Almost every landing I’ve seen had some angle to it. Even the ones where they landed “streight”, the angle was like 5-15 degrees. Thats all it takes over time.
It would be great if it could be tested by a machine to find out what design works best, but I don’t see how it could generate the stresses in the same way a rider does and all the different riding styles. The best I think we can hope for is a machine that would very specific forces in a several specific directions to a series of designs, and all taken on a test run w/ the same rider testing all designs. Then retest them to find how stressed/worn those areas are. Find the design that elliminates all the week spots, and produce that frame. All that may be too expensive for our small sport though, and just go w/ trial and error.
True, it would be hard to get the frames much lighter. I think a substantial amount of weight could be saved in the hub and other areas, but that would be VERY expensive to produce these in low quantities, frames are easier.
Edit: Isn’t the KH 20 frame something like 1.2 lbs?
Once you have a good 3D model and have a rough idea about the forces you could put it in a FEA program. The forces don’t have to be accurate but the direction does. If you put say 5 times the force on the frame but in the correct dirrection it will give you a pretty colourfull picture showing the high stress/weak points (weak points are weak points, no matter what the magnitude of the force is).
This is how i designed my BC plates. I put holes in all the low stress areas to cut down on weight. They will yeild (bend and not bend back) once you have ~80kg of downward force on one plate. I also used the FEA program to see how much the plates would flex downward and angled them up (like evan’s plates) to compensate.
What was it made out of before you joked it into carbon and Ti? In other words, there isn’t much one can comment on the design unless we know what it’s to be made out of, and how those parts are to be attached to each other.
Looks like you’re going for something like the Pichler Solo - Here but with a different bearing cap arrangement - one nice feature of the pichler crown is that it is machined so that there is a lip for the fork legs & seat tube to sit up against - this means that its easy to align the the fork legs so that the hub sits square in the bearings and also its harder for the legs to slip under load or if the bolts should come loose - I’ll post some pictures of mine later if that helps
i know it would not be good for some people, but at least it would be abit original, + i really want a long neck trials frame
and a frame will never be good for everyone…
I agree with the idea of making it a long neck, because it wouldn’t really be that hard to cut down short. The cut may not be as pretty, but it can easily be covered up with the right clamp.
Well there’s only so much you can do to make a frame look different from the others. The only way to add creativity is to change the connection between all of the tubes. A square tube frame might make it look a little more interesting, but round tubes are more appealing to me in terms of style. I think this one looks different enough from the other frames out there.
I really like the connection on the Koxx-One XTP frame, except it isn’t very good for street/freestyle. I would like to see a beefy CNC machined connection piece but made better for street.
for you to design something to be comercialized you should think if its possible to produce it in a large scale. that crown you made... have you think about if its possible to make those radius out of… what? tubes? do you know the material youre talking about? wouldnt it be week because it`s made of so many pieces? you could always make a mold to produce that in one piece… but it costs a lot… would someone bet in this project?
there are a lots of points to think about before you go sketching stuff up on maya…
How much will that cost with machine time and materials? Then how much would the whole frame cost with the tubes and everything?
Also, to make it a little bit better for street, you might want to add little ridges on top of the tubes to grip onto your feet a little better. Not really necessary though, I like it plain on top.
