Woohoo. It’s really great to see how they’ve embraced this as a unicyclists item. I really feel like all the discussions and insights given formed part of this post - I think it is rare for a company to make the product so distinctly for a niche group of customers.
Hats off to LightBicycle for listening well and creating this.
Now I just have to wait 2-3 weeks for the shipping to take its course!!! 
Rim in the UK - arrival slated for Monday 
(Anyone detect a certain level of excitement?!?)
It arrived early and it’s magical.
Just need to build it now of course. But I’m really happy with what I see!
Congrats on what seems to be a great component for a great unicycle.
Amazing! I’m jealous now. Still waiting for mines, which should arrive by the end of June 
They ship fast and being first doesn’t mean much other than discovering issues if there are any.
I’ll be measuring its ERD soon and seeing if it matches 755 as quoted by LB
It weighs spot on 580 grams
ERD updates - measured using ERD sticks we have some interesting results:
Sapim Double Square nipples: 763
SimWorks Brass Nipples: 759
Note these are professionally made and cut ERD sticks so I trust there settings - and the SimWorks nipple would in my view correspond directly to any standard nipple style or shape we’d have on classic 36” spokes. They’re nice but nothing different is design as far as I’m aware.
Double Square do require longer spokes as they have a deeper thread into the section beyond the seat of the nipple.
I am 99% sure that this means I can reuse my Nimbus 36” rim spokes from my current G36er build - which would be ace!
Using the Schlumpf125mm hub
—> ERD of 759:
I get spoke lengths of: 358.5/360.8 (359/361 rounded)
—> ERD of 763:
I get spoke lengths of: 360.2/362.8 (361/363 rounded up by closest 1mm)
This is using a calculator that factors in asymmetrical builds.
The spoke lengths of the current build using the Nimbus 36” rim are I believe: 360/362
I’ve checked this on UDC’s rim data which shows ERD 764.5 but the site calculator shows 762. (Bit odd right?)
Question:
Do we think that 360/362 lengths are too short to use when looking at the output for 763 ERD (this would be using DoubleSquare nipples?
Or would it be safer to use the standard nipples (reusing I know isn’t best but it hasn’t been ridden long) which would put my current spokes at over by 1mm each when going by the 759 output.
Penny pitching isn’t needed here really but I don’t really enjoy buying fully custom cut spokes for the sake of 1mm ish if I can help it.
I’d naturally prefer to find a way to use the DoubleSqaure nipples I got for this build - but want to be sure I’m not pushing the spoke length minimums here.
My gut says I should probably use the normal ones as I’ve have room to play with.
Progress - re laced it 2.5 times as I change my mind on pattern a few times …
Sadly recent urgent hospital visits are restricting my time to complete this fully.
I suspect I’ll get it true in a day or two
I’m sure you’ve seen it before. It’s the basic one - following Ryan’s approach.
I toyed with copying what Ali Clarkson advises re starting the first quarter of spokes on the “most important” side - that being the disc side (NDS) but changed my mind as most of my other wheels including ones from Ryan have the first sequence done on the NDS (non-disc side) first - this all leads to a difference in the twist one does with the hub and the way spokes trail or lead.
I did toy but decided not to follow Ryan’s step for Shimano lacing where the second quarter spokes perform the first “cross” and lock the pattern.
Might be good for bikes and front disc brakes. But for this wheel it is part rear and front wheel.
Yeah. Just the angle of the photo and the fact it is a bit baggy at the min.
Off to visit Ryan re other wheels - but hoping to pick up a square nipple driver which will be great 
Photos of wheels always tend to look odd I find. Possible to figure out perhaps if a mistake was made but even looking at a lace in person issues can sometimes go unnoticed.
But I’m confident it’s right - in part due to the fact the rim as alternating spoke hole drilling angles and the asymmetrical nature of it making it very fixed as to where to put spokes.
Think we have a winner (don’t jinx it Felix!)
I’ve built the wheel and tensioned it up to true.
Rim: Unicus 36” from LightBicycle
Tyre: NightRider Lite
Tube: TPU
Tape: Two laps of Scotch tape (official brand)
Park Tool Numbers: DS 20, NDS (disc) 25-26
Install: it was very very very hard to get this tyre in the rim - even the first side needed a plastic lever.
The final edge again needed two plastic lever and it was a nightmare to have the TPU tube not get trapped under one edge section after I got the lip over and on. Managed to free it by holding tyre edge up a bit with tyre lever and pumping some air in.
Metal ones don’t use - don’t even like using plastic but the rim is tougher than you’d imagine.
It is now neatly seated and holding 55ish PSI.
Spokes have gone floppy so I’ll have to add tension
I got to that level as that’s where I’d max my needs - and then I ran away from the wheel after stowing it in the summer house in the garden.
I’m not really worried about this rim but if it is going to blow off it’ll happy I think within the first few hours after install or directly after pumping.
So - yes I think this is going to be reliable as much or more so than the Braus rim - but of course this could be in part thanks to the TPU tube.
I do think that when a rim is very tight to get the tyre on - and one that is supposed to be a loose fit - we are where we need to be.
It’s even all the way around and the hook plus rim dimensions all speak of this being THE rim we always wanted. Just wear a T-shirt, stretch your thumbs and hands and be ready to muscle a tyre on with the use of plastic tyre levers.
I’ll get a photo when I trust it won’t make a bang!
Thanks for this review! As far as I know, you should not be worried of pinching the tube. TPU don’t pinch flat, as butyl does. It shouldn’t explode either.
You should probably invest in a BBB EasyTire tool:
It doesn’t cost much but it seems really useful. I have used mine once and it was amazingly easy to set the tire on the rim. I’ll have a try with it when I’ll receive my new Unicus rims 
Great news!
I hope it will also be possible to remove the tire. With my braus rims, I have no trouble mounting the tire, but dismounting it is a horror. The tire sticks to the rim like a leech.
I confess that I use a metal tire iron to remove the KG ultimate tire on the braus carbon rim.
@Maxence is BBB EasyTire really useful for dismounting the tire or especially for mounting it?
I think you meant that Felix shouldn’t be afraid to pinch the TPU inner tube.
I can see that you’re really convinced by TPU tubes. Do you really think that a TPU tube inflated to 3 bars won’t explode? You mean it expands much more slowly than a butyl tube and you have time to deflate it?
Do you think that the fact that it expands and deforms more slowly will lead to a different type of puncture without exploding?
Never tried to dismount a tire with the tool, yet. I’ll let you know the next time I have to remove one. Probably on the end of June, when I have received my new rims 
Correct, fixed. Thanks!
As per my (little) experience, it shouldn’t explode when pumping it up. It doesn’t mean it can never explode, but in most cases the tube will simply slide and place itself into the rim instead of blowing up. That’s just a feeling, but it feels like the material itself is less rough than butyl - that can explain why the tubes usually just slide instead of being pinched.
Should it explode at 3 bars if the tire pops of the rim? That’s an other topic. I’m not sure at all, but I guess it will simply deform. Does one of you want to give it a try?
To be clear: TPU tubes are not perfect. Their quality seems to be really uneven. But when you are lucky and pick the right one, then lots of your problems are now no more problems
I second this view point as the material while it feels more fragile and crinkly, think it is in fact tougher, perhaps due to being somehow stiffer and therefore more resistive to the sticky kind of pinching under a tyre edge you’d picture from butyl.
I was still on edge (ha!) regarding it being trapped and the TPU tube does have an annoying habit of being very flat and not round. Plus it fits very close to the actual inside diameter of the rim itself. Less stretchy than the butyl counterparts.
So what is TPU’s advantage in this 36” - I think it grows out and pushes the tyre into place really uniformly. The stiffness helps this and I do feel like it is less likely to explode. It would of course without a tyre or rim - but when it is in situ I think it I so precisely set to fit that rim and tyre that it gets to where you need it and stays there more predictably.
Butyl tubes for 36ers always feel oversized and I’ve said it before else where go into the tyre space - rather than around the rim (as a TPU one does).
If I got a line of butyl tube trapped under the rim edge it would stay there and get nipped and then I’d find out about it a bit later on - probably with a bang.
TPU’s only downside is that it feels weird to install as it is so tight to the rim diameter - but I also see that it is from this we can a full void install.
I don’t know the science behind this all as I would imagine all exploding tyres pop the same way on a fundamental, explosive level. But my gut still pictures this being different and just tougher to snag, pinch or pin prick.
Only time will tell -
As for this rim’s difficulty in taking the tyre off - I’ll probably be a bit harder than the Braus - which I know can be hard, but I’d say it is doable. From today’s experience I’d opt for just one wrap of scotch tape. Two probably didn’t help.
I think it being difficult is good for anyone using this with either butyl or TPU inners - so I think I’d prefer a tight fit over a looser one.
This thread has discussed a few different carbon rims and wheel builds. Just to be clear and for future reference can you list the make, brand, size and model of rim you used and any other wheel build details that may be useful?
Edited above - and done so:
I did create a thread for this new LightBicycle rim but all content started to drift to this thread and now it is too fiddly to request it is moved over.
I’ve not been able to ride this as I’m under hospital advice to avoid over exerting myself (possible retinal tear!)… but happily it has held 50PSI without issue and I would happily add more if I needed it.
Braus needed around 49PSI to feel stable for my 81kg - but I think this rim will feel just as stiff at 45PSI - tested to 50 as a max for me.
Very happy indeed
(Just hope I could get back to riding soon)
IIs it still those values after inflation and the adjustments you made afterwards?
Regarding the acronyms DS and NDS, I’ve just seen that they stand for Drive-Side and Non-Drive Side. I’m sure I’ve missed something, I’m basing this on the side of the disc.
