Now, where did I put my Throwing Spanner?
I went to Stonehenge last year when coming back from a friend’s house in Winchester. I hadn’t realised exactly where it was until I zoomed past it on the A303 at about fifty metres distance. I decided to visit on the way back as I’d never been before.
I returned the next day on the most beautiful evening, the cloudless sky glowing red with the setting sun. If there ever was the perfect atmosphere to see the stones, that must have been it.
My enthusiasm waned as my wallet emptied because it wasn’t cheap to get in; for the price of Stonehenge you could go round York or Durham cathedrals twice, or Salisbury cathedral once and get a truly massive ice-cream afterwards.
A tunnel leads under the road to the field with the stones in. The path heads towards the stones but then curves away, leaving you to admire them from a distance. I believe you can get close to them if you go on the solstice, but from behind the rope the power and massiveness of the stones just wasn’t there; they looked impressively heavy, the stones on top must have taken some getting up there and the circle was very precise, but any sense of scale and mystery was destroyed by the distance. The large numbers of people and the traffic zooming noisily by on the main road didn’t help either.
I ambled round hoping that a combination of light and perspective would suddenly bring the stones vividly to life, but it never came. I got back in the car and drove home.
Two weeks later I had reason to visit Salisbury, about seven miles south of Stonehenge, and went to see the cathedral. Now that was impressive. Standing at the western end looking up at the massive but intricate roof stretching away in to the distance left me utterly speechless, which Stonehenge never quite managed to achieve.
Stonehenge seems to be on the itinerary of every tour of Britain but it comes pretty low down on my list of favourite places here. I’m a sucker for cathedrals, but I believe for good reason; I once said to a Japanese friend who travels around the UK a lot that if she could go to one of the greater British cathedrals and not emerge feeling moved I’d get in the car right there and then to take her to another one. I haven’t had to yet.
Ah, there’s my spanner; it seems to have got stuck in all these works…
Phil