I don’t think I’ve heard any any 36ers being tacoed since the days of the original single-walled steel coker rim. A primary reason for using extra wide hubs with 36ers is to reduce wheel flex which is less of a problem when you replace rim brakes with disk brakes.
…so, these wheels are definitely weaker, but I think there’s a good chance that they’re still more than adequate for their intended use. But yeah, with any new product, we won’t really know until they’re tested by the masses.
“better” has to do with what set of compromises you’re more comfortable with, and both these designs are compromises. For road riding and even 36er MUni, I think I’d go with the Nimbus design (disk inside the frame, use any ISIS cranks you want, but reduced wheel strength.
For real MUni, where wheel strength is paramount, Mountainuni is the obvious choice.
Thanks for the picture of the crown. I was disappointed there wasn’t a better shot of it available on the websites.
Does the narrow hub spacing make a positive difference while riding?
Thanks for posting the frame picture, Niko!
From pictures on the UDC it looked like the seatpost tube dropped all the way through the crown and was welded on the bottom as well as the top, but after you posted that picture it doesn’t look like it goes all the way through. Does anyone know how the crown is constructed? Is the seatpost tube just welded to the top of the crown? What’s the bead on the bottom for?
My previous freestyle unicycle also had a narrow hub, so I can’t directly compare it (and my trials uni is too different). But I’d say that it’s an advantage, just one more nice little detail.
It looks like the seatpost tube indeed drops through the crown and ends at the lower welds. These smaller welds are present on both sides. I think I also saw an inner reinforcement tube in the frame section (maybe only the reinforcement tube sticks through?).
niko can you please post a pic of the full uni please?
thanks
Sure, here it is. There are some component changes compared to the standard Eclipse:
Note that there are also pictures available at municycle.com (and here).
Eclipse vs Primo Wall
Just got my Eclipse today, it feels light as a feather compared to my old POS!
I stuck a 2.10" Primo Wall on it to see if it would clear… turns out there’s just barely not enough clearance. Looking at the crown, I think that some material could be filed/sanded off the bottom to get enough clearance, but I’ll stick with the stock Kenda tire for now.
Overall an awesome unicycle. Mind the bearing caps though; they look symmetrical (as in they don’t care which side is in or out), but they fit better one way than the other.
I guess this means that the production frames don’t exactly meet the specs provided by Roger? Or he used some very strange tires for the original measurement. I can’t imagine that the rim is the cause of this. 
Anyway, I’m looking forward to finally do some more riding on the Eclipse after being sick for the last week.
For the eclipse, have you considered putting a shim in the top half of the bearing holders to add a little more clearance?
I thought about that. But wouldn’t the shim have to be specially shaped? (getting thinner towards the ends) So one can’t just use a half ring. I guess it would also put more stress on the bearing, like on the older frames with a gap between the two halves. It also seems that one has to raise the clearance by several mm, which is probably too much for a shim anyway (it might exceed the depth of the bearing holder).
Just a quick update on my experience with the Eclipse freestyle wheelset: After a few hours of riding it developed a loud creaking noise when pressure was put on the pedals (and the wheel deformed noticeably). The wheel also came slightly out of true. So I now brought it to a high-end wheel builder to fix it up. 
I hope that this is just a problem with the original wheel built. It might also turn out that the rim is just not strong enough. In that case I’ll invest some more to have it completely rebuild. Note that my previous wheel set didn’t require any maintenance for about two years (it has 48 spokes).
At this point I wouldn’t recommend this wheel. On the other hand I still like the frame, hub and cranks 
(though I really miss my 2.1" tire).
P.S. Just to be fair: I think with the relatively cheap price of the Eclipse it is probably impossible to offer a high-end wheel. For some people that might be good enough. On the other hand my recommendation would be to invest the extra money to complement the Eclipse hub with a nice high-end rim and a professional wheel built.
eclipse rim
Hei
I’ve been using the koxx signature for the last 2 years but a few days ago the frame broked… so i’m using the old steel heavy one.
So, i’m about to buy the nimbus Eclipse. I need light weight for manipulation and jumps and also strength on the wheel set ( and frame off course )… I wouldn’t like that happens the same to the frame as my signature, and definately not the same as your wheel niko…
What rim you think is better to fit the eclipse hub, for light weight and super resistance.
Too bad the 2.1 tires don’t fit on it…
Tkx
I’m not an expert, but the Odyssey Hazard rim is quite popular in the BMX world and it is supposed to be quite strong.
It’s probably a little early to tell how robust the other Eclipse components are, so there is some risk involved (which I knowingly accepted when I bought it). The frame crown is very nicely built and in my unqualified opinion the design is superior to the Signature frame. The hub is incredibly light, but is nicely built as well.
