I’ve got no problems for getting steel handle bars. Wokring in a bikeshop helps me alot for my projects 
I wouldn’t have an American Classic rim on my 29er if I didn’t work there haha!
I’ll let you know if I make another one!
Customizing a Nurse Ben Grab Handle & KH Starfighter
I thought I’d share a few photos of the Nurse Ben grab handle set up on my Oracle 26. It’s pretty much the Standard Nurse Ben set up, with a few customized features – most of which were suggested by Ben, with a few “twists” added by me. 
As Ben recommended, the handle itself is a long “rotationally adjustable” bar end that I bought off E-Bay. Because it rotates, it can be aligned to project straight out and down from the saddle, in perfect alignment with the wheel and direction of travel. Once I found the right position, I used blue locktight on the adjustment bolt to keep the handle from loosening and twisting. I went ahead and swapped out the regular plastic grab handle on the saddle with a freestyle handle so I could grip the new handle close to the saddle, but you can always just saw off the grip portion of the standard handle that comes mounted to the saddle. Despite its proboscis-like profile, I have yet to get “tangled up” in the new handle during a UPD. 
A thoughtful chap at my LBS provided the idea of protecting the new handle by wrapping it with strips cut from an old inner tube, but I soon discovered that 3M Temflex Rubber Splicing Tape (2155) was a better idea. Why? It’s thicker and grippier than inner tube rubber, and it comes pre-cut in a perfect 3/4" (19mm) strip. Plus, it’s pretty inexpensive: 22 foot (6.7 m) roll is only $2.48 at Home Depot. It’s sticky on one side, but not as sticky as regular adhesive tape.
To finish the wrap and hold it in place, and also to protect the end of the handle, I simply twist on a 1" “rubber leg tip” over the end of the wrap. These caps are inexpensive too, and readily available at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. (This is probably my greatest contribution to the ever-evolving world of grab handle design. No expensive lacross stick ends for me. No modified skate wheels. No custom delrin balls. Just a big goofy rubber leg tip. Looks hideous, but works great and is cheap to replace.)
To position the brake lever closer to the handle, and further back towards the saddle, I made a brake mount out of a “repurposed” sawed-off straight aluminum bar end. It goes on the mounting post first, before the handle itself. The result: The brake lever is exactly where I want it and is very well protected by the drooped handle with attached rubber leg tip.
Like Ben, to make the Starfighter spooner less likely to take a chunk out of my leg during a UPD, and to it make it easier to grip, I cut a small piece of closed cell foam as a central insert (placed between the “wings/engines”), then covered the front two thirds of the Starfighter with insert with 3M friction tape. It’s now super easy to find and engage, and can no longer bite my legs or fingertips. 
This configuration works well for me, although I sometimes find the straight-out handle to be less than ergonomically perfect. Still it’s super solid since it incorporates a standard KH stiffener plate. And, with the brake mounted on the sawed off bar end, the lever is within easy reach and well protected during “nose dives.” 
I’m brainstorming designs for more ergonomically correct handles that would mount on the post of the Nurse Ben style stiffener plate, and will post again if I “reduce it to practice.” (That is, if I actually make one.) 
Happy trails,
UPD in Utah
Bert, yer rubber leg tip idea was awesome, and I now happily sport one on the back of my Shadow set on my new 700c climber. I have animal grips on the front that protect my bar ends pretty well, but now I have a bumper on the back to keep my seat from getting hammered.
Thanks Keifer. I’m glad you were able to incorporate my “bob tail” design on your 700c to protect your nice new saddle. That’s one sweet ride you built. Enjoy the climbs!
BTW, the bob tail not only protects the saddle from drops to the rear, but provides an ergonomically correct handle for pushing your uni up steep hills. Of course you’ll probably never understand that feature since you’ll be riding up all those hills! 
But for us mere mortals…
Just to add to this, a way to make those ends last longer is to put a washer inside that is just bigger than the end of your grab handle. The main way those caps fail is that the (relatively thin and sharp) tube gets driven through the rubber cap. A washer in the end solves that and your end should last a long time.
Good suggestion, since I don’t use an end plug in the handle so I can fold the tag end of the wrapped Temflex inside it.
The rounded rubber tips used on women’s lacrosse sticks work great and they are grippy, I buy mine at Dick’s Sporting Goods, they come in red, green, and black.
For grip tape, I use 3M rubberized cloth tape, it’s also for electrical work, like splicing tape it provides some grip, but because it has a cloth backing it is less prone to cutting.
Splicing tape can get funky in warm weather…
For a more ergonomic grab handle, what I have done is buy a “cruiser” bike bar, then cut pieces from it to get a flatter profile with more handle before the curve. These pieces then slip onto the adjustable bar end mount. Just make sure the bar is the right ID through it’s entire length.
The 3M Temflex splicing tape on my handle hasn’t gotten the slightest bit funky in Utah’s heat. It’s grippy, but it’s not like my gloves stick to it, and it doesn’t leave any residue on my gloves or the handle when unwrapped. Maybe it’s a humidity thing.
What’s a “cruiser” bike bar? 
Here’s what I was envisioning for a more ergo handle:
I’ve been thinking about that ergo/triangular handle a bit more. I’m OK with the big pointy bit at the front, but am wondering about the issue of knee strikes on the corners back by the seat. That could be painful. Thoughts on that?
On a 36er I wouldn’t worry about it. Actually, it seems to me that on pretty much any uni you should have the seat high enough not to hit those with your knees. People don’t have problems hitting their knees on the saddle bumper.
Loose an inch in width!
The photos below show the new configuration of the Shadow Handle on my O29. (Guess where I got the idea of for ergo/triangular handle depicted in my prior post?)
With a standard width straight T-bar shortened in length and mounted on the Shadow Mount so it sat close to the saddle I was having problems with the bottoms of my gripped hands bumping my thighs while pedaling. One way to reduce that problem would be to have the T-bar extended further outward, or to use the bent bar in the upturned configuration. However, I used such a (extended, upturned) configuration in the past, and I often got tangled up with it during UPDs, which resulted in some nice bruises on my thighs. 
After getting bruised one too many times I figured locating the handle closer to the seat would reduce the problem. As a bonus I really like having the grips closer and lower so that my arms are straighter when grabbing the handlebar in a relaxed position. This also makes it easier to pull up hard on the handle when I need to, since I’m starting with almost straight arms, as opposed to starting with bent arms. It also facilitates resting with straight arms on the handles while riding the smooth stuff.
The solution to reducing thigh bump (as others have noted) was to trim of both ends of the T to make a narrower handle that is less in the way – both while pedaling, and during a UPD.
Using a hacksaw and a Park Tools Saw Guide I cut about 1/2" (12.5 mm) off each end of the T, reducing the overall width from the original 6 3/8" (160 mm) to 5 3/8" (135 mm).
Now I barely notice bumping my hands on my thighs while pedaling (and only when I hold the very bottom of the bar ends on the outside ends of the T). Moreover, I have yet to get tangled up in this reconfigured handle during a UPD. 
Which is why I want to fabricate a triangular/ergo (“Christmas Tree”) grab handle for my Nurse Ben mounting plate on the O26. Time to go see what goodies I can find at the Bike Collective that can be used to make my new grab handle. 
Hey guys,
is it just personal preference to have a hand brake to assist in descends? how often do you guys use the hand brakes? I am contemplating a nimbus 29er soon and wondering if i should get a hand brake on it now or order it stock and add later as my skills get better.
doug
I would add it later. It’s not about being a better rider. A good handlebar is helpful though. Also, if you are going with Maggie’s you can pick up a reconditioned used set much cheaper from Bryce’s on this forum. There are other brake options you may consider if you are a bit of a DIY’er.
Needing a brake depends on a lot. If you are running really short cranks you may want a brake. If you are on long descents you may want a brake. A heavy wheel could also be a candidate. I don’t usually use my brake, but when I do I’m glad I have it.
(Looks like jtrops beat me to it, but here’s my $0.02 to add to it.)
Hi Doug,
If you do a “Tag Search” for “brakes” you’ll find lots of threads discussing the questions you raise. See, for instance:
Basically, if you are new to riding you’re probably better off waiting to get brakes on your 29er. When I started riding muni I rode my N24 for a couple of years before I felt I really might be able to make use of a brake. Maybe you are at this point now too. Like you, I started using a brake once I started riding a larger wheel (KH29). 
Like many others, I started out with refurbished Magura rim brakes that I bought from Brycer :D, after I bought the uni. (Check out Brycer’s current selection in this thread: Magura Green Frog limited edition HS33 brakes, new and used)
Brakes really only come in handy when you are riding very steep descents on trails, or long steep descents on roads. On trails they allow for greater control by slowing things down and evening out the power cycle of the pedals. On long descents on both roads & trails brakes give your leg muscles and knees a brake from having to keep substantial pressure on your pedals throughout the pedal cycle, particularly during the up-stroke, when the pedals are coming up behind you. :o
Of course, if you are shopping for 29ers now and can afford one with a disk brake, it will be there for the times when you need it in the future. That is, unless the brake lever gets demolished by a rock during a UPD before you are ready to use it. This is another reason brakes aren’t recommended for brand new riders – the more UPDs one has, the more likely the brakes will be destroyed during one of them. Better to ride without brakes until the UPD frequency is reduced.
I hope this helps. You’ll find many more opinions in the other threads devoted to this very topic.
Happy trails,
UPD in Utah
This is how I replaced the T part of my KH T-bar.
I sometimes hit my tights in an UPD with a T-bar (making it narrower helped much, but not fully) and I had not enough grip for jumping.
I looked at some turtle-like constructions where you have a grip and brake on the straight part of T-bar and then a T part (Custom Grab Handles, post what you got!). But then I decided that I prefer to have my brake accessible most of the time, so I would not use the T part that much.
I decided to take a regular bike handlebar and cut it as it’s curvature looked promising. It feels nice in place and first impression is good but for one thing. I would prefer it directed more to the left, which means I would need to take the other side of the handlebar. I will probably get another one and try. Also after first ride I don’t feel the problem of having just one hand rest. I’m putting the other hand over the first one and it seems comfortable enough for my non-muni rides.
Nice idea with the bike handlebar! Is there a reason you keep the plastic bumper on?
Hi Vookash,
Great idea of using half an old handlebar in your KH T-handle mount.
If you’d like to move the grip closer to the seatpost and closer to your center of gravity for better hopping strength, it’s pretty easy to cut off the handle part of a grab handle. The photos below show the result with my ghetto flat saddle mounted on a T7 seat base, but if you imagine the same saddle outfitted with a KH T-handle, you get the idea.
Alternatively, you can replace the standard grab handle with a freestyle handle (which is made without the handle).
I find being able to grip more closely to the seatpost to have distinct advantages for the control needed during MUni, and for hopping, while gripping farther away feels better for XC and especially road riding.
I guess every configuration has it’s advantages and which one is best depends on the type of riding you are doing.
Happy trails,
UPD in Utah
I was looking first for old handlebars that are 22,2 size as KH T-bar, but they are hard to get. Then it turned out that most handlebars have 22,2 on sides, just the middle is 25,4 or 30something. So it is easy material to get.
And for bumper. I was thinking about replacing it to freestyle one, but I have none at the moment, so I kept it as it was.
This mod of the KH bar, although sloppily done, solves the aforementioned problemas (at least for me):
Trimmed crosspiece prevents knee strikes.
Trimmed crosspiece prevents upd entanglements.
Front section allows for non-fiddly grabbing of bar anywhere in any orientation.
Front section allows for two-hand riding with many hand positions to rest hands.
Front section allows you to pull straight up (not slightly left/right)
Front section wrap protects brake handle and bars when upd.
It’s amazing to me that each of the three stock handlebar options has at least one major design flaw:
KH- bar attaches to seat, but seat flexes. Plus two handles prevent you from pulling straight up.
Coker – bar attaches to seatpost (good, doesn’t flex) but wide bars cause knee strikes
Nimbus – fiddly mechanism, requires loctite, compromises seatpost connection.
The ONE4ALL Unicon Handle
Only 100g
You can mount the Brake under the saddle handle or in front of the saddle handle
https://www.einradshop.ch/einrad-kaufen-schweiz/einradsattel/1731-one4all-unicon-handle.html
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