I realize that it is an american product but I would think that they would build stuff to international standards just like the bike industry. We like to think of ourselves as separate but the unicycle industry is really a subset of the bicycle industry. I have yet to come across a modern bike part that is imperial.
My old tools fit my new Coker BIG ONE.
By the way, did you know that the 2 standard seat post sizes, while we measure them in millimeters, are actually exactly 7/8 inch and 1 inch?
I knew 25.4 was an inch 
… not the 7/8 inch tho.
I take it your old tools are imperial, Wheel Rider?
All of my American bikes use/have used metric sizing for most of their bolts.
My Surly uni uses all metric stuff, bar the usual pedal threads, etc.
My Straitline (Canadian?) pedals use imperial sized pins. What’s up with that?
Though the Coker tires are probably made in America the rest of the cycles, with possibly one or two exceptions are probably made in Asia like most of the vast majority of the world’s bike parts. They will tend to be metric.
I am sure you will be happy to know that you will not have to purchase any new tools.
seat post clamp = 5mm
seat nuts = 10mm
hub nuts = 14mm
pedal wrench = 15mm
The new Coker BIG ONE comes with a multi-tool, a 5mm hex wrench and a hex wrench for the pedal pins. The instructions say the cranks are already installed but mine were not so you may still need your own 14mm socket to install the cranks.
I have not installed the pedal pins. The pedals have built-in pins on one side and the other side, where the adjustable pins go, is flat. So far, I am riding only with the flat side of the pedals.
After doing all those drops yesterday on my 36er, I must’ve done one too many because I bent either the cranks or the pedal spindles. At least the hub is fine and the wheel still true, and cranks are cheap! 
Hi Terry (or anyone else who knows the answer),
Speaking of cranks, what kind of hubs are the cranks compatible with? … other than Coker hubs, of course. 
Thanks,
Aaron
Any square taper will fit.
looks like a nice ride, I wheel walked my coker for 9 pushes before falling off today. It’s almost easier to do on a coker than a 20" unicycle except for the fact that the TA tire gets really slick with small amounts of dust, dirt or water…
That is quite an assumption John. Don’t you think it would say on the tyre “made in America” if it was?
Tyre sizes are often not metric.
Roger
Anyone in Australia have advice onm getting a coker in Australia?
so i finally got to ride my coker its the old big one i bought used. i went for about a 2mile ride didnt jump or do anything like that cause im not that good, and when i got back i noticed my rim was bent alittle. nothing major i was just kind of upset cause i just payed 25 bucks to have it trued. is this a common problem or am i doing something wrong? and if it is a common problem what upgrades can i do to fix it? also if i leave it alone will it affect my ridding? any answers would be greatly aprecated
learn how to true a wheel.
anyone with a qu-ax 36" in the united states: where did you get it from? and how much are they?
id perfer for it to just not bend. ill upgrade what ever i have to if this is possiable because im lazy
Hey guys, I could use a little advice.
So, I currently have a 29er set up for road ridding with a BA tire, T7, 114mm cranks. I have a blast on this thing. The only time I think I would like a knobby tire, is for snow ridding. Other than that I don’t need to be taking this thing in the woods. I would rather ride tech muni on a smaller wheel.
I am thinking that it is about time I upgrade to a bigger road wheel. I have a few problems with making the jump.
1. I live in “the Hills” of New England. It is anything but flat over here. I find downhills much easier with short cranks and a brake, but the uphills can put some serious pressure on my knees. Nothing that hurts, and I can usually push through it, but I am worried jumping up a wheel size will prove to be a problem.
I like ridding with 114s over something like 125s. To me, my legs have to make uncomfortable circles with 125s or bigger. So How unrealistic are 114s on a 36er in a hilly area? I am a street rider, 23 years old, and in pretty good shape. Leg strength, I think, is pretty darn good. So, it will have more to do with physics then personal ability.
There is a good chance that early 2009 I will be moving to a more urban area, like Boston MA. I know I hear a lot how a 36 is not as maneuverable as a 29er… of course. But how much will this effect a good rider with lots of leg strength?
2. As I just mentioned I am a street rider. Most of my interest goes to street riding. With that said I still very much enjoy going out an cruising on a big wheel. However I do/will not give it the hours and usage most other big wheelers put in. So spending a bunch of money on something I may or may not get a lot of use out of is also an issue.
My options are…
A.Ditch the 29er and get a real road uni.
B.Buy a cheap 36er and upgrade if and as needed.
C.Save up for a Geared hub to throw in my 29er.
D. Save up buy a nice 36er and keep the 29er set up for hilly, snowy, or high traffic rides.
A&B being the most reasonable choices they are the most likely.
Thanks,
-Sam