I’m still so stoked to this day how much Triton has grown in the unicycling world. Speaking objectively, I honestly do believe ‘pound for pound’ they are the best overall frames for off-road unicycling.
The turn-around time for a Triton to be made isn’t that bad to be honest. It takes a lot longer for certain steel/chromo custom frame makers in The Americas and Europe to make a frame for a customer.
I totally agree with having the bearing holders centralised, though at least with the first two I received way back… they seemed fine?
As a friendly suggestion: cable-guides welded onto the tubing is something I personally (maybe just me… but still) would avoid. If you guys have ever heard of a really great newish trials brand called Trialtech (same company as Inspired Bicycles) then you’ll see that their ultra-strong and light forks used to have a cable guide welded on tubing… but that got removed for the following batches because it caused a stress riser around the cable guide and cracked the tubing. Not ideal.
^Chances of a titanium tube cracking like that is less likely than alu, but in theory it is still a potential issue in the long run. Cracking a great frame at such a petty location is such a gutting feeling.
Really light and neat stick-on cable guides which won’t stress-riser out your tubing. Plus you can always choose exactly where you want to place them. Nice price, and TartyBikes ship worldwide VERY fast and effectively at a really really good price.
Sponge, you are correct, I have also seen those cable guides crushing the whole fork. But we both ride bicycle trials and we know that the stress and the direction of stress applied on a trials fork is completely different compared to a municycle. Trials riders do things like hookups and touch hops. Which is basically slamming the bike (front wheel) against a wall
We have been using cable guides on all XC/Trials frames and they have never failed.
They will not trouble a unicycle frame too.
Those stick-on guides looks like a nice idea too. The only concern may be the glued attachment. Are you sure it will stay long?
On a unicycle frame the seat tube may be used to carry the unicycle and thus the guides could be torn off withing weeks (just a guess).
That’s def true for bike frames with cable guides, but I guess bike frames die earlier at other more stressing points like the headtube or chainstays.
I have noticed on some trials frames that the cable guide’s welding forms a bit of small ‘wrinkling’ after a while. For a uni frame though the stress placed on the seattube is pretty high, so there’s potential for a stress riser to form eventually. It’ll take longer on a Triton than say an alu frame but still… it’s good to keep the welding to a minimum imo. As such I’m totally against integrated seatclamps welded onto a frame… I’ve seen a few disasters before on BMXs!
Those stick-on guides are really really grippy. I doubt Tartybikes would run them on some of their own bikes otherwise. If positioned in the right places I don’t think that there would be much chance of them being rubbed off by say repeated leg brushing.
I think most people carry the unis by one leg if not rolling them so having those guides stuck onto the neck isn’t too much an issue.
Well You are all right about welding on hose mounts and seat clamp bolts.
I’m a Motorcycle Engineer and on e-mailing Dmitry asking about the hose mounts and knowing the XC Muni riding I do! I think it well last Me for years to come (until My next design idea).
I was after a clean look and I think this is as simple as hose mounts, No welded on seat clamps (the seat clamps I have used clamp all the way around the seat tube! unlike a weld on clamp!), Loads of room for Mud and stones, and a short seat post (to save weight).
Thank You very much Dmitry, Jogi, Sponge, and Ken Looi
Thanks alot, I am riding for an hour or two each night of the week and longer rides on the weekends. It roll’s and climb’s like I have a motor under the seat.
Thanks again.
Pete G…
Hi Saskatchewanian
Sorry for not replying to your Q’s.
Yes the KH top plate fits to a Thompson very well, you just have to angle the holes in and file the bottom a little so the bolts will angle in to the kh plate. I also make up some new tube nuts from 10mm SS rod, and drill and tap with M5x0.8 to fit the Thompson M5 bolts.
As for the brake brackethttp://http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46326&page=6 I hope this help’s with set up?
I have damaged the cross over hose and have had a number of UPD with a stone/rock sticking in the tyre Its stopped at last until I find a BIG stick? Yes it fit’s into the bleed hole at the lever and You just have to get a second bleed bolt fit the brake cylinder.
Removing the seat? why?
Pete G…
I drove to work early, with the intent to ride my 36er around for a while… it’s blowing 25mph winds here. I decided against it… I’m sitting here with it on my mind though.
It’s windy up in Northern California too. I thought about riding along the coast before work today but I was a bit nervous about getting blown over, considering how light this sucker is
No kidding. Might have to attach a leash to it so when you dismount it doesn’t float up into the higher atmosphere!
My 36er is pretty heavy, so I wasn’t worried about that. But I have a knack for creating a good deal of wind resistance… plus I am not fully comfortable on my 36er… so probably not the best day to practice. I might pull it out after my shift though, in the dark, when the winds have died down a bit.
Thanks! My former place of employment will pay for any race fees so long as I promote their facilities after the race. So the long term plan is to enter cycloscross races and XC races in my area. Gotta get in shape first though.
Built a tubeless 29" wheel for my Triton frame. I plan to use it to commute about 10 miles to school over the course of the next year on both concrete and dirt paths. Maybe I’ll include some light XC and some bike polo if I have time. Eventually I want to use it for racing, but if you’ve followed my recent posts, I’m not having much luck there.
Specs:
Impact Naomi foam and cover
Scott Wallis CF base
Thompson Elite seatpost
custom Triton 26/29 frame
Specialized S-Works Renegade tire 29x1.95
Purple Velocity Blunt SL rim
Purple DT alloy nipples
Black DT Comp spokes
Purple Deity presta valve cap
Black cromo Mad4One hub
Purple Mad4One ergal aluminum light race/road cranks 125mm (352g)
Red Twenty6 Predators with Ti axle and purple pins
Big thanks to Marco for superior customer service. Mad4One is awesome!
The fatty is done. It took my LBS 4 days to build the wheel (the spoke length was tricky), it took me 2 hours to get the damn rim tape to stay in place, and took my LBS another 3 hours to install the brake (the rotor is still untrue, but I don’t even hear the slight rubbing, so it doesn’t bother me). After all this, I took her on a ride and it was WONDERFUL. I felt like I had shocks on my uni! A review will follow, but for now, here are the specs and some pictures.
Triton Triple Muni frame 24/26/29
Deity purple seat post clamp
Scott Wallis CF base with Impact Naomi foam and cover
Surly Marge Lite 26’’ rim with Surly Light Tube and Surly Marge Lite rim tape (plus duct tape for design)
Origin8 Devist8er Ultralight Tire 26x4.0’’
DT Comp spokes, black
DT purple alloy nipples
Deity purple presta valve cap
Mad4One black CroMo hub 32H
MountainUni Brake Kit with purple chainring bolts
Twenty6 Predator Ti-axle pedals with black traction pins
Hope Tech 3 X2 disc brake, purple, front right lever
Its stopped at last until I find a BIG stick? Yes it fit’s into the bleed hole at the lever and You just have to get a second bleed bolt fit the brake cylinder.
I can’t wait to ride it on trails!! It’s all I think about at work!! Haha
