I ride the IceTech rotor and it works perfect. Never had any issues
Here’s my setup: http://unicyclist.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1617688&postcount=1252
That’s a nice looking uni!!! But that’s an SLX rotor and not the ice tech rotor, the ice tech have an aluminum hub that’s thicker:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-XT-SM-RT86-Rotor-6-Bolt/dp/B009XGH064
Hm, now I’m a bit confused. I bought it as an IceTech rotor, two years ago, and you can clearly see the tree layers: steel, aluminium, steel. But the SM-RT66s you can buy now seen to be non-IceTech and all IceTech rotors seem to have the thick plastic spider…
I’m most likely wrong about your rotor if you can see the different layers, shimano changes things so fast it’s hard to keep up. I’ve looked at the newer style ice tech rotors at the bike store and there is some variance on the aluminum center hub as well, that’s why I was curious about clearance. Some have a stamped aluminum spider while others have a machined(thicker) style spider. I ended up ordering an SLX RT66 rotor to pair with my xt brake because I know that combo worked great on my kh26.
I’ve seen an XT Rotor with the aluminum spider on a KH Spirit setup. It was 180mm rotor, KH Spirit cranks on a Flansberrium frame. I’m very probably getting an XT rotor for my updated spring setup 
The thicker side of the rotor is on the outside, the beautifully finished side is facing the frame.
My .02 but I’ve got the SRAM centerline rotors on my fat bike and like them so much that I bought one for my unicycle.
Sooo much quieter than my standard SRAM BB7 rotors I’ve had before. It’ll be interesting to see how it does on a uni.
It’s been a while, and almost everyone’s running hydraulic disks.
What have you got, what do you use it for, and why do you like (or not like) it?
I think I’m in the market for a new brake (I also just need another one) and I’m looking at the Shimano XTR BR-M9120 as a possible option.
I’ve always liked Shimano brakes, I like the levers, I like the performance for the price you pay, I like how easy they are to bleed with tools I already have, with fluid I don’t need to worry about, and ease of getting parts.
I’ve looked at the Shimano Saint M820 as a possible option too, but it seems that they’re generally regarding as being more grabby with less modulation due to not having the servowave setup that the XTRs have.
I’d think I’d also like to be able to use/try the inline brake levers that Shimano do.
I’m not at all fussed about the difference in weight.
I’ve got a pair of those on the gravel bike I built up a while back – they are on the flats of drop bars with GRX-820 STI shifters and the associated flat-mount callipers. I haven’t tried them with flat-bar levers or any other calliper, but they are quite nice and I think they’d work fine with any mineral-oil levers/brakes. If I wanted to brake hard I’d still go for the main levers though, even from the hoods just so I can get four fingers on them. Part of that is also maybe because they were a real pain to bleed and feel a little bit spongy – I should probably give that another go at some point.
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The curse of many a brake. I can imagine those do make it more finicky.
The mashup XTR/XT situation on my 36er has a horrific case of the wandering bite point which I’m led to believe is typically a bleeding issue. That brake also hasn’t been bled about 7 years though and only has half a lever as I snapped it in half years ago.
Both have Servowave. Usually, servowave is blamed for making the brakes too grabby and not offering enough “modulation” btw. (I’ll spare you the full rant on “modulation”, but I think it’s the bikepart equivalent to saying a car has more “soul”. A lazy way to describe a subjective preference without providing proper explanation..)
Price to performance sweetspot on shimano is probably slx on the mid tier brakes IMO. I think above that differences are pretty marginal for the price increase, although now seems like a good time to buy the outgoing XTR or Saints for reduced prices as newer models are coming to the market.
The parts that you can get are easy to get quickly and anywhere. However it annoys me that many parts are not sold as spares. Leaking from the master piston - have to get a complete lever assembly because Shimano doesn’t want to sell you seals. (That’s the main thing I like about my hope brake.)
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Nice to see this thread resurrected!
I have a Magura and if I don’t use the uni for a while, it gets air inside and becomes spongy. Something must have aged not gracefully. Which never happened to any of the Shimanos on my other unis.
One thing though, I took the 32” for a ride, hadn’t used it for a long time - used to be my goto uni - and I was surprised by how bad the braking is. I guess I was used to it then, but it was a shock compared to the other ones. I assume the pads “glazed” (or whatever the technical term is), probably because we use our brake more to add drag than to really brake.
If anyone has recommendations for good uni-friendly brake pads, it could be useful too!
If you’ve got new pads, or haven’t used your unicycle for a while, I’ve found that removing the pads, giving them a good old rub together until they start gripping, and then reinstalling helps.
It’s very difficult to properly bed in new pads on a unicycle unless you live by a long steep hill.
Hmmm, not sure what brake I’m thinking of then.
The only thing I avoid on Shimano brakes is the ones where the lever guides are plastic, but I can’t remember which ones those are. Old XTs at least, not sure about new ones. I’ve had one break before which is why I ended up with an XTR lever.
I’ve seen people talk about servowave the other way around though - initial travel is faster, then it’s less as the brake grabs, which gives more modulation and more mechanical advantage where it matters.
I’ll probably grab some Saints seeing as they’re slightly cheaper.
I’m amazed there isn’t a third party company making Shimano spares.
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Oak components makes pretty amazing stuff, also for shimano. But their stuff is pricy.
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