Wheelbuilding - experience of a novice who didn't want to read a book

On a side note, I thought that the Clown Shoe and the Brorher Darryl rims had a double drilling (64 holes total) to enable a symmetric build (32 holes by picking alternatively from each side) or asymmetric by using all the holes on the same side…

Glad you got good at wheel building. It is a game of patience and attention to details.

1 Like

Oh, I did not realize that. Thanks for the tip @Siddhartha_Valmont.

I found a picture showing a Clown Shoe laced the way you’re suggesting. The disc is on the side where the ‘free’ holes in the rim are (like the picture shows).

I’m wondering if this will affect the strength of the wheel, and if so does it matter?

Will I be able to rebuild my wheel using the old spokes? I tried to make a drawing. I’m thinking that the spokes on both sides have to be sligthly longer, but the longest spokes will now be on the disc side. Am I right? Whether the spokes will actually fit or not, I won’t find out before I try.

(Explanation to the drawing: I want to move the hub to the right, but the way the wheel is laced now I can’t because the the spokes (grey diagonal line) on the disc side are almost straight. If i move the disc side spokes to the holes on the other side of the rim, I can get it centered in the frame)

1 Like

I’ve rebuilt my Clownshoe wheel and laced it the way discussed in my previous post. I swapped the spokes from one side to the other and they seem to be long enough. The spokes on the disc side are now the longest. The spoke tension according to the Parktool tension meter are 21/24 (disc/no disc side). The wheel is now perfectly centered in the frame.

It does look a little weird though, and I have no idea whether this is a good wheel or not. Will it affect riding or strength having alle the spokes on one side of the rim? It would be nice to hear from others who has experience with a 100mm rim.



2 Likes

I personal haven’t read about this. I’m new to wheel building myself. But surely this will put more stress on the rim where there is no spokes. It also looks like it has been laced 2crossed from the photos again 3cross will be stronger for this

It’s laced in a 3 cross pattern. I haven’t tried it yet, so time will show I guess.

Very curious to see how this pans out. It looks cool and weird. I don’t understand how you have not tried it yet though. When did you lace this up. Surely you should have taken it outside for a test run the second you were done!

I bulit the wheel on Sunday and it’s been pretty cold since then. Not too cold for you I know, but I have not been tempted to go out

Come on it is not that cold. Look how happy I look from my ride today! :laughing:

SOOO Happy!

EDIT: In all seriousness, I am not sure why I look like that. I was actually having a great time. Perhaps this image from the day before better reflects my actual mood.

4 Likes

I knew you would object to my statement about cold weather, so I included the words ‘Not too cold for you’ in my post. Still I get ‘frostet beard pics’. My very serious wheelbuilding thread is full of nonsense now :rofl:

2 Likes

Have you ridden it yet? I imagine it would have no side to side strength and the non supported side would flex.

2 Likes

No, not yet. I’m most worried about it not going straight. I’ll report back

The best way to test gradually would be to start with the max pressure (should be around 1 or 2 bars) to get the feel of the rim and tyre. And once you have your reference, you start dropping the pressure and see how the tire structure behaves and where is the threshold where you no longer like it :wink:

1 Like

I rode the Hatchet with the Clownshoe/Dillinger 5 for 23 km yesterday. Mostly bike paths and gravel roads all covered with snow - nothing technical. I started out with 27 psi and gradually reduced tire pressure along the way. I got some problems with the tire pressure guage, so I’m not sure how low the pressure got by the time I got home. I got a reading that said 13 psi, but I really don’t know. After 20 km when I got out of the woods and back on the pavement I thought I could feel some camber, but I can’t say if it had something to do with the way the wheel is built.

So far things seems good, and I’ll continue to use this wheel.

3 Likes

/me checks Strava… … …

image

Ok, it is legit! :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

1 Like

While riding I was thinking about how nice it is that ‘they’ don’t use salt (to melt the snow) on the bike paths where I live (just south of Oslo city limit). In Oslo ‘they’ use a lot of salt, and it occurred to me that I have snow under my wheel, whereas @ruari only has snow in his beard.

1 Like

Indeed when I cycle in town and it is heavily salted I do indeed encounter lots of icy slush and I hate that. Snow is fun, slush is not. If I do not have a mudguard mounted (and sometimes I remove it because it is annoying when I don’t need it) this cold slush gets on my legs, makes them wet and cold and leaves white stains after the water dries up later and just leaves behind the salt.

1 Like

Just puzzling over an aspect of disc wheel builds that cropped up in a video series I’ve been watching.

Firstly I scan this thread and saw this post:

Now I’m not saying this is the same thing as detailed in the video but I wondered if it related or wasn’t related so am including it here.

The video from RyanBuildsWheels at 22:00 time index shows how you should lace the Non-Drive Side (which I think is the side with the rotor on in this clip) with the spokes going in the opposite direction to the more conventional normal pattern you’d see for inbound spokes.

It’s curious as I checked many of my other unicycle wheels as I think they’ve not been built this way - granted in the video at the beginning Ryan does say that you can build each wheel type either way, but I did wonder if building this way for an inboard disc hub would be advisable or no?

Perhaps for a unicycle wheel it is more important to build the other way as the braking forces are just so minimal you’d benefit more from the first pattern.

I also can’t quite put my finger on what the disc specific pattern is called, - I think asymmetrical but when you Google that it tends to focus in on builds with an asymmetrical rim, not lacing pattern.

Anyway - a disc wheel build is due in this house hold soon so I want to square away points of knowledge or clear up puzzlements now so I’m set for the WHEELY FUN day ahead :star_struck::pray:

1 Like