Fat tires are fat. They need a fat frame. The tire doesn’t even fit between the bearing holders of a 100mm frame when inflated. I need to deflate my fat tire when I take my wheel off!
Prototype MUNI- Frame from QU-AX, QX
Hello @ all
Pictures from a Prototype - Frame form QX (QU-AX)
Its for Normal Hubs (100mm Bearing to Bearing)
The Frame is Designed for 26x 4.0 Tyres
Sweet other than the useless Maggie mounts. Find me a fat rim still in production with brake tracks on it.
Is this an actual QX frame, or something you’ve built FROM a QX frame?
This is a prototype, made by Qu-Ax.
For the Vee Tire Snowshoe 2XL, what does this mean:
Compound: PSC Compound 50 A, Silica Compound 57 A
26×5.05 (SILICA) Tubeless Ready $150
26×5.05 (PSC) Tubeless Ready $170
Silica vs PSC? I’m lost…
Silica compound versus pure silica compound.
The more silica the grippier and faster wearing the tire. Psc has more silica than sc.
also higher “A” numbers are harder rubber. 50 is really soft, should grip well but wear out quickly if ridden on hard surfaces in the summer.
Has anyone really worn out a tire riding muni? Mine looks like new, then again I don’t ride all that much. Meanwhile I burn through tires mountain biking.
Anyone up for would you rather?
Would you rather have a badass Vee Snowshoe 2XL 5.05" so you can say you’ve got the biggest or a studded fat tire for winter riding? 45NRTH makes 4" and 4.8" studded tires – very expensive. For riding down ski slopes, I’ve found my Nokian Freddies Revenz gives me great bite on hard pack icy east coast trails, but it’s too narrow on softer flats.
Yes.
When I went to Moab I was amazed by how much my tires wore. I had more wear on a tire from two days of riding slickrock than I had on a tire I rode at home for three years.
There will be huge variations in wear depending on where and how you ride.
Was looking at the tire page on this popular website here. Found 3 fat-ish tires in 29", been thinking my uni would love a different tire to go off road. I have a 2015 KH frame, so that should work.
Anyone knows any of those tires? How do they (would they) behave on a muni?
http://www.probikeshop.com/en/fr/mtb/tyres-inner-tubes-29-mtb-tyres
There is only 2 different tires (the 2nd & 3rd are just different TPI versions).
Both tires exists in 27.5" versions and the Panaracer is out for months now. I remember seeing a dedicated topic in the German section. Maybe one of them tried them already and posted a review (in German).
I am sure there is plenty of MTB reviews all over the web. It is just a bit harder to guess how it applies to Muni 
Thanks Sid,
Read about the TPI index - it was a bit vague for me until I actually researched it - so in theory the 60 TPI should be more suitable for our unis, correct?
Read the german thread thanks to googletransl but couldn’t find interesting info about the Panaracer.
Surly Knard 26x3 review:
I have a “vintage” 2009 Nimbus 26-inch muni with the original Gazzaloddi tire. Today, I switched to a Surly Knard 26x3.0 with Q-tube super light 26x2.4-2.7 tube. Weight savings 1.2 lbs. Pretty cool. I have always loved my Gazz, but then again, it’s all I have ever know. Plus, I probably have it dialed-in pretty well.
So…out of the gate, holy crap – the Knard rocks. I felt way faster and almost effortless. The tire really felt much easier, even mounting. Super awesome - what else can I say? I started at 14.5lbs and ended up at 12lbs. I usually ride my Gazz at 19-22lbs. The Knard has a much rounder profile then the Gazz. It’s currently on the Nimbus rim, but I will be switching over to the Rabbit Hole, which should make the profile slightly flatter.
The one big issue I had was that on cambered terrain - meaning slight sideways slope as opposed to fore/aft – it was not fun. The tire really wanted to turn downhill and I had to really concentrate to hold a straight line. I never experienced this on the Gazz. To me, this is important, as the cambered side of a trail is usually better then the muck down in the middle, whether its sand, gravel, or mud.
The tire feels very bouncy when I’m not on it, so I may try dropping the pressure a few more lbs for the next ride to see if this helps. I have a feeling tubeless might make it perform better as well. Other then this issue, it’s a winner vs. my Gazz.
I was in need of a big tube for a presta rim and ended up buying a Specialized Fat tube (Presta) at my LBS…
I searched the web for information about it and was not able to find the weight anywhere.
So here is the interstellar exclusive buzz (insert-trendy-adjective-here): it is an anchor (539g) !
On the upside, it can fill any tire on the market without any stretching 
Why don’t you go tubeless?
I am too lazy for tubeless and it seems too messy for my taste. I am more of a light tube + slime sealant kind of guy.
I got this tube to have a working wheel. I could not drill for shradder (no drill available) and the LBS had no freeride tube for sale 
I will replace it whenever I have an opportunity and it still makes a nice emergency tube 
I was initially surprise that nobody talks about this tube’s weight (or Google is hiding things from me… ).
You should go tubeless. When using a carbon rim it’s a bit hard to setup if you dont have a compressor, but when it’s set, it’s set for real. You just need tubeless tape, scellant and you are ready to go! On my carbon rim I even rode the tire without scealant for a while because the bead was so tight.
It’s not messy when you do it the proper way!
I see what you mean ! I removed the tire for some cleaning before installing another one and I thought it will never get off !!! One youtube vid later, it was off the rim but it is a very different technique and I can see how valuable it is for tubeless.