It unfortunately does not fit in the small hole. I used it on the larger spoke access holes, and it works to smooth the edge, but the flexible fibers just get pushed out if the way.
This was essentially half off already since it is a warranty for my previous rim with similar (but lesser) issues. Given the next best options are double the weight, they are still what I would choose again even if I knew I would get the same poor quality again.
I’m still happy and appreciate that they make this rim despite the small market.
I gave up on trimming the carbon on the smaller spoke holes… (I lost the tiny razor blade sliver and am really hoping I don’t step on it in the future)
Trimmed the carbon on the larger access holes though.
I forced the nipples through with some effort. Plenty of carbon dust and shavings getting thrown around in the process though which is probably not particularly healthy…
The other thought I had (after you said you had a solution using the part of a razor blade) was to use an end-mill of the same size as the hole/nipple and just put it in the hole and rotate it with your fingers.
My reasoning for using an end-mill is that it probably has four flutes which have a shorter pitch and are sharper than a drill, so might have a reasonable chance of cutting the slivers of carbon fibre – bit of a moot point given you’ve got the wheel built but it might be an idea for someone in the future.
Most bikes featured there appear to have the longer line facing forwards - baring one bike where the front wheel has the long line facing forwards and its rear wheel has the long line facing backwards.
I’ve taken a close up look at the amazing video Ride Everywhere and from freeze frames it seems that wheel was built with the long line facing backwards.
This was the direction in which the first 36" wheels with this rim were built by truebikes (Mtb - Truebike). I’ve just seen on your link that they’re built the other way…
I like the way you’ve laced it and as it matches the way I can see it was laced in the Ride Everywhere video - I think that’s clear enough that it either doesn’t matter or that is the best way
It’s a sight to behold and handle as it feels really ridged and nicely balanced / weighted.
The inside of the rim has some - what I will term - standard blemishes or even manufacturing marks, and while they don’t look ideal when compared with the likes of LightBicycle - they do give the feeling of being hand made and finished. Perhaps I am too tolerant but I don’t think they actually impact the design of the rim and are part of the process in making them.
The wheel was built up without issue by Roger so that side of things is fine. There are some strands of fibre in the valve hole so that may need some filing to get a presta tube installed.
Will get some scotch tape on soon and install a TPU tube and King George Ultimate tyre.
(I could use a Vee T-monster tyre for this but that seems a bit silly so taking the greater risk of blow offs with the lightest tyre and tube set up available.)
Does anyone have their spoke tensions for the Braus rim - ideally with a schlumpf hub?
I am asking as the spokes feel pretty slack since the tyre’s been put to 45PSI.
I know this is partly to be expected but the NDS spokes are really easy to squish.
Wondering if this is kind of normal with this rim + hub or if I should get myself a spoke tension tool and check. But for that I’d kind of like to know the tensions people are using currently as a starting point / bench mark to know if my wheel is really low or out of spec.
Hi Felix
Can’t help with you spoke tensions unfortunately, but it is fairly comment for the spokes to slacking of a bit when the tyre is put on the rim and inflated, the same happened to my 27.5” carbon rim. My wheel builder confirmed this and I took it back to have them tensioned.
I’m guessing it’s the forces used to install the tyre on the rim and then inflate it, kind of squashed the rim which results slackings of the spokes.
Maybe be worth mentioning it to Roger as someone else already mentioned about. Hope this helps
I’ve read that it’s recommended to build your wheel without the tire, but like you, I get big differences in tension when I inflate the tire (to the point where the rim is no longer centred).
So I adjust the spoke tension with the tyre inflated. I go up to 110kgf on the disc side.
But the tension can exceed 160kgf if I deflate the tire…
I did chase LB for an update on this 36” rim and today I got this, which sounds promising:
Hi Felix,
Sorry for the late reply. I am back to work this week. Our engineers are not so busy these two weeks. We can proceed on the 36" rims. And I am starting to buy the tire for lab test here. Normally, what hub do you use for wheelbuilding? I have to caculate on the spoke hole drilling angle.
I’ve gone back with the two hubs I’d picture using for this - Nimbus 125 disc or Schlumpf 125 disc.
In any case I’d say I’d be hopeful this turns out like a working rim and not a repeat of the Nextie debacle
I only replied with the hubs I’d use so in that case it would be 36h and 125mm.
But I doubt it would be too much of an issue for them to figure out spoke angles for 100mm hubs.
I think the spoke hole angles is really the smallest worry we have.
I did impress upon them the need to ensure the rim will work with ALL TYRES out there and at up to 60psi to cater for all desires and rider weights
Here’s hoping they come up with a rim profile that is part-Dominator2 and part-Braus. I’d love to see a merged design.
Incidentally- had my first Braus G36er ride today.
Love it - and how responsive it is. Noticed the de-acceleration to be super smooth and confidence inspiring.
It still gives that 36er roll over feel but I was taken aback by how much control I got from it. Nimble.
Took me a while to get used to being on a 100mm hub stance as used to the wider set up, and the King George Ultimate tyre initially felt quite different to the Vee and Nimbus I’ve used before. But there were many weird tracking moments where the wheel went sideways in an awkward fashion that on the Dominator2 rim I’d have UPD’d but with this wheel I was able to catch this off balance and pull myself back into line.
I did retention the wheel after a chat with Roger and settled on the NDS being at around 22 on the TM-1 chart and the DS is at around 27.
Perhaps that a bit high but it is within spoke gauge spec and the new hubs have really beefy flanges.
I got a few pings from the spokes settling into things but since then it feels nice and stiff yet compliant over bumps (not jarring!).
I got the tyre up to 49psi and it feels perfect. Do notice more camber issues with this wheel than the Vee tyre on the D2 rim, but thanks to the wheel’s responsiveness it feels manageable if not massively fun on the long angled uphill section of path I face on my 15 mile route.
The TL;DR to all this is:
I. Love. Light. Carbon. Wheels.
Oh yes, it’s very high, but if you don’t break any spokes, why not?
I built my G36 wheel a week ago : 24 on the disc side and 17 on the opposite side. It should go up to 27 if I deflate the inner tube.
And I’ve settled for 40 psi… I’m not reassured beyond that.
This topic is so tricky. You’ve gone and made me reconsider my numbers so I’ve looked to drop them a tad on both sides 20/25. Matches my other 36ers better.
As for PSI I know it is dependent on rider weight so I can personally look to fix me - but I can’t ride on anything less that 45PSI as it feels too soft and squirmy.
Luckily I do feel pretty safe and confident with the TPU tube at 49psi (famous last words!)… but when storing the wheel in my bedroom I do let air out so I don’t have the background worry of a loud bang during my sleep.
