely worth pursuing.

If you’re not trying to suspend the wheel separately from the pedals, I’ll have to go along with Harper on recommending a suspension seatpost. Even if you want to build your own, your results would be useful for any unicycle and might still do just as much as what you’re working on now at much less weight and complexity. I’ve used suspension posts on two of my unicycles (both MUnis) and they’ve worked great.

Ok, have fun with your silly suspension ideas. :roll_eyes:

Cmon’ Jerrick, let’s get out of here, these senile men are rambling again. :frowning:

well, im back on peoples lol. Yes, Thanks John for supporting me a bit. Ive already had a bunch of people ask me what the point is. The point in itself is to break slightly new ground. If someone gets an idea out there, that can work, its bound to be able to be made smaller and lighter. Right now my system that i was working on has doubled in size practically… lol… i’m going to try and get it as small as i can when i do get to the metal shop and piece things together. When im done im going to spraypaint it neon green (my best friends idea lol)

Those who don’t understand this will give no constructive input, will experiment with nothing different, and will never see the fruits of “senile men” rambling, even in the field of unicycling and even in the not so far past. How long ago was it that the trials unicycle pictured in Borgschulze’s avatar or anything even similar to it did not exist anywhere?