A SERIOUS 24 inch Muni/Trials

I am looking to order/build a 24 inch Muni/Trials

This is what is important to me.

  1. I want the pedals to be really close together so there is minimal “slop”

  2. minimal weight

  3. and maximum tire capacity. i am looking to go as big as 3.0-3.7 tire. (24X3.0)

I am ok with spending money.

Please help me as to which unicycle I should build up from frame/axle or buy outright. Telling me weights, specs etc. would be a big help.

Please email me

or you can even call me
1 (559) 859 3287


For the pedals to be close together, this measurement is called Q-Factor. I’m not sure which crankset has the least Q-Factor.

A Kris Holm 24" will probably be the lightest, and can be upgraded with even lighter components such as a carbon fibre seatbase/grips and a Thomson seatpost. The unicycle alone will run about $450-550, depending on where you get it, and the carbon fibre/Thomson upgrades will be another $300 or so.

A Large Marge rim with a Surly Conundrum frame (I think that’s the model) can hold up to a 3.7 inch Endomorph tire, but those frames are steel, and the rim is huge and heavy.

Take a look at these cranks:


Looks like he (accidentally?) created two of the same thread. This one’s getting more replies so I’ll copy my (long) post from the other one here as well:

Welcome back Joseph! He says he’s back after a six-year hiatus. He was the winner of the first Long Jump competition we ever had at the USA convention (1999) and used to attend the earlier California MUni Weekends.

By his description it looks like he’s more interested in custom building than buying “off the shelf” though I don’t know if he’s looked at the cycles that are on the market now. Here are some answers to some of the questions he emailed to me, that I hadn’t gotten back to him on:

  1. So you think 9 feet is the record? thats a good jump. flat ground?

There’s a video on the forums of a guy doing a jump of reportedly 9’, 8", over a gap. That’s not official, but it’s farther than whatever the official competition record is.

  1. “Hotter”, you mean unicycling was more popular right?

Unicycling, especially in the area of Trials and Street riding, has gotten enormously more popular in the last few years. There’s a lot more competition for you today, which explains why you actually have several brands of very good unicycles to choose from, without having to go custom unless you want to.

  1. I want to jump down stairs and do some stuff that requires some speed like the long jump. Basically get up to par with these riders now but in my own style, skill and flow. Also, I feel unstable on a 20 incher.

If your focus will be on tricks and jumpy-type stuff, 20" is what most people are using. 24" (or larger) for riding trails, which can include lots of crazy stuff as well, but in the world of straight Trials and Street, everybody’s on a 20". But that of course is up to you. Click around the forums, especially the video forum, to see what people are showing off.

  1. SO where are all the specs on these unicycles? like weight, slop, and tire size.

www.unicycle.uk.com has a page that compares all the splined hubs, and another page that compares only the ISIS-standard ones. Beyond that, your best bet is to try to figure out what components you want to use, then get the specs for those specific ones.

  1. you mentioned Qu-ax, Koxx? whats that?

Those are brands. Koxx is sold in the US through Renegade Juggling. Qu-ax products are available through UDC and elsewhere.

  1. Do you know which uni has the largest tire?

Tires are made by tire companies. Currently they still top out at 3" (I think), though we’ve been waiting a few years for a super-wide Large Marge, which I believe will be closer to 4". The Surly Conundrum was designed to fit this tire, but the tire’s still not on the market yet…

  1. why do the hunters and the dm unicycles cost more? what is better so that people are willing to spend more than twice as much?

They’re not necessarily better, they’re older. They paved the way for later generations of factory-made (I’m not going to say mass-produced at this point) unicycles that are just as strong. DM, Hunter and Wilder frames are hand made, by people who live in places with a high cost of living. The KH frames are factory-made in Taiwan, but they were designed by Kris Holm himself so I trust their strength and quality. Notice how UDC says “only two left” on the DMs? That’s because they haven’t ordered any new ones in years, and are hoping some collectors will take a liking to those last ones. They’ve been surpassed by cheaper unicycles that are arguably better, or at least equal in quality.

I still recommend the KH MUni for now, unless you’re completely set on having something custom made. Then I’d start by researching the hub and tire, and then contacting Rick Hunter as a great framebuilder.

Note: In the post above I was able to put in the correct link to the UDC UK’s splined hub comparison chart.

Here’s a picture of the prototype Endomorph tire I had the opportunity to try a couple of years ago. The sidewall says it’s 26 x 4.0 though that may not be the size of whatever finally comes on the market. The thing rode like a dream through sand and over large gravel. The sand, which was almost impassible on a “regular” MUni, was pretty easy. The large gravel, which was hard work on the MUni was like riding down a sidewalk. I went as fast as I could and the thing just rolled right over it.

Naturally, as your tire gets wider it’s going to get heavier as well. 3" tires already carry a weight penalty, so if lightness is your primary concern you do not want the fattest tire you can find. If you want to ride and land really hard, you’ll have to move strength up the priority list.

If you go custom, it’s also a good idea to put an even greater emphasis on strength, because custom designs, being untested, are more likely to have problems with breakage. This is even more true if they’re made out of relatively brittle materials, like aluminum.

minimum weight and big fat tire is not possible together I think.
Follow onelesscar and get the 24" KH and customize it a bit.
You will get a dream unicycle !!!

No, stay away from those cranks, I’ve only heard terrible things about them. First of all they aren’t splined so forget using them with a strong hub and second I’ve been told they bend relatively easily for the price. I support the decision of going with a KH and customizing as necessary.

if u want no flop get koxx isis cranks. they have no qfactor. Plus they are very tough. KH cranks are great but do have qfactor so arent straihgt.

But also keep in mind that doing muni, some people bash their ankles a lot if there’s no Q-Factor.

I find my moments fine for trials, but I think I suck

And here are my comments again:

The Santa Barbara (SB) guys have ridden the 26X3.7" Endomorph and I believe their opinion was that it’s overkill for downhill Muni. They complained that it was too springy. I have heard that it is good in sand and snow.

I think the exsessive springyness comes from the sidewalls being too thin for Muni. I’ve thought about the idea of taking a worn tire then cutting off the bead, center portion of the tread and shaving it down so the entire outside is smoooooth. Then glue each of these two halves to each inner side of the Endomorph. I read about this being done for early downhill mountain b*kes before tires w/ properly thick sidewalls were available. It had the desired result (more damp, less springy, and fewer pinch flats) but a bit heavy. I’m not sure how many frames will fit this tire. Of course the Surely will fit, but I have seen one on a Hunter style 29er frame Tholub’s

The best muni frame and best off the shelf Muni: a Kris Holm - super strong, THE lightest, and has Magura brake mounts.

Ideal hard core Muni (from what I’ve read, mostly the SB guys):
KH 24 frame
Large Marge rim
Moment hub w/ 165 cranks (or possibly longer if you can find them in ISIS)
Thompson seat post
Scott Wallice carbon fiber (cf) seat base and high tech air seat
cf bumper and handle
Nokian Gazzaloddi 24X3 tire
heavy duty tube
Magura brake
Wallis cf break leaver extender

On crank length: I think you can go too long. I have 170’s on my DX and I find it hard to pedal smoothly, so spinning isn’t really possible and it’s hard to maintain momentum going up hills and over bumbs. I tried 165’s and at just 5 mm shorter it made a huge difference in being able to spin and keep my momentum.

I have a 26x3.7" Endomorph (the actual measurement is 3.72"). It’s pretty amazing on sand, much better than a 3.0" Gazz. (A 3.0" Gazz is still pretty much useless on sand that’s not downhill or at least flat; the Endomorph can ride it even if it’s uphill).

I don’t think it’s a very good MUni tire; it fights you too much, and as noted, it has really thin sidewalls. But it’s worth noting, it’s actually lighter than the Gazz.

Does anybody have any comments on my “stiffening” idea?

I think it would probably work, insofar as it will make the tire sidewall stiffer. I don’t think it would be enough to turn the Endomorph into a good MUni tire.

Actually, a couple corrections. The KH Muni is $575 at UDC, making your range a bit off on the high side. And the Surly Large Marge rim is “huge” as you say, at least compared to the standard drilled KH rim at 48mm, vs 65mm for the LM. The weight difference is minimal though, so just saying it’s “heavy” is a bit erroneous.

I dropped my '07 KH muni off at Cynergy Cycles earlier today to have them replace the standard drilled KH rim for my new LM rim. I held both bare rims in either hand and could not feel any appreciable difference in weight!

Is the LM heavier than the KH drilled rim? Probably, but the difference is not significant. Especially when you upgrade (as I have) to a SW CF base w/Thompson seatpost and DG handle. Losing the stock solid plastic seat base, the steel rail adapter and plastic handle and bumper, will cut a substantial amount of weight from the uni, as well as improving performance.

With these upgrades, my whole uni (including the LM rim) will weigh significantly less than a stock KH muni.

PS: The surly conundrum frame IS a joke IMO and crazy heavy. Totally impractical for serious muni, as well as that endomorph tire; pure overkill! Again, IMO. :slight_smile:

Well if you only get the SW seatbase. If you get the whole seat it’s like $375 + $90 for the post.

From the link below, you can add up all the items and prices that go into a complete saddle setup. It’s not cheap, but high end gear usually isn’t! :slight_smile:

That’s more than i thought. $425-575. Unless you go the minumum and put on a KH plastic handle and bumper, then it’d be $360. I know the handle will fit, but will the bumper? Or would you need a Miyata style bumper?

Miyata style yes, or Scott can sell you some extenders that will allow you to use the KH rear bumper. I’ve always wanted the DG handle though, and after riding a few Munis that had one, I was hooked!

Hey Terry, if you’re gonna get all nit-picky about my numbers…at least get it right. The KH rim is 675g, while the LM is 1152 g, making the LM nearly double the weight…you call this minimal? for rotating weight especially?

Another thing to keep in mind is that you can’t (performance-wise) make up for more rotating weight by shaving off non-rotating weight. Though the overall weight is the same, the way the weight is distributed is much more functionally important. Now don’t get me wrong, I know the LM is a great rim, but I’m also saying that is extra weight is not “insignificant”.

Lastly, I’m not sure why the upper bound on my estimate for a KH matters…especially only $25 (I think that falls within the range of my “about” qualifier). If they can get it for around $450 anyway, why does the upper bound matter? Please think a little next time before telling me that my quick estimate was 4.5% off…keep in mind also that he did mention money wasn’t a big issue. I was simply trying to give an idea of scale.