I thought I read on the UK page that it’s DH. So no correction needed there.
But maybe you should add what brakes are included?
Say hi to Josh! 
Good point… no mention about the brake! I have updated it. Thanks for that.
Roger
Please bring one to mayhem!
i take it with the clerance on that frame it will take a 29 ?
It does! looks like the Oregon and Impulse hubs may fit your Nightrider frames. I have one of those, and I’m thinking of retrofitting an internal disc brake onto it. If that works out, perhaps retrofit kits may be made available on UDC! Like the impulse, the Oregon is a very cool rig!
I like the idea of adding a larger, or a custom rotor to the Impulse or Oregon for more power or a personalized look, it’s good to see it is standardized! Nicely Done.
So would your bearing holder mount work for disks on the inside of the nightrider frame? I could see myself upgrading mine too, then.
This has not been tried yet. it would be easiest to just get an Oregon or Impulse Unicycle from UDC. However, if you have a Nightrider and are not currently considering an Impulse, what you propose is likely the case using the hub for the impulse or Oregon to upgrade your Nightrider to an Impulse with an additional part called the UCM.
Josh told me that the Oregon’s were spec’d with the XC rim, but the first batch were “sent” from the factory with the DH rim. He said that he ordered some XC rims (5?) and will swap them out on a first come basis. I got the XC rim on mine.
The Oregon frame is based on the disc brake 36er frame, BUT I don’t know what changes were made dimensionally, but if you all can wait, I’ll post the dimensions when mine arrives in a few days 
The Oregon should be substantially lighter than a Conundrum, ESP the one at Terry posted a pic of, which had the DH rim, Profile hub, heavy cranks, etc…
I’m going to see if an Avid BB 7 will fit, cuz I really prefer a good mechanical brake for durability and maintenance ease.
Great thread! Well on its way to providing a very complete set of information about the Oregon including weights, dimensions and a load of opinions!
In a word, floatation. I seem to remember the same question being asked back when Bruce Bundy and Dave Poznanter started using 3" tires. The answer then was ‘flotation, flotation flotation.’ 
The downside is big bounce. I imagine some playing around with tire pressure can make it better suited to whatever trail you happen to be on, but too much pressure makes it ride like a rotating trampoline. Though even that can be fun.
I got to ride it with Josh on the trail at the Vancouver MUni Weekend, for a mile or more. It was really fun the way that thing eats terrain. Like the step-up from smaller tires to 3" downhill tires that many of us did about 10 years ago, it makes nearly any given terrain easier to ride on.
I think the idea was to spec it simply and let people upgrade, either when ordering or later on. This keeps the initial price from being even higher.
Uh oh, somebody talk MuniOrBust out of buying one of these before it’s too late!
But just because it’s not for you doesn’t mean it’s not for someone else. Even posers. The “Hummer bar” has just been raised. Some will buy it because it has the biggest tire, and for no other reason. No worries, every sale helps support the development and improvement of future models and designs!
All this talk of weight, while helpful to the overall thread, is kind of missing the point. If you’re after light, you won’t be riding this. However non-heavy it may be, the rotating mass is not going to be minimal if it’s to be a strong wheel. It’s going to tend to feel heavier than a skinnier wheel of similar diameter. The question then is, is it worth it to you for the ride the massive floatation brings?
Using that thing for XC would be a waste. Unless maybe if it’s really bumpy XC. The purpose of that wheel is to eat bumps. I bet it’s really great on rough, rocky descents (with the pressure dialed, that is).
Here’s a picture of the prototype we got to try at MUni Weekend last year.
Just for Thought
I would think that such a monster would also have at least the 27.2 mm seat post.
If you ride in a lot of mud sand or snow it would probably be an ideal uni. Otherwise even on very technical rocky terrain. The 3" wheel is more than enough. I even get good traction in scree and sand with the 3" Duro and Arrow wide bite.
Maneuverability would probably suck.
Damn it, I want it, I want it, I want so baaaad! But it won’t replace any of my current rides, I guess. Time to build a stable for my collection.
To the first, sounds about right. Though I’m sure there are different riding experiences to have on such a wide tire on the rocky stuff. My favorite thing about 4" tires was my experience the first time I rode one, at Moab way back in 2004 or so. Somebody had a prototype there with Large Marge rim and a super-wide tire. I rode it through an area of fine sand, and it crossed it like plain dirt. Also I cruised it down an area of large, round gravel that was pretty annoying to ride on with a 3" tire. It flew over it like it was a sidewalk.
Maneuverability probably suffers, due to the basic largeness of the tread and the bigger area it takes up. While maneuverability is probably lessened in stuff you can ride with a 3", it would be much improved in the harder-to-ride stuff, like pure sand. You would be able to turn!
definitly no! I am riding this LM / endo / larry combination since three years now.
-It is excellent for rough terrain with low / medium pressure
- it is excellent rolling for XC medium / high pressure, much better than all other downhill tires even of half of this dimension
- it is realy slippery in wet conditions for downhill etc. then I am riding 3" gaaza.
rim:
I would recomand the DH rim cause its extrem stabil.
I changed to LM after crashing several KH and Koxx rims after one day - three month. the last three years I hadn´t any rim damage…
I think I’m getting one. Now I wonder if the crank length of 165mm would be a little too long. What do you think? I think I might prefer something in between 150mm and 165mm but there are no Ventures in that size.
I’m also wondering if I should try the Impact seat instead of the usual KH ones.
Any opinions on that for muni use?
I never tried it on long muni rides but the seat base is not as strong as the one on the original kh seat.
I started riding my Surly Conundrum/Larry with 165’s, but I wasn’t able to climb as well as I had when I was riding a 26 x 3 (Duro) with 165’s, so I bumped up to 170’s on Josh’s advice and it made a world of difference.
I tend to like longer cranks for climbing and downhill. The Oregon is spec’d with the new Venture 165’s, I’d go with those and see what you think. The only 160’s are Koxx street cranks, which are ISIS and work fine. I couldn’t see doing 150’s, but I’m sure someone will try 
The Larry can get bouncy at speed when running low pressure, but varying tire pressure can alleviate this problem. I generally run 10psi, but have run it higher (12-14psi) which makes it really fast! I think Bryce and Tirving run higher pressures…
I don’t think the Oregon is designed for XC, BUT my son and I have ridden our Conundrum/Larry on 8-10 miles jaunts and don’t feel that it’s too much uni except on the flats. For climbing, the Larry is a beast; I say that in a good way
Weight does matter when you’re spinning a super fat tire and rim, so I’d go with a lighter tube, lighter tire, and lighter tim.
Mine arrives tomorrow
Anyone have theirs yet?
sweet ben! i wana see it so bad!
Mine should be coming in the next couple of days too.
Maaaan you guys are soo lucky…Wanna see pics and a review as soon as you get it. 