Just get 137s because you want to do trials. You are still able to ride miles on it, and do any street trick too.
I always just buy the longest post, and cut it down to what fits.
I keep hearing the term splined uni, what exactly does that mean?
I am about 5’8", and the 300mm post works perfect for me. Just to be safe you should get the 300mm post then cut it down if you need to. I don’t think the 125mm cranks would be a problem for doing trials. From what I understand the only advantage of longer cranks is being able to balance better because you have a wider stance. Which Because of your height I think you will have a wide enough stance(I’ve tried my friends 20" torker lx that has 125mm cranks and it didn’t seem like my stance was narrow) I watched your video and it looks like your about the same skill level as me.
The thing I’m bumbed about is I took up unicycling on a whim about 3 years ago, learned it in 3 days, and thought I mastered it. The only tricks I knew of where one-footed riding and shoelace walk. Then, to my astonishment, BAM! my head exploded with all of this awesome trials, street, flat and other totally new sections of unicycling and a hujungous amount of new and awesome tricks. So in reality, I guess I am a beginner, but I am so excited to get an actual trials unicycle. Get this, for a time, I thought the Torker LX was “the best unicycle on the market!”
Oh ya, I guess I’m not really anywhere near how good you are now that I think of it.
It’s been a while since I have done this
Post a link I saved to a dusty thread I had in a desktop folder. Something about how I bought my KH20 from AEB last spring for 363 $
Ah yes, here it is.
Read this my fine young man. Ignore the drivel, such as posted by myself in my youth, and instead focus on the posts of the great Kris H himself, and also Cullen from AEB.
Rumor has it, that should you be able to both read and email, a KH may be yours shortly for a price only Santa can beat.
Rumors price is…
Hey everyone,
I finally figured out how to find unicycle.com USA and I was wondering if you think buying this would be from a reliable source?
Thats where I bought mine from:)
mine too
one clarification of some false information.
the NIMBUS ISIS will NOT be as strong (all around) as the quax. the rim on the qu-ax will be better… and it is possible that the frame and seatpost on the quax are better.
I recently posted this under another topic but thought I might as well post it under my own.
My dad doesn’t want to see me buy a Nimbus ISIS 19" because he thinks that I just need a fatter tire on my Torker LX 24." I tried to tell him that what I’m planning on doing involves a lot of stress and will break either the rim/hub/cranks.
I also tried to tell him that getting the new ISIS will be a huge advance from my LX because it is very strong not to mention MADE for trials. I also told him that it has splined technology, although I’m not to sure what that means myself, and that the cranks on the Nimbus are much stronger and will have bigger opporunities for upgrades in the future due to the ISIS hub.
Anyways, what I’m trying to get at is this…
They are the ones who make the Nimbus, of course its a reliable source. 
I’m not sure about the seatpost but I disagree on the frame. I think the Nimbus frame is better - lower clearance and machined bearing clamps wohoo. I never knew how nice machined bearing caps were until I got the Nimbus, the bolt for the bearing cap screws right into the frame, you don’t have to worry about trying to hold the locking nut on and the bolt and machined bearing cap will be much more resistant to damage during crank grabs and grinding.
Have you shown him videos of people doing big drops on splined unis so he knows what exactly they can hold up to?
Or start doing a lot of 5sets and start to break your hub, cranks, or rim, and then be like, “Told you a fatter tire wouldnt of made a difference. A splined uni would of never broke from something so small as that.”
I remember my mom wasnt too sure that I needed to get a splined unicycle, so I showed her how easily it is to break a cotterless unicycle if I started to do things I do now on my splined unicycles, and the chances of me getting hurt would increase if I keept progressing on a inferior unicycle. I also showed here some Kris Holm videos and clips from Defect and she realised that stuff I wanted to do wouldnt work on the cotterless unicycle I had. So I finally got to order it through her card.
If she said no, I was paying with my money anyways, and would of just sent a money order (which so many kids forget about using that option) and would of had to wait a week or two longer, which is fine.
better than money order, just get a visa gift card from the bank. then you put the exact amount of money you need on the card and just use it like a regular card when ordering.
If there was an option between 36 spoke and 48 spoke, why would you want 36 spoke if 48 spoke is stronger. In other words, what makes you so keen on the 36 spoke?
way more upgrade options for a 36 hole…im not sayin ones better than the other but ill be honest, iva got a 48 hole now and if that nimbus wheelset is onsale for 80 bucks again ima pick it up
36 is enough. 48 is overkill IMO.
What I am going to be buying
Here is, in order, the list of things I’ll be buying (some maybe not, we’ll see)
1)Nimbus Trials ISIS
2) Primo Viking Seatpost Clamp
3)Kris Holm Moment 137 cranks (depending on how fast standard ISIS cranks break)
One question,
If my max upward bounce height with my Torker LX (with maxxis hookworm 24x2.5 tire)
is 12 inches, about (I know you can’t tell me exact) will my upward bounce be on the Nimbus?
probably only 16 inches…it really depends…when you first get it probably only 4 inches more (the difference between a 20" and a 24" but once you get used to it itle prolly be alot easier…)