My latest ride
Friday night, Lane Cove National Park down the back of North Epping. 3 water crossings encountered and btw, I’m fairly new to muni.
looking good there
so I decided I’m going to change the 127 cranks on the 32 to 140 and ride with them for a while, I’m just too close to out of control on the 127’s and don’t feel I can excel until I get more control of it. I found a couple new places to ride that have decent inclines I can ride. one of them is probably a mile or longer of constant incline before it levels back out. this will be good practice for me to use in my training for the century ride this year. I know I can’t do the 100 miles but I really want to be ready to do the 37 mile section. I wanted to try it last year but I just wasn’t ready. this year I have 7 months to train and get ready
In 7 months you can definitely be ready 
Last year I participated in a charity event and in 7 months time we got a group of 32 people ready to uni-climb two mountains in the Vosges Region of France.
Most of these people could not even ride a unicycle at the start of the project!
You obviously know how to ride so if you can find the time to train you could even work your way up to the 100 miles.
32 riders, now that’s cool
I’m going to be putting a lot of effort into getting ready for this event. but with working full time and having an active home life my idea of dedicated training might be others idea of casual riding. but I’m determined to make it happen
If you want more effective training in a shorter time, go for shorter cranks instead of longer. With the longer cranks you are more likely to just cruise along with not much training benefit. A few months ago I switched to 109mm on my 36er and can tell the difference in training effectiveness. Up to 12% grades don’t seem to be a problem.
I haven’t been cleaning my main winter, unicycle (a 26" basic Nimbus Muni from 2009) because I am super lazy. And when I say, “haven’t been cleaning”, I mean… never. Not once…
Unsurprisingly (with the salt and grit used on the roads in the winter) the seat post is now rusted completely solid in the frame. Being able to adjust seat height is important to me because I run different cranks lengths from time to time in the winter, depending on conditions (i.e. amounts of snow). I have not had to do that much this year because the super mild winter means there is hardly ever any snow but certainly last year (and I hope again in the future), it is really handy thing to be able to do. I suspect the lack of my moving the seat post has also contributed somewhat to ending up in this situation.
Anyway, I have tried brute force (including with a hammer!) and with oil and WD40 but no joy so far. I kind of feel stupid letting it get to this state to be honest and perhaps I may still separate it but if not, then a new frame I suppose…
I can see that an near identical Nimbus CrMo frame from UDC Germany is €39/$43/¤391(NOK). Probably a better deal for a CrMo frame is however, is the more expensive URC “Medium” frame (€79/$87/¤792). I own a URC “Small” frame already on my 24" and can say that while the Nimbus frame seems a little more solidly built, for my usage this does not matter much. It is more interesting frame to me as the URC frames accommodate wider tyres (4" wide for a 26" wheelset) and hence that would increase my tyre options for winter. This is also enough gap vertically on the Medium frame to allow for a 27.5x3.5 or 29x2.50, if I ever decided to buy (or build) another wheelset.
Or… I could of course go all out and spend a whole bunch more and get mad4one equivalent to the URC frame. Being aluminium it should be rust free, offers a massive range of colour options, while accommodating wider tyres (and bigger wheelsets) but… maybe that is just an overkill and hence a waste of money. I know I am not the kind of rider who would really use such a frame to its full potential, nor am I likely to in the future if I am honest with myself.
Ok, took off the seat, inverted the frame, then hammered the underside of the seat post while I held the frame. Took a while but eventually I got it off!
glad to see you got it out. put a little anti-seize on the post when you put it back, that should stop it from doing that again
OK so here is what happened, I swapped the cranks back to the 140’s
I went out for a ride around my neighborhood, it’s a decent 5 mile loop with a few different types of riding, all road but not all smooth, couple small grades and speed bumps
anywho after 1 lap I was back at the house putting the 127 back on. I have to say it didn’t give me the difference in control I had thought it might and it slowed me down more than expected. So it looks like I’m going to stick with the 127’s after all.
Put shorter cranks on, maybe 110’s or 117’s it will force you to improve your ability on that uni. Then put your 127’s back on and you’ll have a heap more control with that setup than before because the shorter cranks forces you to have better balance.
Or… you know… just keep the 110 or 117s 
I’m pretty sure at some point I might be ready for 110 or so, I mean I have worked my way to the 127, but I think for now I’ll just stick with what I have, get a good grip on them then look at going shorter if I feel it will be a benefit for me. the 32 is still very new to me, it is big and heavy even compared to my 29. my main goal is to get very comfortable and be able to average about 10 MPH. I’m close to the speed part now but still not a stable as I think I should be and still can’t maintain my speed for very long at a time. but I like the idea of when I have to slow down I’m still going as fast as I can on the 29 
So even though I separated the frame from the seat post… I umm… decided to buy an extra URC Medium frame anyway… because… … … It is nice to have options in the future? 
Oh dear, I think there is something wrong with me. Whatever my illness, I guess I am not alone, judging by how many unis the regulars here own.
I’ve already started a pedal collection…
Chief
I took my 26" Muni down to the park today, and logged a uni ride on Strava for the 1st time ever. I classed it as “inline skating”, so as not to pollute my b*ke stats. 1.67 km total, and v-e-r-y s-l-o-w. (4.0 km/h avg, max 10.0 km/h).
I’m still not at all at home on the uni, arms waving a lot, not holding the saddle very much. I haven’t done very much mileage in the 10 months since I got my 1st uni, so progress is slow. (This is about 5th visit to this park, otherwise practise is mostly mounting, attempting to hop and idle at home). I did feel a lot happier at the end of the session, practising turns on a bit of hard dirt. I’m definitely on the plateau ElPuebloUNIdo described a while back, but still having fun.
You don’t necessarily keep your hands on the seat so early in your unicycling. You can start out by keeping one or both hands on your chest, then at least you can sit up.
You don’t necessarily keep your hands on the seat so early in your unicycling. You can start out by keeping one or both hands on your chest, then at least you can sit upright.
Ok, it arrived already (super quick!), so I figured what the hell and went ahead and mounted it on the 26” Nimbus wheelset (and put the previous frame in my backpack).
I like the red, the colour pops nicely. This is pleasing because I also considered pink for a bit of fun and backed out at the last minute. Had the red been dull I would definitely have regretted not going pink
And yes my hair and beard need some work. Looking all kinds of crazy there!
Red like the nose of a clown.
What does this frame have that other frames don’t have? I would never think of buying additional frames. Every (nearly) additional part I want for a unicycle, comes as a whole unicycle, so I never have to move parts around. Next uni will be an orange muni 24", coz I don’t have orange yet.